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Headlight went out

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Old 09-13-2009, 02:03 AM
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MrWatchDawg
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Default Headlight went out

OK i have a situation. I had condensation in the headlight in the car and now my right bulb went out. I am putting a new headlight on but the question is do I need to replace the whole HID kit or just the bulb?

someone pleaseee help!
Old 09-13-2009, 04:32 AM
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raycs7
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There was a guy with the same problem with his aftermarket headlight.
Bulb was OK but he fried the ballast twice.
Test the bulb in the other light.
Old 09-13-2009, 07:32 AM
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Dark8lue
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damn dude since we are on the topic- if u have eyelids and a bulb goes out, its stil covered under warrenty right? and.. they can jus take the bulb out of the back of the headlight so they dnt f up my lids? i hope so..
Old 09-13-2009, 09:04 AM
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davidv
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Remove the old headlamp and inspect bulbs, connectors and harness. If any items show deterioration or carbon deposit from burning - replace.

I would not risk damaging a new headlight with a faulty bulb.

Consider that you can do troubleshooting by connecting everything WITHOUT the headlamp housing assembly in place.

NOTE: Disconnect battery during assembly and disassembly.

Last edited by davidv; 09-13-2009 at 09:14 AM.
Old 09-13-2009, 10:34 AM
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MrWatchDawg
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so basically disconnect the bulb and try it on the other side? How much does the ballast run for?
Old 09-13-2009, 10:58 AM
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Hydralisk
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do you still have the fender well plastics in place or did you ever paint your headlights?
Sometimes water will hit the back of the ballast and Nissan built a failsafe into it.
When the ballast is filled with water, it will simply turn off the entire headlight assembly protecting itself. You need to get the water out of the ballast if this is the case.
Its been a long while but what I *think* I did was shake all the water out of the ballast once I got it off the assembly, then put only the ballast in the oven (or on the driveway on a nice BRIGHT summer day) so you can evaporate the rest of the water out.
It always worked for me.. or you may need a new bulb :/

for the oven, i think it was like 200 degrees for 10 minutes, cool down, test, repeat if didnt work. been a while so not certain as to temp.
Old 09-13-2009, 11:06 AM
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cheshirecat79
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Like Hydralisk mentioned, I'd suggest you take out the headlight and remove the ballast. Dry it out, as there's probably water where the plug is. The headlight might start working again, but you'll need to figure out the condensation/leaking problem.
Old 09-13-2009, 11:11 AM
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well no i didnt ever paint my headlights or anything. I went to my bodyshop guy and he said that because of Texas heat prolly one of the seals melted and thats where teh condensation got in from.

I was going to order these http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSA...ht_4614wt_1165

I wanted to get a set of 8000k bulbs anyway. You think those are good

And than SINCE i cant find ANYONE with a right headlight and junkyards charging beastly for this i am thinking about ordering these. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2003-...ht_6441wt_1165

Also whats the difference between D2R and D2S
Old 09-13-2009, 11:14 AM
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It's probably the ballast, not the bulb.
Old 09-13-2009, 11:18 AM
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MrWatchDawg
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found one which is

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissa...ht_2519wt_1026

should do the trick? Thing is I am going to the body shop to get the headlight replaced so might as well get the bulb and ballast thing done same itme
Old 09-13-2009, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by MrWatchDawg
well no i didnt ever paint my headlights or anything. I went to my bodyshop guy and he said that because of Texas heat prolly one of the seals melted and thats where teh condensation got in from.

I was going to order these http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSA...ht_4614wt_1165

I wanted to get a set of 8000k bulbs anyway. You think those are good

And than SINCE i cant find ANYONE with a right headlight and junkyards charging beastly for this i am thinking about ordering these. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2003-...ht_6441wt_1165

Also whats the difference between D2R and D2S
Bulbs from China are not for me. You get what you pay for. See: http://www.sylvania.com/LearnLightin...HIDTechnology/
Old 09-13-2009, 12:32 PM
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understandable. So which ones should I get than?
Old 09-13-2009, 03:22 PM
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Hydralisk
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Umm I just wanted to say
"CURSE THIS SITE!!!!!!!!"

After I sent my reply, I went outside, knowing my headlights were perfect even though it rained. I turned it on and the left one makes a loud brrrrr sound. My ballast is wet again.

Again, Curse this site..............



lol. Good thing its going to be a track car I guess.
Old 09-14-2009, 07:03 AM
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MrWatchDawg
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ouch lol maybe we can get a 2 for 1 deal haha
Old 09-14-2009, 08:59 AM
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Get 6000k... not 8000k.

...Unless you want to rely on streetlamps to see shet while driving at night.

Plus, 8k and up = rice imo. Stick with what looks FACTORY hid.

I can tell 8k right away while blinding me only to see they are on a 86' Cutless or 93' Ford Ranger when they pass.
Old 09-14-2009, 09:47 AM
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what does a stock TL or TSX have. thats the color im looking for even the beamers
Old 09-14-2009, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by MrWatchDawg
what does a stock TL or TSX have. thats the color im looking for even the beamers
Its not the "K" that makes those car's HLs look like they look, its the type of Projector lens that makes all the difference in how they appear.

Most factory HID units (if not all) use in the 4000K range...

Thats because 4K range has been proven to be the closest to imitate actual sunlight. Anything in the 5k and up range and your light ouput decreases, although it looks brighter from the outside.

In actuality, the driver can see much less with 8K than one with 4.3K. All they accomplish by adding an 8K system is to tell everyone "look, i added a cheap HID kit" and to blind everyone on the road in doing so.

Stick with Factory, tats what all the bemmers and Mercedes have, and thats what your cool Nissan sports car came with as well.
Old 09-16-2009, 07:03 AM
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MrWatchDawg
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makes sense now
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