Carbon Talk : Interested in learning more about Automotive CF parts?
11-03-2006, 07:37 PM
#41
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don't think we can fit those on our stock car without wider fenders... take a look at the bulges at the end of the headlight areas (both sides), it is design to go along with those wider JGTC fenders... this part is a pure dry CF part, not cheap at all!
cheers,
richie
cheers,
richie
11-24-2006, 09:04 AM
#42
Mr. ShineAutoProject:
Is this an example of the "plain weave" you discussed in this thread:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-C...spagenameZWDVW
Is this an example of the "plain weave" you discussed in this thread:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-C...spagenameZWDVW
12-28-2006, 02:25 PM
#44
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Originally Posted by Chebosto
Fiberimages uses twill weave:
hand laid 3k (?) weave, but squeegied resin, but non vacuum bagged (i've been telling them to go bagged but they don't listen)... however their stuff is relatively lighter than their competitors.. and you can jump on it! haha. they are aftermarket clear coated for shine & for uv protection.
hand laid 3k (?) weave, but squeegied resin, but non vacuum bagged (i've been telling them to go bagged but they don't listen)... however their stuff is relatively lighter than their competitors.. and you can jump on it! haha. they are aftermarket clear coated for shine & for uv protection.
02-08-2007, 06:20 AM
#45
Can I get a custom Side diffuser made In Twill weave??
It would go on my sideskirt like the Tommy Kaira version...
Thanks
CHad
The car on the left is my ride, I want something like the pic on the right of the TK sides so it will flow with my rear CWEST addons in Carbon Twill weave.
It would go on my sideskirt like the Tommy Kaira version...
Thanks
CHad
The car on the left is my ride, I want something like the pic on the right of the TK sides so it will flow with my rear CWEST addons in Carbon Twill weave.
02-08-2007, 04:53 PM
#46
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Originally Posted by 03redlineZ
Can I get a custom Side diffuser made In Twill weave??
It would go on my sideskirt like the Tommy Kaira version...
Thanks
CHad
The car on the left is my ride, I want something like the pic on the right of the TK sides so it will flow with my rear CWEST addons in Carbon Twill weave.
It would go on my sideskirt like the Tommy Kaira version...
Thanks
CHad
The car on the left is my ride, I want something like the pic on the right of the TK sides so it will flow with my rear CWEST addons in Carbon Twill weave.
05-02-2007, 12:17 PM
#49
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from what i know, pre-peg / dry carbon fiber is not suitable for hand laid or straight vacuum bagging process as the fiber and resin matrix needs to be as dense as possible to form a very flat surface. i've seen some folks purchase pre-peg and vacuum it... however the surface is not flat at all... kind of like goosebumps. that's why initial gelcoats are needed to have a nice flat surface and some room for the fibers which show "depth". for pre-peg / dry carbon, autoclaving is the only way, imho.
05-14-2007, 12:08 PM
#50
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I use to do outside contracting for the Millitary in their R&D Composite Tech.
I learned alot and honestly the only thing I can't tell you guys is some of the parts I have made. What I can say is.. almost everything from a Ships Hull to UAVs.
Pre-Preg is fun to play with and the patern is always near perfect! Also the ideal use of this material is in parts that will have to sustain huge amounts of stress, if motion is involved then Kevlar is introduced to the abrasive areas.
Try to cut Kevlar and you will understand why.
Strenght:
Carbon is 10X stonger than Steel by Weight... this is what you would learn as a basic ideal of carbons tensile strength. Once Resin is introduced and a Matrix is formed around the fibers you have created a solid.
Carbon to Resin %:
This is where most parts go way wrong!!
(50/50 or worst) Dry & Wet/ Hand Lay-up is the worst of the worst and is commonly used in the US. Maily by shops that are familar with Fiberglass, not Carbon! We are talking about more Resin (or equal amounts) to the Carbon! Material is layed or set-up, then saturated in resin. Bubbles are rolled out and resin is moved heavily into the dry areas... rarely is resin removed. This product yeilds the greatest amount of flaws!
Vacuum Molding usually produces a greater #. When done correctly a 30% Resin to 70% Material can be achieved. Ideal PSI is about 30-35.
Autoclaving is the monster of all Vacuums and produces a 15% Resin to 85% Material product. At this extreme pressure Carbon Clutch Plates and Brake Rotors are easy.
More later I know Shine Auto will chime on that!!
Peace
Drew
I learned alot and honestly the only thing I can't tell you guys is some of the parts I have made. What I can say is.. almost everything from a Ships Hull to UAVs.
Pre-Preg is fun to play with and the patern is always near perfect! Also the ideal use of this material is in parts that will have to sustain huge amounts of stress, if motion is involved then Kevlar is introduced to the abrasive areas.
Try to cut Kevlar and you will understand why.
Strenght:
Carbon is 10X stonger than Steel by Weight... this is what you would learn as a basic ideal of carbons tensile strength. Once Resin is introduced and a Matrix is formed around the fibers you have created a solid.
Carbon to Resin %:
This is where most parts go way wrong!!
(50/50 or worst) Dry & Wet/ Hand Lay-up is the worst of the worst and is commonly used in the US. Maily by shops that are familar with Fiberglass, not Carbon! We are talking about more Resin (or equal amounts) to the Carbon! Material is layed or set-up, then saturated in resin. Bubbles are rolled out and resin is moved heavily into the dry areas... rarely is resin removed. This product yeilds the greatest amount of flaws!
Vacuum Molding usually produces a greater #. When done correctly a 30% Resin to 70% Material can be achieved. Ideal PSI is about 30-35.
Autoclaving is the monster of all Vacuums and produces a 15% Resin to 85% Material product. At this extreme pressure Carbon Clutch Plates and Brake Rotors are easy.
More later I know Shine Auto will chime on that!!
Peace
Drew
06-19-2007, 07:22 PM
#53
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Love the helpful info. Couple of questions. When it comes to exterior CF parts, can they take more of hit with small road pebbles than say a plain fiberglass part can?
Do you have to use any particular type of chemical to wash or wax the part or are the chemicals too harsh on the CF.
Everyone keeps saying how much lighter CF is. I have never bought anything in CF so I can't make a direct comparison and I have never seen any stats on it. Do you know roughly how much weight you shave off by using CF. I know it depends on the part but I was wondering if there was a general percentage.
Do you have to use any particular type of chemical to wash or wax the part or are the chemicals too harsh on the CF.
Everyone keeps saying how much lighter CF is. I have never bought anything in CF so I can't make a direct comparison and I have never seen any stats on it. Do you know roughly how much weight you shave off by using CF. I know it depends on the part but I was wondering if there was a general percentage.
08-31-2007, 02:00 AM
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Excellent write up. However it doesn't seem to mention the weight saving issue between the different types of carbon fiber. I've always been under the assumption that the main PURPOSE of CF was to save weight. On top of being so sexy. But which type of CF is lighter and does it really make a difference over stock for the 350z mainly. Thx
