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Z part weights... with pictures

Old 02-22-2013, 09:29 AM
  #101  
Z33_Taxi
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Headlight w/o HID ballast 5lbs

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6lbs w/ hid ballast

Last edited by Z33_Taxi; 02-22-2013 at 10:30 AM.
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Old 02-22-2013, 11:30 AM
  #102  
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My studies show that our power, grip, and downforce levels, weight reduction is not that important.
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Old 02-22-2013, 11:50 AM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by 2TH PWR View Post
My studies show that our power, grip, and downforce levels, weight reduction is not that important.
It some aspects. I think some weight loss is needed. There was an article, when the Z first came out, where the raced a stripped Z vs a stock Z and the stripped Z was actually slower
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Old 02-25-2013, 05:35 PM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by 3hree5ive0ero View Post
The little batteries usually have low CCA (cold crank amp) ratings, so if you live in a region where the temps are low, you will most likely need to jump your car. I've had the Braille's 11 or 13 lbs battery a few years back and was not impressed. Even during TX's weaksauce winters, it struggled a bit.
Dang, I didn't want to read that. I was thinking of finally buying the 9lb battery since I don't drive it all year round. I drive the Z a few times a week, so I don't think I'd have a problem holding the charge to get it started. However, if I bought the battery and stored the Z in the winters like I usually do, then I'd take the battery out and bring it into the house where it's nice and warm and dry. I'd also get a tender for it.

Thoughts?
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Old 02-25-2013, 05:47 PM
  #105  
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Originally Posted by SmoothZ View Post
Dang, I didn't want to read that. I was thinking of finally buying the 9lb battery since I don't drive it all year round. I drive the Z a few times a week, so I don't think I'd have a problem holding the charge to get it started. However, if I bought the battery and stored the Z in the winters like I usually do, then I'd take the battery out and bring it into the house where it's nice and warm and dry. I'd also get a tender for it.

Thoughts?
Thoughts (for anyone not just you):

              Last edited by Resmarted; 02-25-2013 at 05:49 PM.
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              Old 02-25-2013, 05:59 PM
                #106  
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              LMAO! That's awesome advice!

              Solutions:

              Not overweight, so I'm good there.
              Thought about relocating the battery to the rear but haven't figured out how to install it and make it look good.
              Used to live in SoCal and hated the prices, the politics, and the hippies.
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              Old 02-25-2013, 06:43 PM
                #107  
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              Originally Posted by SmoothZ View Post
              LMAO! That's awesome advice!

              Solutions:

              Not overweight, so I'm good there.
              Thought about relocating the battery to the rear but haven't figured out how to install it and make it look good.
              Used to live in SoCal and hated the prices, the politics, and the hippies.
              Only problem I truly have with california is smogging my car. Everything else i can live with lol
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              Old 02-25-2013, 08:58 PM
                #108  
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              Originally Posted by SmoothZ View Post
              LMAO! That's awesome advice!

              Solutions:

              Not overweight, so I'm good there.
              Thought about relocating the battery to the rear but haven't figured out how to install it and make it look good.
              Used to live in SoCal and hated the prices, the politics, and the hippies.
              Battery box and tray mounted in front of rear strut bar. Run cables under plastics of trans tunnel and through firewall grommet.

              That's what I've been thinking. My rear is stripped though.
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              Old 02-25-2013, 11:02 PM
                #109  
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              ^^^

              That's what I plan to do but in the driver side cubby...
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              Old 03-10-2013, 04:48 PM
                #110  
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              ...battery in the cubby?

              DO tell

              Behind the seat?
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              Old 03-10-2013, 05:19 PM
                #111  
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              Yes, behind the seat...once you remove the cubby box it actually gets spacious, only hurdle is a mounting points seeing the gas tank is below. I'm going to have to mount it to the wall or rear of the cubby.

              still haven't mocked anything up...
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              Old 03-15-2013, 10:38 AM
                #112  
              s1g96
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              What does the rear hatch glass weigh?
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              Old 03-15-2013, 11:04 PM
                #113  
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              Originally Posted by s1g96 View Post
              What does the rear hatch glass weigh?
              i don't have it off hand but you can hold it up between your thumb and forefinger while it's covered in WD-40

              so not much... DEFINITELY not worth switching to lexan if that's the idea
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              Old 03-15-2013, 11:10 PM
                #114  
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              Originally Posted by 2TH PWR View Post
              My studies show that our power, grip, and downforce levels, weight reduction is not that important.
              In a straight line it doesn't matter a WHOLE bunch, but when you shave 600lbs and start getting serious into road racing, autox, drift, and the like weight reduction makes an ENORMOUS difference

              it also comes into play a lot when you start having to add weight back into the car like roll cages and the like

              it might be beyond the senses of most drivers but i can feel a pretty significant difference in handling with even 50lbs less weight

              if nothing else it saves gas... before i put a much more aggressive body kit on the car I was getting combined highway/city mileage between 30-35mpg

              (granted that was grandma driving it to and from work)
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              Old 03-16-2013, 07:10 PM
                #115  
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              Originally Posted by Archaismic View Post
              In a straight line it doesn't matter a WHOLE bunch, but when you shave 600lbs and start getting serious into road racing, autox, drift, and the like weight reduction makes an ENORMOUS difference

              it also comes into play a lot when you start having to add weight back into the car like roll cages and the like

              it might be beyond the senses of most drivers but i can feel a pretty significant difference in handling with even 50lbs less weight

              if nothing else it saves gas... before i put a much more aggressive body kit on the car I was getting combined highway/city mileage between 30-35mpg

              (granted that was grandma driving it to and from work)
              no. on a local 2.3 km road circuit it looks like it's about 400 lbs per 1 second difference in optimum lap time all other things being considered equal. Yes I can feel the difference in 50 lbs. easily. just doesn't make as much difference on the clock as you would expect.
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              Old 03-16-2013, 08:41 PM
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              then there's something else wrong with the setup that's not taking advantage of the weight loss... my z is stock plus bolt ons and weight reduction and it absolutely destroys even HRs (stock plus bolt ons)... so i think there's something else going on there
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              Old 03-16-2013, 09:51 PM
                #117  
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              Any insight on these batteries? They're lightweight,cheaper than Braille/Odyssey, but have the same specs.
              Tomioka Racing Lightweight Battery
              http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?m...mt&prodid=6040
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              Old 03-16-2013, 10:06 PM
                #118  
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              Originally Posted by 2TH PWR View Post
              no. on a local 2.3 km road circuit it looks like it's about 400 lbs per 1 second difference in optimum lap time all other things being considered equal. Yes I can feel the difference in 50 lbs. easily. just doesn't make as much difference on the clock as you would expect.
              Well drag racing 100 pounds is good for 0.10 second , road course has a lot of variables. First would be the amount of slow corners to accelerate out of, next weight will effect tire heat, and the last one I feel to mention, the suspension.

              400 pounds, mentioned above , will change the suspension frequency. I would have to pull up my info, but it is a nice difference. Same with where the 400 pounds are, I bet they were not equally distributed.
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              Old 05-04-2013, 08:45 AM
                #119  
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              I have everything stripped now from the rear seats back along with all audio out. I'll have some pics and weights as soon as I buy a sufficient scale
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              Old 05-04-2013, 12:46 PM
                #120  
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              Originally Posted by terrasmak View Post
              Well drag racing 100 pounds is good for 0.10 second , road course has a lot of variables. First would be the amount of slow corners to accelerate out of, next weight will effect tire heat, and the last one I feel to mention, the suspension.

              400 pounds, mentioned above , will change the suspension frequency. I would have to pull up my info, but it is a nice difference. Same with where the 400 pounds are, I bet they were not equally distributed.
              Turns out I was wrong. It's between 200 and 300 pounds a second.
              A great lap time on street tires is 80 seconds.
              track record is 73 seconds. set by a stripped 550 awhp GTR on Hoosier A6 I believe.
              Typical beginner will go around in about 90-95 seconds.
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