Paint cure question.
I read on the forum not too long ago that new paint shouldn't be waxed until it cures which happens under UV light. If all goes as planned I will be getting my Z around the beginning of new year. There will be no sunlight (if you know Seattle's weather you know what I am talking about) so I was wondering if anyone knows how long I need to wait until I can safely apply Zaino or any other wax for that matter.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
Most of the new paints are catalyzed, which means they set up very fast, and also, unfortunately, are prone to orange peel (like we all see). This is a result of less-than-smart laws passed by California and mimicked by the rest of the world (what does that say about the rest of us...)
Anyway, the chemical reaction is essentially completed within a short time after the painting at the factory. There are a few unreacted volatiles to bind up or drive off- so there is a short period where the final volatiles come out. By the time you get around to buying the car, it is pretty well "dried". You can wax without too much concern after you get the car. In ancient times, the companies used really good paints, which took quite a while to fully cure- this is the UV idea, or InfraRed to bake the paint. The main point is to use some type of light to cook the paint into a stable condition.
Wax away.
Anyway, the chemical reaction is essentially completed within a short time after the painting at the factory. There are a few unreacted volatiles to bind up or drive off- so there is a short period where the final volatiles come out. By the time you get around to buying the car, it is pretty well "dried". You can wax without too much concern after you get the car. In ancient times, the companies used really good paints, which took quite a while to fully cure- this is the UV idea, or InfraRed to bake the paint. The main point is to use some type of light to cook the paint into a stable condition.
Wax away.
Originally posted by johnsZ
Most of the new paints are catalyzed, which means they set up very fast, and also, unfortunately, are prone to orange peel (like we all see). This is a result of less-than-smart laws passed by California and mimicked by the rest of the world (what does that say about the rest of us...)
Anyway, the chemical reaction is essentially completed within a short time after the painting at the factory. There are a few unreacted volatiles to bind up or drive off- so there is a short period where the final volatiles come out. By the time you get around to buying the car, it is pretty well "dried". You can wax without too much concern after you get the car. In ancient times, the companies used really good paints, which took quite a while to fully cure- this is the UV idea, or InfraRed to bake the paint. The main point is to use some type of light to cook the paint into a stable condition.
Wax away.
Most of the new paints are catalyzed, which means they set up very fast, and also, unfortunately, are prone to orange peel (like we all see). This is a result of less-than-smart laws passed by California and mimicked by the rest of the world (what does that say about the rest of us...)
Anyway, the chemical reaction is essentially completed within a short time after the painting at the factory. There are a few unreacted volatiles to bind up or drive off- so there is a short period where the final volatiles come out. By the time you get around to buying the car, it is pretty well "dried". You can wax without too much concern after you get the car. In ancient times, the companies used really good paints, which took quite a while to fully cure- this is the UV idea, or InfraRed to bake the paint. The main point is to use some type of light to cook the paint into a stable condition.
Wax away.
UV light has nothing to do with the paint on your car. There is a UV urethane clear being hawked to body shops. I used to use different UV cure materials back in 1986. Today they are combining the UV initiators with the standard clearcoats to shorten drying (curing) times. Urethanes of today take months to fully cure, but are usually dry within 8 hours or so. We routinely sand and buff our clears after that and sometimes after only 4 hours if we use heat assist to cure. The 'old' paints were mainly nitrocellulous laquers. They are not in use today except for restoration to concours by somebody afraid to lose points for the wrong paint. It was a high maintainence paint. Orangepeel is normal and is more pronaounced on vertical surfaces than horizontal. That is it is more obvious on your door skin than on your roof or hood. It's the draping effect. and believe it or not automakers find it desirable. Because it is easier to fix if it looks like the enamel on your washing machine or refrigerator. It's 'commercially acceptable'. Not on a Porsche or Ferrari. But in this class of automobiles this is the level of finish they wish to acheive. Nothing more.
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