DIY Headers, also HR manifolds on a DE
Here's the link. I didn't feel like copying the whole thing over to this site.
This is proof that HR manifolds or headers will work on a DE motor. You just have to mount the manifold studs on the center pipes in their alternate locations. If you decide to do this for whatever reason, you will need HR test pipes or cats.
http://members.***.net/lawson370/350z_005.htm
This is proof that HR manifolds or headers will work on a DE motor. You just have to mount the manifold studs on the center pipes in their alternate locations. If you decide to do this for whatever reason, you will need HR test pipes or cats.
http://members.***.net/lawson370/350z_005.htm
here's the link. I didn't feel like copying the whole thing over to this site.
This is proof that hr manifolds or headers will work on a de motor. You just have to mount the manifold studs on the center pipes in their alternate locations. If you decide to do this for whatever reason, you will need hr test pipes or cats.
http://members.***.net/lawson370/350z_005.htm
This is proof that hr manifolds or headers will work on a de motor. You just have to mount the manifold studs on the center pipes in their alternate locations. If you decide to do this for whatever reason, you will need hr test pipes or cats.
http://members.***.net/lawson370/350z_005.htm
I was hoping to see some dyno results myself, but I ran into some snags. I should have added an aftermarket Y pipe before doing the swap. Then I could have gotten before and after dynos that are meaningful. As it is I ordered the Y pipe after swapping the headers because I saw how it was choking my system. To make things worse, I am getting some cams installed, and my fu#%ing Y pipe is still backordered! I will have to wait to get the $%^#$%&%* Y pipe before I can even tune the car for cams now.
All I know is this- without a 2.5" inlet Y pipe, there is no point in getting headers. By the time I have the Y pipe, I will have installed so much stuff that any meaningful dyno comparison to the car before doing the headers will be worthless. Motordyne is working on the Y pipes, but they are hopelessly behind schedule.
I didn't feel any gain or see any increased airflow from my W/B, mainly because of the whole Y pipe thing. Increasing the size of the header outlet has no effect if the exhaust is still corked up.
All I know is this- without a 2.5" inlet Y pipe, there is no point in getting headers. By the time I have the Y pipe, I will have installed so much stuff that any meaningful dyno comparison to the car before doing the headers will be worthless. Motordyne is working on the Y pipes, but they are hopelessly behind schedule.
I didn't feel any gain or see any increased airflow from my W/B, mainly because of the whole Y pipe thing. Increasing the size of the header outlet has no effect if the exhaust is still corked up.
Last edited by 12AutoX; Aug 8, 2010 at 11:07 AM.
thought of an idea that'll make the swap cheaper...
*remove your DE headers
*cut off the "header to cat flanges" off the DE headers
*cut off the "header to cat flanges" off the HR headers
*make sure DE flanges fit snugly on HR headers [fitment test]
*bolt DE flanges to your DE cats w/gaskets installed
*install HR headers
*install exhaust and cats
*weld the bolted DE flanges to the HR headers
and now you have converted your HR headers to work with your DE exhaust and cats
*remove your DE headers
*cut off the "header to cat flanges" off the DE headers
*cut off the "header to cat flanges" off the HR headers
*make sure DE flanges fit snugly on HR headers [fitment test]
*bolt DE flanges to your DE cats w/gaskets installed
*install HR headers
*install exhaust and cats
*weld the bolted DE flanges to the HR headers
and now you have converted your HR headers to work with your DE exhaust and cats
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here is the thing. the header install on a Z is such a pain in the ***, i would make sure the effort is worth it. in that case im gonna at the very least buy a set of used headers that are proven.
If you can get a set of HR headers for dirt cheap (less than $100), in total everything should run about $300-400 after install. If the install price is right, the power to cost ratio should be justifiable, I'd say.
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