Losing Grip II

iTrader: (1)

flaming? me or u? i know i wasn't and people here should be able to handle some critizism (sp?) towards products on the market. anyhow, u bring up a good point. yes im sure someone could go ahead and remove the following and probably be lighter, but now you have ruined you OEM hatch which cost considerably more than the CF hatch to replace.


john

Losing Grip II

iTrader: (1)

well im watching... buy the hatch and put all your oem parts on it and see how much weight is lost... a couple pounds maybe? the majority of the weight is from the GLASS! try picking up you window from the driver or pass. side, they are heavy. as far as looks go, IMHO, a CF is TIGHT, but i think its main purpose is race. Having said that, adding a CF hatch to me, if not for purely race use, is a waste of money and a great way to ruin the Z. get it painted and thats another story. i think i remember reading somewhere that another reason for the extreme lightness of the Cf hatch is its thickness. its thin. im not sure how thin, but this would worry me in the event of a rear end collison. in that case all your doing is making it easier for someone to hit and kill you.

all in all: this part i find to be very interesting in that i would buy it to race with, remove it and install my OEM for the streets.

just thought you would all like to know different points in buying this CF hatch. yes looks cool, but how safe is it? are the weight savings really there if you decide to just bolt all your OEM parts? is it worth the dough (nothing is actually worth what it costs but as consumers we will continue to buy anything and everything for its retail price- amazing! ). after reveiwing what i have written if you still decide, "i gotta have it", buy it. whatever makes you happy is the key to living a good life. be happy thats all that matters

john

kamikaZ

iTrader: (19)

Point taken. And ya I thought about goin with a CF hatch but decided not to go for the race look and was also concerned about the durability of it. I am always in and out of my hatch and I have subs so I would worry about cracking the clear coat. The lightness would have just made up for my stereo upgrades.

Losing Grip II

iTrader: (1)

i found a good way to offset my stereo upgrade. first i lost 48lbs, next buy a smaller battery (saved about 20 or so lbs i think), last i never drive with a full tank unless im on the highway.

john

GY-Z

interesting, can any one confirm this is dry carbon instead of wet carbon?

tranzholik

i doubt this is dry...its just some wet layup

GY-Z

where do you get the 40lbs of weight saving from?
i wont conclude its dry carbon just by its weight saving though, dry carbon weighs less then wet carbon, though i doubt the difference will be huge.

Brandon@Forged

Ok, i've asked some other people. It's wet carbon. BUT, weight savings ARE around 40lbs., BUT we don't know if that includes rear window, wiper, etc. The stock hatch is not aluminum, he is pretty sure it is steel.

Brandon@Forged

To end the speculation. I emailed Seibon, we'll see what they say.

GY-Z

thats a smart thing to do, how come i didnt think of that

kamikaZ

iTrader: (19)

Hmm ya I'd like 2 lose 20 lbs...and its fine to go with a smaller battery even with all the added power drain?

GY-Z

any updates fron seibon?

Brandon@Forged

Nothing yet. I'm going to try again and use another email. I've been having a TON of problems with AOL getting all of my mail.

Brandon@Forged

Ok, I just emailed them again, we'll see if they respond this time.

GY-Z

keep us update, thanks

Brandon@Forged

Will do.

whitez

let's do a group buy

Rickdogg

iTrader: (234)

I'm getting mine tomorrow

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

there is no weight savings if you add the glass back..it is wet carbon not dry

MIDENGINE3SGTE

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