After 2 months of ownership I've already got the itch to start exterior mods. There are a lot of nice kits available for the Z, many of which are out of Japan. Those with genuine Japanese kits know the overwhelming anticipation in waiting months for your kit to arrive and also the pretty penny you pay not only for the kit but for shipping, handling and associated customs fees. I must confess that I am pretty impatient also when I'm ready to start a project. As more and more replica kits become available here in the US a lot of the above is alleviated, but you sacrafice overall quality, durability and often times fitment. I have over 11 years experience fabricating and repairing advanced composites (aviation) and fiberglass is about as basic as you can get. So to me, buying and working with a replica kit with flaws is something that I can easily work through. But most people don't wanna deal with that kind of headache. A majority of the replica kits I've seen and helped people with were mainly for the Supra, but none the less, "if it looks like a dog and barks like a dog then it is a dog".

Anyway, I wanted to just put a bug in your ear and give you a few things to consider before you decide to purchase a replica kit. Mainly because, after doing a lot of searching, the topic comes up a lot..

Why Is The Fiberglass So Wavy? - It's simple, your kit is only as good as the mold it was taken from. Well, there are other factors but this is one of the main reasons. A couple things can happen when these knock off molds are manufactured. 1)The mold simply isn't thick enough to handle a high production of parts. As with any tool being used over and over again, it will deterioate and flaws will become more and more apparent as every new piece is removed. 2)This conicides with #1. Most kits/molds are manufactured using polyester resin. Anyone who has ever used this stuff knows it can get pretty hot when catalyzed. Mix too much and apply to fiberglass, the stuff will shrink and deform. Coupled with an already thin mold, you're part will have the same outcome.. Remeber, a lot of the cost in fabricating and manufacturing body kits lies with the tooling ie. THE MOLD in which they're produced from. You can't build a house on a s**ty fondation and expect it to weather the storm, can ya??

Why Does The Fiberglass Have So Many Voids? - This has to do with the way the piece is made. Most original Japanese kits are hand laid fiberglass mat / cloth and compacted using either hand rollers or vacuum bagging. Manufactures of replica kits simply use a process of spraying chopped fiberglass strands over-saturated with resin into the mold. Once they're cured, or even before (which also leads to a warped part), the part is pulled from the mold. The simple fact that the part has not been compacted to insure all air is removed leads to voids and delamination.
On a side note, when a fiberglass part is manufactured the intial gel coat IS your part. Whatever is used underneath be it fiberglass, carbon, kevlar or ceramic, only serves as the gel coats reinforcement. Again, build a s**ty foundation and the house won't stand for long.

Why Is The Fiberglass So Thin And Brittle? - Again, kinda refer to the above explanation, mainly where I said "a process of spraying chopped fiberglass strands over-saturated with resin". When fabricating a fiberglass part the rule of thumb is usually 60% cloth/mat to 40% resin. Most of these replica kits are damn near 30% mat/chopped strand to 70% resin. I won't get into the science of composites and where their strength and duarbility are derived from, but I will tell you that a lot of their strength definetly doesn't come from the resin. Resin is a simple binder that helps evenly distribute loads throughout the composite part. Lay it on too thick and the resin will crack and flake long before the underlying fiberglass itself is affected.
Also, consider that these parts are being made with 1" strands of fiberglass loosely sprayed into a mold as opposed to a solid length of cloth or mat layed into the mold.

Issues With Painting - This mainly has to do with the quality of the materials being used. In order to pass on cheap savings to you cheap materials have to be used. Believe it or not, composites and their resins aren't created equal. Think of it like this: what'll taste better, a long island iced tea using cheap a$$ liquor or one that uses preminum brands? For those that drink, you know if you see those cheap plastic bottles of liquor you know come morning it's time. Seriously though the ingredients, or lack thereof, in some of these materials used can have a drastic effect on how hard it is to prep and paint the part and how long that paint will last without flaking off. The main reason behind possible paint failure is the lack of a proper cure. Polyester resins and gel coats, which most of these kits are produced with, does not totally cure unless it is completely protected from the air. The EXPENSIVE (key word here) resins include a wax mixed with the resin. When the resin is catalyzed and begins to heat up, the wax moves to the surface forming a barrier to protect the underlying resin from the air. The cheaper resins don't include this wax and thus have to be sprayed on by hand, which I doubt is being done. A lot of these replica kits have not been FULLY cured and after a while things will begin to surface causing your paint to weaken.

Not all replicas are bad and I have seen some very good ones. They are more expensive than the other replicas but cheaper than their original counterparts. It's really not my intention to bash replica kits but only to give a bit of insight on what you can possibly expect.. Right now, with the 350Z being fairly new, you take a gamble when purchasing a knock off. I'm sure as time goes on, like with the Supra community, better and better replicas will surface.

 

damn man, well said! this should be a sticky.

 

i used Intial D kit which is replica of Ings (more than half of the orginial cost) and happy with it. Paint prep and cost would depend on the bodyshop.

Put it this way, for the cost of orginial kit, you can buy 2 or 3 Replica kit. If replica kit mess up, get another one and you have a new face for your car. After all, we don't expect the body kit to last very long time. Same thing with paint, rock chip will happen and you will need to repaint it anyway.

 

Great info Atlsupdawg#2

 

Hey Bubble appreciate and respect your outlook. Why not spend that $$$$ you paid for the 2nd or 3rd kit and install, on "go-fast" mods. I see what you're saying about unavoidable problems when owning a vehicle but there are a lot of available solutions to avoid the problems you posted.
Trust me, every success story we hear regarding replica kits only shows a step forward in the right direction. I think all that anyone would ask for is a no BS HONEST accessment of your experince with a knock off.

 

Are you aware the INGS replica are said to fit better than the real thing. The same with Tommy Kaira and Veilside. Look how freaking expensive Tommy Kaira is when you get big fender gaps. The only reason considering buying Japanese made kits is that they are meticulous on proccess.

 

i guess it all come down to each people reference. I agree with you about cheap ebay replica stuff but other replica kit fit pretty well for a fraction of the cost. Sometime, it is not always a good idea to spend money on orginal stuff. For example, Velside 3 hood has problem with fitment while Seibon VT doesn't (i'm the living proof of that hood. ) Cost different about $200 to $300.

Respect to you for spending time come up with that review. But for people that live in the fast lane like me, i don't intend to keep bodykit for more than a year anyway.

 

REALLY good write up, thanks!!

 

Awsome write up, thx for taking the time :-)

 

Awesome post. It's nice to see a pro tell it exactly how it is.

Well, there's the 3M clear bra....

But seriously, who wants to constantly keep replacing the front bumper on their car. (considering you will be without the car for the weeks it takes to prep, install and paint a front bumper)

Just about every Ings knockoff I've seen has had fitment issues. None of the Ings products I've seen have had fitment issues at all. Claiming the knockoff fits better than the authentic parts seems just like the knock off companies claims of guaranteed fitment and handlaid "Grade A" fiberglass. There's nothing to back it, it's just unethical marketing.

I guess I should also mention all ings aero parts are offered in Hybrid Aero, lighter than fiberglass, as flexible as urethane.

 

It will be boring just to have one kit for a long time. just drop off the kit, the shop will prep, paint and call you in for installation. No need to have the car at the shop for weeks.

Just wonder if any display car for topsecret has any clear bra on?

 

The prices these "authentic" manufacturers charge is highway robbery. Charging that much for a fiberglass kit is every bit as unethical as ripping it off and selling for cheap.

Take for instance the Ings half kit... $2200 for a lip... gimme a break.

 

Thank you for your write up, it is educational, and hopefully give people something to consider before buying.


the prices i pay for a cd, or a big mac are ridiculous compared to what it costs to make it. Most market price items have a mark up of at least 100-200%. These small aero companies, have high maintence costs involved, and have a relatively small mark up from the actual costs involved (avg is 50%). Nothing wrong with a business making profit. If there is the demand, and they are unable to meet the demand at those "high" prices, then what's really wrong with charging those prices? Just because you don't feel its worth it, doesn't mean the other people on backorder for the authentic parts think the same.

 

You mean $535 for a lip?

http://www.ingsusa.com/lxsportz33.shtml

 

I know veilside calls their kits "aero Fashion" but you're taking it to a new level. Disposable aero parts?

We don't have any "display cars," we build 200+mph demo cars...