Noob here...I searched the forums but got a whole bunch of info I don't need just yet but I wanted to know if there is any way to reprogram, I guess, the LEDs to which ones stay on and of those that blink?

Maybe to make it more clear, I'm looking at the ebay ones and want to have the only the outside edge stay on all the time and use the same LEDs as brake lights. The center I would like to remain off until the signals are turned on...seems hard but thats because I'm not very good with electrical unless I get good instructions to follow lol.

Any help with this? Has this been done before?

Thanks guys

 

Like this?:

https://my350z.com/forum/exterior-an...ht-design.html

 

NO.
its all completely custom and the expense of which is usually highly cost prohibitive and will not yield a good end result IMO.

Also ebay taillights are notorious for causing ECU issues that affect accelleration ( i kid you not as strange asa it sounds) due to voltage issues and I also had the pleasure of seeing the LEDS get so hot they melt the cheap plastic they are mounted to, and that w the more expensive DEPO versions..

run away from ANYTHING but OEM LEDS, period.
If you have them already, dont mess w them.
Please.

 

There is one true point in your post, and the rest is complete misinformation...

If you had any electrical knowledge, it really wouldn't be that hard to do and the cost would be pretty minor. You can get a VERY nice end result with LEDs... Look at so many new cars with OEM LED tail-lights, day time running lights etc ect....

If wired correctly, LED's do not give off any significant amount of heat.

I haven't read up on the LED and acceleration problem, I remember reading about it happening. I suspect it would be a lack of current draw problem and not a voltage problem..

 

Heat issue? In theory u are correct. In application I am correct. I had it in my hand. Thusly a pretty nasty set of lights to actually heat up and melt from leds. Voltage and current affect ea other. The ecu is affected by voltage drop, hence higher current and this would be what causes the heat.
Can it be done? Sure.. is it a simple " let me post on the forum and get the scehmatics and do it in my garage" type thing?
Nah.. not so much.
Again it would seem as long as you got your leds fired up its all good, but the fact is that in some odd way, Nissan tied it all in w the ECU and agian, if you know exactly how to fix that even thought the countless aftermarket light guys still cant seem to figure it out, then be our guest.


Back to my first post..good luck n what not, Just saving you the hassle. Leave your taillights alone, get LED signal markers and the end result ( again IMO) will look alot less like a science project.

I gave you fact and also some opinion, the forum is for each. Hope it helps.

 

I've owned and played with lots and lots and lots of LEDs.. The only LEDs that gave off any kind of noticeable heat were the ones that I wired directly to power to blow them up without any kind of resistor for voltage drop....

The LED's in aftermarket tails will have a resistor in series with them to drop the voltage supplied from 12V to whatever voltage the LED's require (typically 2-5v depending on LED)..... Consider that resistor as one assembly as part of the tail light.

The BCM still supplies 12 Volts to the tail light, LED or standard bulb. The only difference between the LED or normal Bulb is that the LED's draw LESS current.

It is this LESS current draw by the LEDs that cause issues with the BCM.

This is the same principle as people who put LED bulbs in for signal lights and wonder why their signal lights flash faster. The Mechanical flasher is designed to work with a specific current, when you put in an LED that draws less current, the flasher flashes faster..

The flasher problem can be solved by adding a resistor in PARALLEL with the signal light's Resistor/LED circuit. the additional resistor will draw additional current causing a similar current draw on the flasher.

I suspect that this solution would also work with the aftermarket LED tail light acceleration problem. That additional resistor would cause the correct current draw from the BCM, essentially fooling the BCM into thinking there was a normal bulb there...

Research Kirchoff's Current Law and Current Divider Rule to understand it a little better.

 

There are actually some high power LED's that give off heat and require heat sinks.. Those are an exception and don't fall into the "normal" LED class.

 

yep, either way, i can bust out a chapter of the MECP study guide too but its the last thing i have the energy for today, haha. Im just trying to get to the short n curlys of it man..

but the point of it all is that this OP has 2 .. (TWO) posts and wants to know about half flashing LED taillights.. cmon man.

He needs the short sweet answer he's really in the market for ...and for this thread to be done before the rest of the crew smells the blood in the water... haha. RUN!!!

(Unsubscribing).

 

Kind of like the G37 but it's not worth going through all the trouble if the end result is power loss or any other kind of failure.
Thanks guys for the quick relply.