How to paint flat black?
11-10-2007 | 11:25 PM
#21
Originally Posted by punish_her
For the A-Team fan. Important thing make sure the paint you use is chemicaly compatable. Like not mixing naptha and laqure. For best results take down to metal, epoxy primer, sand, several coats of primer to build up the body. Couple of coats of the flat, color sand lightly, spray flat clear.
Or just sand the surface down as much as possible, primer with a black primer, then flat black paint, then a flat clear...
If u go straight flat black paint with no primer, or no prep, it will look nasty..
But my brother has painted his workvan numerous times with a roller, and a brush.. Orange peal like crazy, but from a distance looks ok.
11-11-2007 | 06:51 AM
#22
John Deere Blitz Black can be picked up at any authorized JD dealer. It's CHEAP too. Only about $25 a gallon. It needs relatively little thinner to spray, or if you want you can buy directly in rattle cans, but you'll need ALOT of cans to spray a van. I painted a bunch of things for my civic with it. It's really popular with old hot rod guys.
11-11-2007 | 09:00 AM
#23
Originally Posted by NextLevel
Agree
Or just sand the surface down as much as possible, primer with a black primer, then flat black paint, then a flat clear...
Or just sand the surface down as much as possible, primer with a black primer, then flat black paint, then a flat clear...
The hard part of not going to the metal is the paint incompatibility. If he makes the wrong decision on the paint or primer choice the paint will not adhear and sluff off.
Taking it to the metal, using a cleaner to prep it and 2 part epoxy primer will etch the metal and seal it. There will be little or no possibility of sluffing.
If you do a little research of the year and make, then take that into an auto paint store you can get a product where you do not have to take it down to metal. That will be the easiest.
The bad part about the john deer paints is they are cheaper, ment for duribility not quality. That will be the biggest risk of a chemical reaction. Yes you pay $25 a gallon but you may end up spending hours more work removing the new paint down to the metal cleaning and etching the metal to remove all the resedue then having to seal it wih the 2 part epoxy and starting with a better base.
If you take the time and do it right the first time you save hours of work and headaches. But thats from my experiences. The easiest and cheapest way is taking the paint code to the paint store.
11-11-2007 | 01:36 PM
#24
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From: Fayetteville, NC
Originally Posted by punish_her
The hard part of not going to the metal is the paint incompatibility. If he makes the wrong decision on the paint or primer choice the paint will not adhear and sluff off.
Taking it to the metal, using a cleaner to prep it and 2 part epoxy primer will etch the metal and seal it. There will be little or no possibility of sluffing.
If you do a little research of the year and make, then take that into an auto paint store you can get a product where you do not have to take it down to metal. That will be the easiest.
The bad part about the john deer paints is they are cheaper, ment for duribility not quality. That will be the biggest risk of a chemical reaction. Yes you pay $25 a gallon but you may end up spending hours more work removing the new paint down to the metal cleaning and etching the metal to remove all the resedue then having to seal it wih the 2 part epoxy and starting with a better base.
If you take the time and do it right the first time you save hours of work and headaches. But thats from my experiences. The easiest and cheapest way is taking the paint code to the paint store.
Taking it to the metal, using a cleaner to prep it and 2 part epoxy primer will etch the metal and seal it. There will be little or no possibility of sluffing.
If you do a little research of the year and make, then take that into an auto paint store you can get a product where you do not have to take it down to metal. That will be the easiest.
The bad part about the john deer paints is they are cheaper, ment for duribility not quality. That will be the biggest risk of a chemical reaction. Yes you pay $25 a gallon but you may end up spending hours more work removing the new paint down to the metal cleaning and etching the metal to remove all the resedue then having to seal it wih the 2 part epoxy and starting with a better base.
If you take the time and do it right the first time you save hours of work and headaches. But thats from my experiences. The easiest and cheapest way is taking the paint code to the paint store.
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