Custom Nav Cubby Complete, and a few other goodies..
07-26-2006, 07:45 AM
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Custom Nav Cubby Complete, and a few other goodies..
Well, the cubby is 99% complete and with work stuff coming up I don't know when I'll get another chance to share some pics. So here goes.
First, the nav cubby. I replaced my non-Nav OEM 06 flip-up door with a motorized cubby from Courtesy Nissan.
My350z.com member BPL created the microprocessor modification to the Cluster Lid Amp. It allows me to open and close the door using the door button, but in the absence of the OEM Nav "brain". He also built in an adjustable jumper which allows me to choose if I want the door to close on shut-down and then resume previous state on start-up or always start-closed.
The fitment came out very well, and I was worried about that. Somehow the door manages to be only just a hair (literally) shorter than the OEM flip-up door. The OEM flip-up has a small gap at the bottom to begin with. And the door curve is slightly different than the OEM flip-up lid. What this means is that the top 35% of the door follows the curve of the dash and the bottom 65% of the door slowly recesses to about an 1/8 of inch as it curves towards the bottom edge. And you know what? It doesn't look very bad at all. The door's alignment and top-bottom and left-right centering and fit is perfect. So the door recessing towards the bottom lip has a similar effect as the three recessed gauges just above at the top of the dash! It was a neat aesthetic accident that worked out well.
It is 99% and not 100% because a) I am going to cover the motorized assembly (the stuff you see through the top-edge of the closed door) so it stands out less. It isn't nearly this bad in "real life". It stands out a lot in the pics.
And b) I've got some flat-black vinyl I am going to use to cover the small gaps on each side where the nav cubby and the O6 upper-center console don't quite mate together. Then she will be perfect!
Inside the cubby, Lee from JR's Custom Auto built a custom gauge and switch panel which came out incredibly well. Tweeter in Frisco did the final install (around some other stereo work). The pictures absolutely do not do the work justice!
The gauge panel includes a GTech Pro RR, a USB download port for the GTech, the volume control for my Valentine 1 (mounted inside the rearview mirror), and the gain control for my sub amp. This was a neat way to get all of those little components organized.
There is also a four-switch panel running across the bottom. Switch #1 controls power to the Yaw sensor under the center console (ie. this is a "Full" VDC-off switch, as per the many VDC-off threads in this forum). Switch #2 controls power to the Gtech so it is not always on. Switches 3 and 4 are empty right now... I just wanted to build-in some upgradeability for something I may add later.
Also threw in some pics of my new Black Pearl Emblems and (finally!) the new 2006 Nismo floor mats (good for 20whp from what I hear). The emblems and the mats look great! The mats are especially nice. They are thicker and darker than OEM. I highly recommend them!
Lighting sux today (cloudy), so apologies if these aren't the best or most telling pics. If you're on the fence about getting any of these parts, PM me and I'd be happy to take more pics for you.
Cheers,
-Smoky
First, the nav cubby. I replaced my non-Nav OEM 06 flip-up door with a motorized cubby from Courtesy Nissan.
My350z.com member BPL created the microprocessor modification to the Cluster Lid Amp. It allows me to open and close the door using the door button, but in the absence of the OEM Nav "brain". He also built in an adjustable jumper which allows me to choose if I want the door to close on shut-down and then resume previous state on start-up or always start-closed.
The fitment came out very well, and I was worried about that. Somehow the door manages to be only just a hair (literally) shorter than the OEM flip-up door. The OEM flip-up has a small gap at the bottom to begin with. And the door curve is slightly different than the OEM flip-up lid. What this means is that the top 35% of the door follows the curve of the dash and the bottom 65% of the door slowly recesses to about an 1/8 of inch as it curves towards the bottom edge. And you know what? It doesn't look very bad at all. The door's alignment and top-bottom and left-right centering and fit is perfect. So the door recessing towards the bottom lip has a similar effect as the three recessed gauges just above at the top of the dash! It was a neat aesthetic accident that worked out well.
It is 99% and not 100% because a) I am going to cover the motorized assembly (the stuff you see through the top-edge of the closed door) so it stands out less. It isn't nearly this bad in "real life". It stands out a lot in the pics.
And b) I've got some flat-black vinyl I am going to use to cover the small gaps on each side where the nav cubby and the O6 upper-center console don't quite mate together. Then she will be perfect!
Inside the cubby, Lee from JR's Custom Auto built a custom gauge and switch panel which came out incredibly well. Tweeter in Frisco did the final install (around some other stereo work). The pictures absolutely do not do the work justice!
The gauge panel includes a GTech Pro RR, a USB download port for the GTech, the volume control for my Valentine 1 (mounted inside the rearview mirror), and the gain control for my sub amp. This was a neat way to get all of those little components organized.
There is also a four-switch panel running across the bottom. Switch #1 controls power to the Yaw sensor under the center console (ie. this is a "Full" VDC-off switch, as per the many VDC-off threads in this forum). Switch #2 controls power to the Gtech so it is not always on. Switches 3 and 4 are empty right now... I just wanted to build-in some upgradeability for something I may add later.
Also threw in some pics of my new Black Pearl Emblems and (finally!) the new 2006 Nismo floor mats (good for 20whp from what I hear). The emblems and the mats look great! The mats are especially nice. They are thicker and darker than OEM. I highly recommend them!
Lighting sux today (cloudy), so apologies if these aren't the best or most telling pics. If you're on the fence about getting any of these parts, PM me and I'd be happy to take more pics for you.
Cheers,
-Smoky
Last edited by SmokyTyrz; 07-26-2006 at 10:02 AM.
07-26-2006, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by SmokyTyrz
Well, the cubby is 99% complete and with work stuff coming up I don't know when I'll get another chance to share some pics. So here goes.
First, the nav cubby. I replaced my non-Nav OEM 06 flip-up door with a motorized cubby from Courtesy Nissan.
My350z.com member BPL created the microprocessor modification to the Cluster Lid Amp. It allows me to open and close the door using the door button, but in the absence of the OEM Nav "brain". He also built in an adjustable jumper which allows me to choose if I want the door to close on shut-down and then resume previous state on start-up or always start-closed.
The fitment came out very well, and I was worried about that. Somehow the door manages to be only just a hair (literally) shorter than the OEM flip-up door. The OEM flip-up has a small gap at the bottom to begin with. And the door curve is slightly different than the OEM flip-up lid. What this means is that the top 35% of the door follows the curve of the dash and the bottom 65% of the door slowly recesses to about an 1/8 of inch as it curves towards the bottom edge. And you know what? It doesn't look very bad at all. The door's alignment and top-bottom and left-right centering and fit is perfect. So the door recessing towards the bottom lip has a similar effect as the three recessed gauges just above at the top of the dash! It was a neat aesthetic accident that worked out well.
It is 99% and not 100% because a) I am going to cover the motorized assembly (the stuff you see through the top-edge of the closed door) so it stands out less. It isn't nearly this bad in "real life". It stands out a lot in the pics.
Also I've got some flat-black vinyl I am going to use to cover the small gaps on each side where the nav cubby and the O6 upper-center console don't quite mate together. Then she will be perfect!
Inside the cubby, Lee from JR's Custom Auto built a custom gauge and switch panel which came out incredibly well. Tweeter in Frisco did the final install (around some other stereo work). The pictures absolutely do not do the work justice!
The gauge panel includes a GTech Pro RR, a USB download port for the GTech, the volume control for my Valentine 1 (mounted inside the rearview mirror), and the gain control for my sub amp. This was a neat way to get all of those little components organized.
There is also a four-switch panel running across the bottom. Switch #1 controls power to the Yaw sensor under the center console (ie. this is a "Full" VDC-off switch, as per the many VDC-off threads in this forum). Switch #2 controls power to the Gtech so it is not always on. Switches 3 and 4 are empty right now... I just wanted to build-in some upgradeability for something I may add later.
Also threw in some pics of my new Black Pearl Emblems and (finally!) the new 2006 Nismo floor mats (good for 20whp from what I hear). The emblems and the mats look great! The mats are especially nice. They are thicker and darker than OEM. I highly recommend them!
Lighting sux today (cloudy), so apologies if these aren't the best or most telling pics. If you're on the fence about getting any of these parts, PM me and I'd be happy to take more pics for you.
Cheers,
-Smoky
First, the nav cubby. I replaced my non-Nav OEM 06 flip-up door with a motorized cubby from Courtesy Nissan.
My350z.com member BPL created the microprocessor modification to the Cluster Lid Amp. It allows me to open and close the door using the door button, but in the absence of the OEM Nav "brain". He also built in an adjustable jumper which allows me to choose if I want the door to close on shut-down and then resume previous state on start-up or always start-closed.
The fitment came out very well, and I was worried about that. Somehow the door manages to be only just a hair (literally) shorter than the OEM flip-up door. The OEM flip-up has a small gap at the bottom to begin with. And the door curve is slightly different than the OEM flip-up lid. What this means is that the top 35% of the door follows the curve of the dash and the bottom 65% of the door slowly recesses to about an 1/8 of inch as it curves towards the bottom edge. And you know what? It doesn't look very bad at all. The door's alignment and top-bottom and left-right centering and fit is perfect. So the door recessing towards the bottom lip has a similar effect as the three recessed gauges just above at the top of the dash! It was a neat aesthetic accident that worked out well.
It is 99% and not 100% because a) I am going to cover the motorized assembly (the stuff you see through the top-edge of the closed door) so it stands out less. It isn't nearly this bad in "real life". It stands out a lot in the pics.
Also I've got some flat-black vinyl I am going to use to cover the small gaps on each side where the nav cubby and the O6 upper-center console don't quite mate together. Then she will be perfect!
Inside the cubby, Lee from JR's Custom Auto built a custom gauge and switch panel which came out incredibly well. Tweeter in Frisco did the final install (around some other stereo work). The pictures absolutely do not do the work justice!
The gauge panel includes a GTech Pro RR, a USB download port for the GTech, the volume control for my Valentine 1 (mounted inside the rearview mirror), and the gain control for my sub amp. This was a neat way to get all of those little components organized.
There is also a four-switch panel running across the bottom. Switch #1 controls power to the Yaw sensor under the center console (ie. this is a "Full" VDC-off switch, as per the many VDC-off threads in this forum). Switch #2 controls power to the Gtech so it is not always on. Switches 3 and 4 are empty right now... I just wanted to build-in some upgradeability for something I may add later.
Also threw in some pics of my new Black Pearl Emblems and (finally!) the new 2006 Nismo floor mats (good for 20whp from what I hear). The emblems and the mats look great! The mats are especially nice. They are thicker and darker than OEM. I highly recommend them!
Lighting sux today (cloudy), so apologies if these aren't the best or most telling pics. If you're on the fence about getting any of these parts, PM me and I'd be happy to take more pics for you.
Cheers,
-Smoky
07-26-2006, 08:16 AM
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Not sure why y'all weren't able to disconnect. Maybe he's got one of those month-on month-off type jobs or something. I'm sure there is a good reason. He did seem interested in doing more work with you guys. I even referred him to the guys at KP.
07-26-2006, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Z_freak
the emblems look incredible Dave.....damn you on the Nismo mats, very nice bro.....keep it up and we may have to move your steering wheel to the other side.....
Speaking of steering wheels..you've got me pondering that damned JDM wheel man. What a PITA it would be though, every year at inspection. But it's quite sweet!
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07-26-2006, 10:04 AM
#8
Smoky looks good man. I am in the process of writing my own program for my own chip. I got tired of waiting for these guys to come out with some sort of a solution. Good job on the install! Just a couple of questions:
Any clue what voltage and current rating the nav door motor runs at? Also, is there any chance you have pics of the chip you bought from bpl?
-Acree
Any clue what voltage and current rating the nav door motor runs at? Also, is there any chance you have pics of the chip you bought from bpl?
-Acree
07-26-2006, 10:57 AM
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No clue on the voltages. And I don't have any pics on hand of the processor. I know some have been posted on this forum before though. It's just a PCB with the same footprint as the OEM Cluster Lib Amp unit. And it has a large programmable processor smack in the middle of it. Plus the transplanted port to connect the harness to the door's controller board.
If I come across those pics I'll post them. Right now I can only find pics of the motor and controller on the door.
If I come across those pics I'll post them. Right now I can only find pics of the motor and controller on the door.
07-26-2006, 11:34 AM
#10
Originally Posted by SmokyTyrz
Thx man!
Speaking of steering wheels..you've got me pondering that damned JDM wheel man. What a PITA it would be though, every year at inspection. But it's quite sweet!
Speaking of steering wheels..you've got me pondering that damned JDM wheel man. What a PITA it would be though, every year at inspection. But it's quite sweet!
I am right there with you on that one, great mod for the money, lets flip a coin and see who should order one to make sure it's the real deal...i guess wew ould have to order the spacer also right ??
07-26-2006, 11:39 AM
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Ya it would need the whole deal. I'd want to really survey the entire install process before even trying it. I might also want to investigate what would be required to relocate the cruise controls to the cupholder or something. Not a requirement, but it would be nice to keep them.
07-26-2006, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by gNaRKiLL
looks good I am in the process of doing a similar gauge setup.
Only thing I would want changed is that huge gap and the wires you can see in the nav door.
Only thing I would want changed is that huge gap and the wires you can see in the nav door.
The problem is that the screws, plug, wires, etc are all bright colors. Blacking everything out before you install everything would probably even be enough. Because in natural light (not in a picture with a flash) all you really see is two sparkles from the screws and that white plug. You have to bend down at a very awkward angle to see any wires or anything else.
I need to get a little piece of felt or something and just tuck it around those components. Or I may just black out the screws and plug and call it a day.
Definitely not a showstopper though. Trust me. It's an easy fix for a very custom project. Go for it!
07-26-2006, 12:30 PM
#16
Originally Posted by SmokyTyrz
Ya it would need the whole deal. I'd want to really survey the entire install process before even trying it. I might also want to investigate what would be required to relocate the cruise controls to the cupholder or something. Not a requirement, but it would be nice to keep them.
07-26-2006, 12:52 PM
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I think the CC wiring may be a little more ornate, and my run through an interface PCB after the wheel before it runs into the harness. Depends on how long the connection is between the wheel and the PCB before the harness, and how it connects (eg. ribbon cable = trouble).
loquitoy2k: I couldn't even tell you how much this cost. I stopped counting so I could spend more with less regret.
But I'd say the entire project probably cost $1200 to get everything installed, and that doesnt include things like the GTech, etc. But I did have pros do all the work as my first few attempts would only have rivaled the work of a 5 yr old. And that is the only reason it looks good!
loquitoy2k: I couldn't even tell you how much this cost. I stopped counting so I could spend more with less regret.
But I'd say the entire project probably cost $1200 to get everything installed, and that doesnt include things like the GTech, etc. But I did have pros do all the work as my first few attempts would only have rivaled the work of a 5 yr old. And that is the only reason it looks good!
07-27-2006, 06:29 AM
#18
Originally Posted by SmokyTyrz
I think the CC wiring may be a little more ornate, and my run through an interface PCB after the wheel before it runs into the harness. Depends on how long the connection is between the wheel and the PCB before the harness, and how it connects (eg. ribbon cable = trouble).
