Guys i need help,

I found a body shop around my area that will roll my fenders for $50 both sides. The guy has done reputable paint work and has a small shop, but i'm worried about the job. On the other hand i'm thinking about getting it done with another fellow Z member.

My question is: What is the correct/best method to roll the fenders?
What exactly should i watch out for?
Will the paint really crack if no heat is used?
What is the worst that can happen?

 

they dont really have the machines any more..

usually they end up cracking the paint...

if they will do it for $50 per side and back up their work if they crack your paint... DO IT!

 

No, it's $50 both sides!

 

If the guy shows up holding a baseball bat you should be concerned. That is "old school" fender rolling (seriously).

BTW $50 is a great price.

 

$50 and they will stand behind their work go for it...

make sure to ask them if they crack any paint, they will fix it...

 

Old school “fender rolling” involved heating the fender, and puling out the excess metal tucked under the fender. Then a metal bar is welded to the edge to give it a round appearance. The fenders are smoothed, primed and repainted. Labor intensive and expensive.


My 260Z above with rolled fenders.

 

I have a question about cutting the fenders.

Is it a bad idea to cut / shave them? Is this a preferred method over rolling? And what are the drawbacks, if any? I would think jagged metal would be a bad thing, but I could just de-burr it with my dremel if necessary, right?

 

Sixto, here are some pics of another forum member (Alberto?) who had his fenders rolled. This might give you a good idea of how it is (or was) done. I had mine cut and it looks fine, but it looks like this might be better. Sorry the pics are so small.

Ron

 

I have been questioning this as well. I don't see how the paint would chip under this procedure, but i'm not sure anyways.

 

Thanks Ron, did you ever have trouble with the paint chipping? How exactly did you cut yours?

 

No paint chipping. Dennis @ Racing Zone did the work and mentioned something about clear coat; just not sure if it was applied before he cut. Clear coat is applied after so it won't rust. I think he used a Dremel, just not sure. Maybe call them and ask Anthony or Keith how they do it.

 

Hey bro I just got my rears trimmed at racing zone so I could fit my 285 tires on my 10.5 inch rim. All they do is trim down the inner lip in the fender. I think I paid 30 a side and he does add clear coat so theres no rust.

 

Hmm...I would just do that with my own dremmel and use touch up paint for that

I think i want to do them myself, but does anyone around my area have a fender rolling tool/device?

 

I rented the same fender rolling tool Alberto used for $50 bucks at www.rollyourfender.com . Took about 1 hour each side with the help of a friend.

 

I used a cutting wheel and an air compressor. I made perpendicular cuts every 3/4", or so, and then bent the tabs in with the rubber end of a hammer. It took like 10 minutes and all I had to do was jack up the back to clear the tire with the air tool. I did have some paint crack, but it is inside the wheel well, this was from bending the tabs without heating it up. You cannot see the chipping paint at all, unless my tire is removed and you look inside the wheel well.

 

I will have mines rolled at Discount Tire Co. for free, with the purchase of 285's in the back and 255 up front... they have the tool and will also use the heat gun..

 

I'll be getting mines cut. It provides a bit more space and Racing Zone does a very professional job. They clear coat the surface area after to prevent chipping of the paint.

Let me know how it goes Abbas.

 

Ill take a picture of how I had mine re-done...

If they cut too much, the inner fender tub will come loose from the outter fender...

I had mine rolled and pulled...

 

+1

I did mine the same way...with a friend. Took less than an hour and I have absolutely no cracks or chipping paint.

 

Did you heat up the paint Bri??