is this the 'orange peel' that everyone talks about on stock paint jobs?

 

yes

 

are trying to eliminate them?

 

Is it possible without a repaint?

 

I would be affraid to risk it on stock paint.

 

The actual paint is not what contains the orange peel, it's the clear-coat.
Paint goes on flat and smooth.

To get rid of orange peel and achieve a glass like finish you or an experienced body shop( preferred ) would wet sand the clear-coat with a 2000 grit or higher grit of sand paper then buff the area down to bring out the shine once again.

 

Be careful not to sand to hard, you will go right thru the coat.

 

A cheaper way is to have a detailer polish and buff your car. In most cases they can cut away enough clear to make it smooth.

 

To eliminate the orange peel completely, wet sanding is needed

 

And ---Sorry, but after, another clear coat and wet sand again, then buff. Ur just taking off too much of the clear which is ur Shine,depth and protectant.
U can tell if u have orange peel by going to ur paint supplier and buying a RUBBER Glaxing applicator. It is about 2" X 3" ----Its a squeegy really. Liberally wet ur surface with water and "squeegy" it----The Orange peel will come out and slap u if u have it. This is what u do when u wet sand---U do an area,WET then squeegy. When that area (sq ft) is smooth as a babys a$$, then u do another sq ft.
That is one of the reasons a Pro Paint Job costs bucks---Prime,wet Sand, Prime with a darker gray,wet sand,Prime with a lighter gray, wet sand. Apply a sealer, Paint,wet sand, Paint, wet sand. Clear coat, sand, Clear,sand, Buff. Varys with paints and painters, but gives u an idea. AAAAHHHHH -- I dont have the patience any more !!!!!!!

 

I do agree that wet automotive painting can be a pain but damm, you make out to be a nightmare...lol

Quick basics- you prep the area( repairing), then wetsand, then look for any imperfections and repair IF any and wet sand the repaired areas.
then prime, wet sand the prime smooth and check again for imperfections.
if felx agent is needed applybefore and after paint. then ready for paint and clear.

Clear does not need to be wet sanded once applied, HOWEVER to achieve orange peel free/ extremly shiney finish wet sanding and buffing of the clear is recommended.

"Ur just taking off too much of the clear which is ur Shine,depth and protectant."

If a decent amount of clear is put on( at least 3 coats ) you are more than safe to wet sand and buff. when wetsanding the clearcoat you should be useing no less than a 1500 grit more likely a 2000 or higher grit which barely takes off anything

Before takeing anyones advise here, go to a professional shop and ask questions.
I'm only in the process of learning how to paint.

 

Well i can help with this thread.

Im not sure what your talking about but if your talkign about ur oem 350z paint job those dimples that your talking about is most commonly referred to as "Urethane wave"/

Basically all it is a wave from the clear coat getting baked on @ the factory and all the other factors that differ when a car gets painted OEM style as opposed to aftermarket body shop paint jobs.

Allot of body shop owners dont really know why there is this urethane wave other than the way they paint the cars using robots etc. Last time i heard they only use a quart of paint on an entire car @ the factory.

If it has been repainted you can wetsand it, you can even wetsand the oem clear for a smoother finish, but tbe careful cuz now a days the oem clear is very very very thin, prolly too thin for you to be successful as a noob.

Heres a pic after i painted, wetsanded and buffed my oem hood.

WETSANDED





BUFFED AND POLISHED







-B-