Glow Gauges
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Glow Gauges
Anyone know who still manufactures glow gauges. Given the way cars are made now adays it seems like they are a dieing breed. I am having trouble tracking some down. They would go into a 1998 nissan maxima.
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Sliding them through the needle is scary at first, but it is not bad if you can "flex" the gauge faces such that the opening can easily fit over the needle.
The tricky part is probably trying to get the faces to lay flush with the cluster so the needle does not get caught on it. Some use scotch tape or double sided tape, but it takes up too much room. I prefer some sort of silicone adhesive or spray that is not permanent (like super glue).
If your gauge cluster has 1-2 bulbs above it that lights up the front of the faces, you can remove them so you can see the faces better. It is harmeless to remove backlighting bulbs if not needed, but some will keep the needles lit.
Tap into IGN power and the other to chassis ground (any ground point that is convenient).
The reason why I would steer clear of Indiglo faces is because of it's limited life. Over time they start to get dim or die out - face or inverter dies.
I prefer LED work. It is not bad at all if you know how to use the soldering iron. If your gauge cluster has white labels during the day, and lights up "white" at night then it is possible to use LED lighting. You need some high powered Luxeon side emitters, 1W resistors, soldering tool, and a multimeter. There's no need to disassemble the entire assembly or touch the needles! Just pull out the stock backlight bulb, determine the polarity of the contacts, and solder the resistor and Luxeon. Make sure you don't over heat the thin circuit membrane and plastic.
Cost estimate: $3 for each Luxeon (the Z32 took 4, some cards take 6), and1W 100ohm resistors from Radio Shack for < $10.
Here's a pix from my dad's Z32 (bad picture):
http://members.***.net/djtonium/imag...ies/led/00.jpg
The tricky part is probably trying to get the faces to lay flush with the cluster so the needle does not get caught on it. Some use scotch tape or double sided tape, but it takes up too much room. I prefer some sort of silicone adhesive or spray that is not permanent (like super glue).
If your gauge cluster has 1-2 bulbs above it that lights up the front of the faces, you can remove them so you can see the faces better. It is harmeless to remove backlighting bulbs if not needed, but some will keep the needles lit.
Tap into IGN power and the other to chassis ground (any ground point that is convenient).
The reason why I would steer clear of Indiglo faces is because of it's limited life. Over time they start to get dim or die out - face or inverter dies.
I prefer LED work. It is not bad at all if you know how to use the soldering iron. If your gauge cluster has white labels during the day, and lights up "white" at night then it is possible to use LED lighting. You need some high powered Luxeon side emitters, 1W resistors, soldering tool, and a multimeter. There's no need to disassemble the entire assembly or touch the needles! Just pull out the stock backlight bulb, determine the polarity of the contacts, and solder the resistor and Luxeon. Make sure you don't over heat the thin circuit membrane and plastic.
Cost estimate: $3 for each Luxeon (the Z32 took 4, some cards take 6), and1W 100ohm resistors from Radio Shack for < $10.
Here's a pix from my dad's Z32 (bad picture):
http://members.***.net/djtonium/imag...ies/led/00.jpg
Last edited by DIGItonium; 04-11-2006 at 10:50 AM.
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I put indiglo gauges (from pro car parts) in my old 3 series and wouldn't recommend it. After a year they started to flicker, and becuase they are flexable, they were lifting away from the guage face in some places.
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Originally Posted by maxpowers
I put indiglo gauges (from pro car parts) in my old 3 series and wouldn't recommend it. After a year they started to flicker, and becuase they are flexable, they were lifting away from the guage face in some places.
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