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DIY- How to install CAMS and Valve-springs

Old 02-28-2015, 11:53 AM
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thekyledeg
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Thumbs up DIY- How to install CAMS and Valve-springs

This was from my NA build thread, i figured it could be of some use in here also so here yall go..Alright, boys and girls.. ladies and gents. The end all be all.. just kidding... im not good at making DIY's, spelling, or grammars so this probably wont be great and I move pretty quick while Im working also so when i stop to take pictures they may be bad quality and yeah im a shitbag.

Couple things first.

1. Make sure you have the proper tools, please. Before you start anything, the very first thing you need to do is try and bust the crank pulley bolt loose cause if all you have is a 3 foot breaker and you've already taken off your upper/ lower intake, valve covers, pulleys, alternator, power steering pump, lower oil pan, radiator and whatever else and you cant break that loose with what you have available to you; you just wasted 4-8 hours of your time. Just to give you guys an idea my crank pulley has claimed a 1/2" to 3/8 adaptor and 1-19mm impact socket.Those didn't work so I had to use a 5/8" impact cranked to 150psi to break mine loose, Im sure not everyone has access to that kinda firepower. Moral of the story make sure you have the right tools, and don't ever ****ing use red locktight on a crank pulley bolt.

2. When you split the timing cover, make sure you have a paint pen to make your own markings with... Im not sure how my motor ran with what i was looking at but somehow it did (it didnt look right) and i was confused as ****. Im going to put it back the way the FSM states (if possible) or i will resort to going back to my markings.

Anyway expect to spend 12-16 hours on this if your swapping valve springs out too. Thats a no-**** from the time you pull in to the time you pull out estimate.

Disclaimer: If you **** your **** up, suck it up im not going to do anything about it cause I aint liable for it.


STEP ONE

Remove Cold air intake (you dont need pictures for this)

Remove Upper intake plenum, Vaccum hoses/Coolant Lines for throttle Body(underside)

Unbolt (6) Bolts in Middle of lower plenum and (2) outer bolts and remove Vaccum lines.

****I took the time here to port match to my gaskets cause it was atrocious, up to you for the free horsepower



rounding out the holes to match the gaskets



smothing out the casting in the runners

*****


Un-clip intake cam solenoids

Un-Bolt all six Coil-Packs

Un-Clip Air Conditioning Compressor electrical connection (its close to your MAF sensor on the main wiring loom)



Un-bolt all brackets and zip ties holding wiring harness to the motor

Now at this point there should be nothing connected to the wiring harness and you should be able to flip it back and put it out of the way at the base of the windshield.

Remove spark plugs.

Remove valve-covers (10) bolts on each I believe, Remove Vaccum Lines attaching them.

All done with the top for now.

STEP TWO

Drain Oil

Drain Coolant

Detach Lower Rad-Hose

Un-Plug radiator fans (2) plugs



Remove Lower oil Pan bolts, slide seal cutter in there cause that SOB is not coming off without some motivation. Remove the (2) or (TWO) FORWARD MOST BOLTS.


Remove Upper Rad Hose

Remove Over-flow tank

Remove (2) screws bolting radiator fans to radiator (top corners of radiator fan mount brackets)

***EDIT: IF YOU HAVE A/C and really need the condensor and radiator out of the way to get an impact on the crank pulley or for whatever reason or you just want to know; the correct action is this:
OR:A/c delete?
FINE, I get it, you don't have a racecor... but in that case why are you in this thread?

Buy these and figure out they don't work, they are supposed to be to release the QD fittings on our ac lines that are located along the drivers frame-rail.




You clip them on to the ac QD area and slide them into the fitting and it unlocks them, vent the R134 to the atmosphere because racecar and lets keep moving.
***EDIT:

Pull out radiator fans THEN

Pull out radiator and condensor

STEP THREE
If you didn't already disconnect your battery you failed this DIY before you started it.

Loosen Crank pulley *****/bolt (synonymous)

Loosen the four bolts on the idler pulley

Remove Idler pulley

Remove three bolts holding Idler Pulley on

Remove Bolts holding Belt tensioner On

Spin power steering Pulley to expose 14mm Bolt that holds it on its bracket;
Unbolt it, and loosen two bolts holding power steering bracket to side of motor (sorry no pic)

Remove Alternator bracket.

STEP FOUR
Remove ALL bolts that are NOT a 10mm BOLT from the front cover, There should be NONE left, if there are. Well, adapt and overcome and make it look like the rest and take it out.

Remove all 10mm Bolts holding front cover onto motor, double, even triple check because when you start prying you don't want to have accidentally left a bolt in and split your front cover in half. Bad ****ing day.

Start Prying. Theres some spots where your supposed to but i do my own thing, figure it out. Slide the seal cutter in- between all the way around and pry pry pry it took about 30 min for me to get mine off just for a reference.




Once **** starts poppin off, time to move on to the timing components.

STEP FIVE


Make your new marks, doesnt matter where cause if you put it back together exactly where your new marks are and they all line up, guess what? its gonna work.

Take a minute to stare, and ask yourself why you didn't just buy a turbo.. then you realized.. the same reason you don't do steroids.

Take off the Main tensioner first. I couldn't figure out the little roller thingy so I just unbolted it and let the oil out and it let the slack out, un-bolted it and there goes the chain with some slack.



main tensioner

Take off Main Tensioner Guide, The huge long guide to the left of the timing chain. Uses a hex nut near the bottom (Replace this at a minimum)

Take off the top Chain guide. (Replace this At a minimum!)

Remove Main Chain

Remove 17mm Bolts holding Intake cam gears onto intake cams. (Theres a hex on the camshafts in the valve cover area for you to stop the cam from spinning. These are pretty tight so use your gym memberships. Wiggle the Cam Gear off the camshafts now that the bolt is removed. Repeat for Other side


Remove Exhaust Gears from camshafts, Same procedure as Intake.

Remove (3 bolts) Intake Solenoids, There are then bolts under here for the half moon




Remove Front Half-Moon holding camshafts in place there are bolts coming in parallel and perpendicular to this piece. (repeat for both sides)



Remove camshaft caps a few turns at a time (KEEP IN ORDER)

Remove camshafts

Remove Camshaft Buckets (KEEP IN ORDER)

STEP FIVE
Grab your handy dandy tool from our friends at JWT (valve spring tool)
and your nylon cord. I did this by rotating the crank to BDC, feeding as much rope into the cylinder as i could and then rotating the motor till it smashes all that cord up to the combustion chamber, against the valves making sure they stay shut while we change the springs.

OR

You can just pressurize it with a leak-down tester but para-cord was free for me so.. yeah

Bolt up the tool, Lube up the threads really good, get rid of the black **** it comes with and just use a speed handle, so much faster. The valve spring changeout alone takes about 3-4 hours depending on how good you are at caressing the keepers into the valve stems. I averaged about 30 min per cylinder from the time i filled the cylinder w/ cord and bolted it up like so:




ANYWAY

Put the special bucket included with the kit that has a hole in the middle on the valve your working on.


Screw down until the keepers pop off the valve stem

Grab them with a magnet

Unscrew the valve tool

Grab the special Bucket

Pull out OEM spring Replace with JWT Spring and Shim

Put special bucket back on top and make sure the valve stem is perfectly aligned in the center, it will make your life easier when you put the keepers in and it will prevent having one jump and disappear like mine did hence why my motor now has 49 valve stem keepers

REPEAT x31

STEP SIX

Took you long enough.

Put all the buckets back in in the same orientation they came out

Place your new cams in, with some assembly lube on the contact areas. aka petroleum jelly for you nay sayers.

Put your cam caps on and hand tighten them, then start tightening each bolt two half-turns at a time in an even sequence until they are snug. After that follow the FSM for the torquing procedure. I pulled mine off All-data today and it was pretty intricate.

Time to check your clearances!! Most of yall will probably skip this, but most of the time these are also in spec. Get a feeler guage, and go look at the other page in my thread it shows you how to do it i think.

Now you can bolt your Half- Moon front cam keepers on, make sure to mimic the oem RTV that was put on it and bolt it down. Repeat (x2)

Replace the Intake Solenoids on top of the half-moons (x2)

Replace exhaust camshaft gears, replace chains aligning marks. (x2)


Replace Intake Gears, aligning marks .(x2)

Torque Intake and Exhaust Gear bolts to proper spec (x4)

Lay Main chain, aligning marks.


Replace top chain tensioner

Replace Main tensioner

Align Marks,

spin motor by hand; listen for anything funny and confirm timing and say a prayer that eveything will work

STEP SEVEN
Replace the Lower timing cover seal

Re-Lay RTV on back side of timing cover, Make sure you get the three spots in the middle.

I didn't replace the bolts in any particular order, i don't think it matters really. Theres rtv so its going to seal either way you replace the bolts. Replace all the 10mm bolts first, then the two in the lower oil pan.

STEP EIGHT
Congrats, from here out is everything you've done already. Go to step three and follow it from the bottom up and your all done!

new cams!

Last edited by thekyledeg; 02-28-2015 at 11:58 AM.
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Old 02-28-2015, 08:16 PM
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rustyschopshop
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Nice write-up, When are you heading for a tune?
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Old 03-01-2015, 04:31 AM
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thekyledeg
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Originally Posted by rustyschopshop View Post
Nice write-up, When are you heading for a tune?
never, jk.. Im gonna log some and do some e-tunes first but the closest tuner to me is about an hour away in milan... an i dont speak italian so ill probably wait till i get back to the states and get to CIN to get a tune from them and im absolutely finished to get a final tune.
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Old 01-28-2019, 06:11 AM
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This was hugely helpful for me over Christmas, just wanted to say thank you !

I posted this one too:
https://www.350z-uk.com/topic/122458...stiming-chain/
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