Oem Shift Knob Is Stuck!!!
Well with sore hands and slight beer buz I can finally say I got the stock **** off! I checked the threads and sure enough there was dust on there that looked like it was once lock tight. The stock **** looks like it went through a meat grinder, but who cares I took it off cuz it was worn in the first place. The GT **** feels a little small as I have big hands (Small feet though) but the shifting action is great.
So now that I can say that I have done succsefully I will move on to installing my own FI kit
NOT!!
So now that I can say that I have done succsefully I will move on to installing my own FI kit
NOT!!
Originally Posted by SmokyTyrz
Ok guys... everyone calm down. Nothing to see here...
Seriously..this is not a big deal. We had a horrendous shift **** install on a friend's car at a meet a couple months ago. Here's how it is handled...
Before I start let me say I am not advocating this as proper process. But instead as a how-to in case the worst does happen during a **** install...
First, do not panic if you have spun the lever out of the linkage. You can thread it right back in plenty enough to bring the car to the dealer or whoever afterwards to finish the job underneath with the proper torque specs.
The reason you cannot get the **** off is because in some years/models Nissan decided to use some serious lock-tite/jb weld/epoxy thread lock-like substance between the METAL inner shift **** piece and the METAL threaded lever.
Put the shifter into neutral to make things ez on yourself (make sure e-brak is secure). Go ahead and spin the lever out of the linkage. Once you do, keep it in place and practice threading it back into the linkage. Do it a few times until you are comfortable and can now relax that at least you know you can get the lever back into the linkage.
Now, unthread the lever and remove the lever and ****, etc out of the car.
Take a dremel and cut the shift **** split down the middle. There is a hard metal piece on the inside (several layers deep, through plastic, etc.). This is what you need to get to and remove.
Once you reach the inside of the tootsie roll pop, you'll need a vice on one end and a good locking vice-grip on the other, and then just turn until you break the thread-lock.
Once you're done, clean that crap off the threads and then reinstall the lever back into the linkage. Install your new know and you're done.
Hope that helps
-Smoky
Seriously..this is not a big deal. We had a horrendous shift **** install on a friend's car at a meet a couple months ago. Here's how it is handled...
Before I start let me say I am not advocating this as proper process. But instead as a how-to in case the worst does happen during a **** install...
First, do not panic if you have spun the lever out of the linkage. You can thread it right back in plenty enough to bring the car to the dealer or whoever afterwards to finish the job underneath with the proper torque specs.
The reason you cannot get the **** off is because in some years/models Nissan decided to use some serious lock-tite/jb weld/epoxy thread lock-like substance between the METAL inner shift **** piece and the METAL threaded lever.
Put the shifter into neutral to make things ez on yourself (make sure e-brak is secure). Go ahead and spin the lever out of the linkage. Once you do, keep it in place and practice threading it back into the linkage. Do it a few times until you are comfortable and can now relax that at least you know you can get the lever back into the linkage.
Now, unthread the lever and remove the lever and ****, etc out of the car.
Take a dremel and cut the shift **** split down the middle. There is a hard metal piece on the inside (several layers deep, through plastic, etc.). This is what you need to get to and remove.
Once you reach the inside of the tootsie roll pop, you'll need a vice on one end and a good locking vice-grip on the other, and then just turn until you break the thread-lock.
Once you're done, clean that crap off the threads and then reinstall the lever back into the linkage. Install your new know and you're done.
Hope that helps
-Smoky
Registered User
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Sac
Possibly the same problem?
Ok guys... everyone calm down. Nothing to see here...
Seriously..this is not a big deal. We had a horrendous shift **** install on a friend's car at a meet a couple months ago. Here's how it is handled...
Before I start let me say I am not advocating this as proper process. But instead as a how-to in case the worst does happen during a **** install...
First, do not panic if you have spun the lever out of the linkage. You can thread it right back in plenty enough to bring the car to the dealer or whoever afterwards to finish the job underneath with the proper torque specs.
The reason you cannot get the **** off is because in some years/models Nissan decided to use some serious lock-tite/jb weld/epoxy thread lock-like substance between the METAL inner shift **** piece and the METAL threaded lever.
Put the shifter into neutral to make things ez on yourself (make sure e-brak is secure). Go ahead and spin the lever out of the linkage. Once you do, keep it in place and practice threading it back into the linkage. Do it a few times until you are comfortable and can now relax that at least you know you can get the lever back into the linkage.
Now, unthread the lever and remove the lever and ****, etc out of the car.
Take a dremel and cut the shift **** split down the middle. There is a hard metal piece on the inside (several layers deep, through plastic, etc.). This is what you need to get to and remove.
Once you reach the inside of the tootsie roll pop, you'll need a vice on one end and a good locking vice-grip on the other, and then just turn until you break the thread-lock.
Once you're done, clean that crap off the threads and then reinstall the lever back into the linkage. Install your new know and you're done.
Hope that helps
-Smoky
Seriously..this is not a big deal. We had a horrendous shift **** install on a friend's car at a meet a couple months ago. Here's how it is handled...
Before I start let me say I am not advocating this as proper process. But instead as a how-to in case the worst does happen during a **** install...
First, do not panic if you have spun the lever out of the linkage. You can thread it right back in plenty enough to bring the car to the dealer or whoever afterwards to finish the job underneath with the proper torque specs.
The reason you cannot get the **** off is because in some years/models Nissan decided to use some serious lock-tite/jb weld/epoxy thread lock-like substance between the METAL inner shift **** piece and the METAL threaded lever.
Put the shifter into neutral to make things ez on yourself (make sure e-brak is secure). Go ahead and spin the lever out of the linkage. Once you do, keep it in place and practice threading it back into the linkage. Do it a few times until you are comfortable and can now relax that at least you know you can get the lever back into the linkage.
Now, unthread the lever and remove the lever and ****, etc out of the car.
Take a dremel and cut the shift **** split down the middle. There is a hard metal piece on the inside (several layers deep, through plastic, etc.). This is what you need to get to and remove.
Once you reach the inside of the tootsie roll pop, you'll need a vice on one end and a good locking vice-grip on the other, and then just turn until you break the thread-lock.
Once you're done, clean that crap off the threads and then reinstall the lever back into the linkage. Install your new know and you're done.
Hope that helps
-Smoky
Registered User
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Sac
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