Painting the Engine Compartment Covers
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Painting the Engine Compartment Covers
Just had my engine, battery and brake fluid covers painted. Did the prep work myself, so the body shop only charged me $50 to actually paint.
Prep was easy. Remove the Nissan burger from the engine cover. Wet sand the covers with 400 grit paper and Comet cleanser (I just put Comet in a dishpan of water). Mask the "3.5" and "V6" silver paint with masking tape (using a razor blade to trim).
Have the body shop use Bulldog adhesion promoter or a similar product. Paint WITH THE FACTORY PAINT. Remove the masking tape and clear coat the entire cover (mix a flex agent in the clear).
Voila`! A perfect match!
Prep was easy. Remove the Nissan burger from the engine cover. Wet sand the covers with 400 grit paper and Comet cleanser (I just put Comet in a dishpan of water). Mask the "3.5" and "V6" silver paint with masking tape (using a razor blade to trim).
Have the body shop use Bulldog adhesion promoter or a similar product. Paint WITH THE FACTORY PAINT. Remove the masking tape and clear coat the entire cover (mix a flex agent in the clear).
Voila`! A perfect match!
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heat problems
now that you did this, is there a heat problem with the paint? any signs of flake or chipping?
Looks good. Injen has a discount on the blue tube intake system
Looks good. Injen has a discount on the blue tube intake system
#3
I just got mine painted last week. I also had them paint the sway bar. I think it looks 100% better now. You should get the blue Injen intake it looks really nice with the rest of the blue.
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Re: Painting the Engine Compartment Covers
Originally posted by MSOsr
Just had my engine, battery and brake fluid covers painted. Did the prep work myself, so the body shop only charged me $50 to actually paint.
Prep was easy. Remove the Nissan burger from the engine cover. Wet sand the covers with 400 grit paper and Comet cleanser (I just put Comet in a dishpan of water). Mask the "3.5" and "V6" silver paint with masking tape (using a razor blade to trim).
Have the body shop use Bulldog adhesion promoter or a similar product. Paint WITH THE FACTORY PAINT. Remove the masking tape and clear coat the entire cover (mix a flex agent in the clear).
Voila`! A perfect match!
Just had my engine, battery and brake fluid covers painted. Did the prep work myself, so the body shop only charged me $50 to actually paint.
Prep was easy. Remove the Nissan burger from the engine cover. Wet sand the covers with 400 grit paper and Comet cleanser (I just put Comet in a dishpan of water). Mask the "3.5" and "V6" silver paint with masking tape (using a razor blade to trim).
Have the body shop use Bulldog adhesion promoter or a similar product. Paint WITH THE FACTORY PAINT. Remove the masking tape and clear coat the entire cover (mix a flex agent in the clear).
Voila`! A perfect match!
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Re: Re: Painting the Engine Compartment Covers
Originally posted by shagz
Looks dope!! All you need now is a chrome intake pipe.
Looks dope!! All you need now is a chrome intake pipe.
Last edited by MSOsr; 09-16-2003 at 06:43 PM.
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Re: heat problems
Originally posted by z-bear
now that you did this, is there a heat problem with the paint? any signs of flake or chipping?
now that you did this, is there a heat problem with the paint? any signs of flake or chipping?
#10
Re: Re: heat problems
Originally posted by MSOsr
The paint is the same paint that's on the underside of the hood and inside the wheel wells in the engine compartment. The clear is a high temp flex clear. Everything should be fine!
The paint is the same paint that's on the underside of the hood and inside the wheel wells in the engine compartment. The clear is a high temp flex clear. Everything should be fine!
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Originally posted by MSOsr
Should be here in the next few days..... I'll be at Shagz' place to install it.
Should be here in the next few days..... I'll be at Shagz' place to install it.
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Originally posted by Mike Wazowski
I get my engine parts painted by Elegant Wood Design aka Suite E GraphX.
Victor
I get my engine parts painted by Elegant Wood Design aka Suite E GraphX.
Victor
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Originally posted by shagz
I want mine done in the same blood red as the AEM intake, and the grounding cables. Or should I go for the yellow. I have pretty much stayed with the dark blood red, black and chrome as a color theme in the car, although the Momo seatbelt pads I have, have racing yellow in them. So I'm wondering I'm I should go for racing yellow for the covers.
I want mine done in the same blood red as the AEM intake, and the grounding cables. Or should I go for the yellow. I have pretty much stayed with the dark blood red, black and chrome as a color theme in the car, although the Momo seatbelt pads I have, have racing yellow in them. So I'm wondering I'm I should go for racing yellow for the covers.
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Re: Re: Re: heat problems
Originally posted by pinnacleliquid
Having done a bit of painting myself, I am curious about the 'high temp clear' your body shop mentioned. I do not know of one. See if you can get a product number please. And the paint inside the wheel wells, and under the hood is very likely the same paint as the outside of the car. Did you torch the part after sanding and before bulldog? You will gain much better adhesion in the long run. Looks good though.
Having done a bit of painting myself, I am curious about the 'high temp clear' your body shop mentioned. I do not know of one. See if you can get a product number please. And the paint inside the wheel wells, and under the hood is very likely the same paint as the outside of the car. Did you torch the part after sanding and before bulldog? You will gain much better adhesion in the long run. Looks good though.
When I said the paint is the same as on the wheel wells, etc., I meant exactly what you said. The "factory paint".....meaning the same that is all over the car.
Did not torch the part....never heard of that.
Thanks for your comments.
BTW, I have some scratches on my door panel plastic switch cover (or whatever it is called). Does your company cover small pieces like that? CF would look really good, I think.
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I did all this myself, including the paint on my DB. Ordered the paint from Paintscratch.com. It's not cheap, but cheaper than having it done, and it is factory high temp DB paint. Along with the primer and flex clear coat. Matches perfectly.
#17
Re: Re: Re: Re: heat problems
Did not torch the part....never heard of that.
Thanks for your comments.
BTW, I have some scratches on my door panel plastic switch cover (or whatever it is called). Does your company cover small pieces like that? CF would look really good, I think. [/B][/QUOTE]
Certain plastics, especially the newer exotic blends found in various places on most new cars (your underhood covers, the window switch panels) are difficult to sand. And develop a fuzziness or a peachfuzz that pokes up through the paint. We use a propane torch to eliminate that and it also serves to prepare the plastic suface to better accept a solvent based paint. There are SAE papers that discuss it in more detail.
We don't offer just the window switches alone unless you want to send us yours to CF. Cost I guess is about $100.00 per pair.
Thanks for your comments.
BTW, I have some scratches on my door panel plastic switch cover (or whatever it is called). Does your company cover small pieces like that? CF would look really good, I think. [/B][/QUOTE]
Certain plastics, especially the newer exotic blends found in various places on most new cars (your underhood covers, the window switch panels) are difficult to sand. And develop a fuzziness or a peachfuzz that pokes up through the paint. We use a propane torch to eliminate that and it also serves to prepare the plastic suface to better accept a solvent based paint. There are SAE papers that discuss it in more detail.
We don't offer just the window switches alone unless you want to send us yours to CF. Cost I guess is about $100.00 per pair.
#18
Originally posted by shagz
How much did it cost you ? Was there shipping involved ?
How much did it cost you ? Was there shipping involved ?
Victor