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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 01:25 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Roggan
Yeah well that would be really simple, though i mean from a stock setup perspective. How much do you need to strip and from where can you reach the bolts??

/Roger
I would say that you just remove the plastic covers. If you look at this pic. You can see it has Holes in the brace.

So a long socket can fit down the hole to make adjustments.


Last edited by MIB; Apr 18, 2006 at 01:30 PM.
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 01:38 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by MIB
I would say that you just remove the plastic covers. If you look at this pic. You can see it has Holes in the brace.

So a long socket can fit down the hole to make adjustments.

Well if you are replacing the dampers you will need to do more then try and reach something down in complete darkness with a long socket, the holes that can be seen there are:
1. Not directly over the damper bolts
2. Small like hell...


Isn't there some larger access hole from the front (that you can't see from that pic?)

/Roger
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Old Apr 19, 2006 | 11:47 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by aalzuhair
What would be the difference between welding the cage to the Z stock rear strut bar opposed to welding the cage to the floor board from a technical point of view?

I would think that the Z strut bar is more ridged than the floor board.
the stock strut bar is just light sheet metal. it would only be rigid in one direction, once it bends slightly, it will crush easily. the new weld points they put on are pretty big and distibute the load pretty good. when ever possible you want to tie the suspension points together and lock them in rigid. hence the reason for using that location to mount in the rear. for handling reasons, that is what you want as the main force acting on the chassis, is coming from the suspension. again, a X brace would help abit further also, but that Z is alot safer and stronger than stock even at that point.
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Old Apr 20, 2006 | 12:54 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Roggan
Well if you are replacing the dampers you will need to do more then try and reach something down in complete darkness with a long socket, the holes that can be seen there are:
1. Not directly over the damper bolts
2. Small like hell...


Isn't there some larger access hole from the front (that you can't see from that pic?)

/Roger
I just checked the installation instruction for my KW coilovers, and luckily enough you dont have to even touch the interior in the trunk! The rear bolts are welded and comming down from the strut support itself (like pin-bolts), so the damper is fastened with 2 nuts that are removed from under the car

I was scared that the garage would have to strip parts of the trunk interior and mess something up in the process or not get everything back like it was...

/Roger
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Old Apr 21, 2006 | 10:41 AM
  #25  
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Another view...

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Old Apr 21, 2006 | 04:46 PM
  #26  
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There is no easy way to adjust the dampers without drilling your own access hole, dropping the shock off its mount, or installingTein EDFC or something similar.
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Old Apr 21, 2006 | 04:52 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by drumma022
There is no easy way to adjust the dampers without drilling your own access hole, dropping the shock off its mount, or installingTein EDFC or something similar.
Yeah... Thats the headache you get when you have adjustable dampers (like i do...) Though it could be really nice and very accessible if you drilled a small hole and attached some kind of extender to the damper adjustment screw, you could then easily put a **** or something on the top that is easily accessible from the trunk!

/Roger
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Old Apr 21, 2006 | 06:52 PM
  #28  
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Even with the EDFC you have to drill a hole in the brace for the wires to come through.
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