Thanks MUZZY! The silicon was all that I was missing. I opted for a smoked lexan so the border may not be needed but I may add it last minute. My glass guy had expressed that cracking may happen at high speeds like you said MUZZY, but I know a few 240sx guys running lexan and they haven't had that issue.

Thanks again!

 

lexan window is probably 10% the weight of the stock glass. VERY large weight savings here...

as for the hatch not weighing very much? obviously the person never took off the hatch and weighed it before.. stock hatch w/o glass is close to 60 pounds! cf hatch is only 20~22.

 

i was speaking in regards to lexan vs. OEM glass. Yes, CF hatch weighs less then OEM hatch. Yes, lexan weighs less then glass. I don't need to weigh it to know that, but thanks for pointing that out.

 

you can come and look at all my stress cracks if you want on my hatch

 

Anybody?

 

I would recommend getting it pre-cut. Order it from LSauto, I think it's $200 shipped and includes hardware. You can't really beat that !

 

I agree with Jim, i used this with my MG hatch some silicon sealant from autozone, and it is good to go.

 

edit..nvm stupid question

 

MUZZY- what kind of hatch do you have? I have a VIS racing hatch and it came predrilled with the holes for the wiper and nissan hamburger, and in your pic it doesn't look like yours has those holes.

thanks
edsel

 

Muzzy has Seibon if I'm not mistaken

 

so if you have regular oem glass will you still get cracks riding with the windows down?

 

i heard, that you can "stick" plastic windows like lexan. is that right ? because i dont like the look of these bolts around the hatch with lexan

alex.

 

I know a few domestic musclecar guys that do run lexan using just silicon or whatever adhesive they used, but the general consensus is that its much safer to use screws or rivets.

 

someone got pictures with black screws ?

Alex.

 

I will get mine up eventually. I've been meaning to show my Mastergrade issues and lexan but have not gotten around to it because of med school owning my life.

 

need help, because I have to order the rear lexan from a german producer, who never made it for a Z before.

How much bolts are in the lexan? I think 24?
How long/wide are they, and from which type are they?
Are they steel?

Need help!
Thanks

 

ROFL.. not! ounces(lexan) versus pounds(glass)!

 

im all about weight savings, but im also all about TINT! specially the kind that hides the $3k+ sounds systems people have in their car!

 

^ You're not really gaining anything from the CF hatch with $3k of sounds. How big are your subs/box and amps? That can add a lot of extra weight......with the CF hatch weight savings, you pretty much equal it out with that much added audio equipment.

Back to OP, I'm also in the road to going lighter with a Mastergrade hatch/lexan combo. It's a big weight cut, especially if you take off your spare, jack, and tools. I'm looking to get clear lexan, have the borders blacked out. Instead of rivets I'm going to use screws with some silicone to seal it.

 

i was speaking in generalities.

like i said, im all for weight savings... but im sure most of the Zs that nissan NA has sold in the past 7 years are mainly used in daily driving (we find the dedicated track Zs on this site and others). i dont know about anybody else on here, but i go on highways.... which bring us to this issue of the hatch cracking.

i always thought the FRONT of the Z was heavier than the rear, wouldnt that make a CF hood better for weight savings/distribution and overall balance of the car?

and is the weight of the stock hatch 50/50? can the left side technically be 1-2lbs heavier? and id assume the CF hatches ARE 50/50.... so that would mean no matter what, anybody who gets a CF hatch has to get the car corner balanced for new weights!?


LOL! although ive been told i knit-pick about stoopid things ;D