Mazinger Z

iTrader: (49)

What's the usual cost to paint a Veilside V1 lip? Something like this:
Is it possible to DIY for paint?

And oh, I'll probably do the install myself.

GTNPU Z

iTrader: (17)

$50-$100 depending on the shop. Anything is a DIY so long as you have the equipment & knowledge of how to do it. I know of several members here that paint their own parts.

Mazinger Z

iTrader: (49)

Can someone list the things I would need to do a DIY? How would I color match? Thanks!

007gt

iTrader: (3)

where to get the silverstone spray paint??

Mazinger Z

iTrader: (49)

Yes. Where can I get it?

bbs350z

iTrader: (85)

well around here, there a place called finishmasters i go 2. its relativly cheap, but u really should spray w/a spray gun desiged for paint. i got my silverstone for cheap. just giv them the code (WV2) and theyll mix it. altho ull also need reducer, clear, and activator if u intend on doing it urself. i also paint my own parts.

charged

iTrader: (1)

I have a silverstone zr, it cost me $200 to have painted and installed. Installation can be trcky. Also, there are 5 different shades of the wv2 and to mach on an after mkt part can be difficult. Good luck.

brandonanix

iTrader: (8)

if you have never painted anything before, with a compressor and gun, I wouldnt recommend testing out your novice skills on a car part, maybe try something that has no value first. the paint color is the easy part, but the clear coat is what takes experience. however, a V1 lip since its so small, wouldnt be to hard to do if your a novice, just practice on something first

03Zilverstone

iTrader: (4)

If you're going to start painting stuff then by all means go out and get some equipment, but don't buy all that stuff just for this little job. You can get it painted for half of what a good, low priced spray gun alone will cost. If you're wanting to get into painting just say so and I'll list out everything you'll need.


Not quite. A car part is just as good as anything else. If he screws it up all he has to do is sand it down and try again. Also the base coat is trickier than the clear coat, especially on a metallic or tricoat job.

Mazinger Z

iTrader: (49)

Yea, could you list out everything I would need? Preferably how to do it as well. I think it would be a good addition to the DIY forum in case other people wanted to know. Thanks!

z-u-later

iTrader: (43)

I had my Suzuka front lip painted for $150. Several coats of Silverstone paint and clear coat. You spent $30K+ on your Z and probably several hundred $s on your front lip. Spending another $150-$200 to have the professionals at a reputable paint shop do it for you is a worthwhile investment to make sure the color of the front lip matches your Z. This is a very noticeable mod and if the color does not match, people will notice it immediately since everyone looks at the front of a car first.

Armitage

iTrader: (15)

I'd venture to guess $100-200, depending on the type of paint (PPG, Dupont more $$ but better mix) and quality of service.

THE TECH

iTrader: (154)

If you've never painted something before, you should talk to a body shop and see if they would let you watch. It's not really something that you can write a step by step manual to.

You would end up spending a lot more on everything needed plus the time to do it all than you would by just having it done professionally.

sluggoZ

iTrader: (129)

Mine cost $99.00 total for the paint job. If you plan on doing the install. I would recommend a buddy to help ya. Depending on which lip you have..like one of the other posters said..."it can be tricky"...should be no problem. If I can do the install so can everyone else! Good Luck!

drifter23

iTrader: (27)

I had a shop prep my V1 lip and painted for $150. Installed it myself as the install is pretty straight forward. As others has stated it would be better just to let a shop do the painting for you. Unless you like doing things yourself it would be a great experience. Included a pic of my V1 lip below.

03Zilverstone

iTrader: (4)

For some reason the forum hasn't been working with me. I'll post up some stuff this weekend for you. It's getting a little late for a write up.

Mazinger Z

iTrader: (49)

Ok great, thanks. The forum has been down for a couple of days if you haven't heard but I think it's running fine now. Looking forward to that write up!

03Zilverstone

iTrader: (4)

Tools you'll need:

air compressor - You'll need a good one running plenty of cfms. Size doesn't really matter, but HP and gallons usually run hand in hand with cfms. I actually can't even remember what the cfm rating is required for an HVLP gun. I suggest looking at Kobalt brand ones from Lowe's. That's what I use. They tend to run cheaper and I haven't had any problems. Also look into Cambell Hausfeld and Ingersoll Rand.

spray gun - You'll need atleast two here. One for primer and one for base and clear. Some people run a seperate one for clear only, but you don't have to as long as you clean the gun out real good. I suggest looking at the Finex FX300 line by Sharpe. They're about the best for the money. You'll need a 1.3-1.4mm tip for base/clear and a 1.8mm for primer.

filter/drier - I can't stress how important these are. If you don't get a good one, don't bother. Without it and I garantee you're paint job will be ruined. No specific brands here, but get one with a seperate filter and drier. You'll spend atleast in the $150 range for it. Put this at the end of you're hard line. Put a regulator after these.


Supplies:

base - Pretty self explainatory. Mixes with reducer. Sprays over stock clear or primer sanded smooth with 400-600 grit. Only use as many coats as it takes to make it one uniform color. I tend to use PPG DBC, but they have some other good lines. I've also heard some really good things about SPI from some bodyman friends of mine.

clear - Same as above, exept this require a hardner/catalyst as well. You don't ever sand the base before spraying clear. It goes directly over top after letting the base cure up for abour 25 minutes. Spray one light coat. Then let it set for around 10 minutes. Spray a good coat and wait 30 minutes. Spray one last good coat and let it dry for 24 hours.

primer - Mixes with a hardner. Only spray over bare metal, body filler, glaze, or paint that has deep scratches and has been sanded with 220. Unlike popular belief you don't primer over and entire car. You can paint directly over good stock clear.

thinner - This is used pretty much strictly for clean up. Shake some up in the paint cup and spray it through the gun after every time you spray anything. Do it atleast twice.

reducer - Used in base, clear, and some primers to reduce them.

hardner/catalyst - Used in clear and primer. This is what causes them to cure. If you don't put any in you'll have a mess, because it won't dry and if it does it will take forever. Also mix everything exactly as the spec sheets say, especially the clear.

methods:

cutting/wetsanding: This is to get orange peel or imperfections out of the clear coat. For most people you can just use 1200 and move up to 1800. If you're **** about your car you can start with 1200, then 1800, 2000, 3000.

buffing: The clear will be dull after wetsanding. This will make it shiny again. Let the buffer do the work, don't put pressure on it. Make sure to keep a little buffing compound on the pad. It doesn't always have to be a lot, but make sure it has some.

painting: Overlap strokes halfway. Start from top and go down.