oopsies!
So I decided I wanted to debadge the "350z" off the rear hatch Friday so I heated it with a hairdryer and removed each piece 1 by 1 successfully and then cleaned off the remaining adhesive. There was a noticeable color difference between the paint hidden by 350z and the rest of the hatch, so I initially tried buffing to see if it was a simple clearcoat difference. wasnt. next I tried lightly wet sanding the area with 2000 grit. The first time I wiped the area to see my progress, I noticed a spot that I wore all the way through the clearcoat
I should have known, because my hatch is an 03' and had been buffed multiple times and likely only had a thin coat or 2 of clearcoat remaining. So, we (my dad and I) had 3 options.
1. Live with it (it was about quarter sized)
2. Attempt to clearcoat blend just a section of the hatch
3. Re-clear the whole hatch (on OR off the car)
We both take lots of pride in our cars and couldnt just live with the imperfected. So that rules #1 out. Pops said that blending requires pretty hard sanding on the blended area, and he assumed we would probably go right through the weakened clearcoat again if we tried that. So, we did the whole damn hatch. Sanded the whole thing, masked the whole car (since we left it on to spray), and re-cleared the hatch. We sprayed 2 light coats of color over the "350z" and wear through area as well. That blended great, and the clearcoat turned out perfectly as well (after more sanding and buffing). Scared me to death sanding before and after spraying because sanding is what got me into this mess. But I sanded much more conservatively than I had before.
Im bored at work right now, but will post up pictures in the next day or 2. Cant remember if I took pics of the boo boo spot or not...I was pretty pissed so I dont think I did.
Moral of the story: Dont make the mistake I made and debadge your car if its multiple years old and has sat outside and baked in the sun and slightly faded (even though its always been waxed) unless you want to either put the badge back on or reclearcoat your hatch. My car is actually an 06, but its back half is 03 (long story, search my name if you want to see the project).
I should have known, because my hatch is an 03' and had been buffed multiple times and likely only had a thin coat or 2 of clearcoat remaining. So, we (my dad and I) had 3 options.1. Live with it (it was about quarter sized)
2. Attempt to clearcoat blend just a section of the hatch
3. Re-clear the whole hatch (on OR off the car)
We both take lots of pride in our cars and couldnt just live with the imperfected. So that rules #1 out. Pops said that blending requires pretty hard sanding on the blended area, and he assumed we would probably go right through the weakened clearcoat again if we tried that. So, we did the whole damn hatch. Sanded the whole thing, masked the whole car (since we left it on to spray), and re-cleared the hatch. We sprayed 2 light coats of color over the "350z" and wear through area as well. That blended great, and the clearcoat turned out perfectly as well (after more sanding and buffing). Scared me to death sanding before and after spraying because sanding is what got me into this mess. But I sanded much more conservatively than I had before.
Im bored at work right now, but will post up pictures in the next day or 2. Cant remember if I took pics of the boo boo spot or not...I was pretty pissed so I dont think I did.
Moral of the story: Dont make the mistake I made and debadge your car if its multiple years old and has sat outside and baked in the sun and slightly faded (even though its always been waxed) unless you want to either put the badge back on or reclearcoat your hatch. My car is actually an 06, but its back half is 03 (long story, search my name if you want to see the project).
There's a few methods to eliminate the wholes when you shave emblems:
1. (easy) Tap with a round body hammer until each whole is slightly dented in. Then prep and fill with body filler. Sand it smooth then paint over.
2. (harder but proper) Weld the holes shut. Sand smooth (or grind if the weld is too thick) then prep and paint.
1. (easy) Tap with a round body hammer until each whole is slightly dented in. Then prep and fill with body filler. Sand it smooth then paint over.
2. (harder but proper) Weld the holes shut. Sand smooth (or grind if the weld is too thick) then prep and paint.
There's a few methods to eliminate the wholes when you shave emblems:
1. (easy) Tap with a round body hammer until each whole is slightly dented in. Then prep and fill with body filler. Sand it smooth then paint over.
2. (harder but proper) Weld the holes shut. Sand smooth (or grind if the weld is too thick) then prep and paint.
1. (easy) Tap with a round body hammer until each whole is slightly dented in. Then prep and fill with body filler. Sand it smooth then paint over.
2. (harder but proper) Weld the holes shut. Sand smooth (or grind if the weld is too thick) then prep and paint.
2nd method seems much more reliable, but a lot more work..all to remove an emblem! but shoot, look what I went through for mine....
So I decided I wanted to debadge the "350z" off the rear hatch Friday so I heated it with a hairdryer and removed each piece 1 by 1 successfully and then cleaned off the remaining adhesive. There was a noticeable color difference between the paint hidden by 350z and the rest of the hatch, so I initially tried buffing to see if it was a simple clearcoat difference. wasnt. next I tried lightly wet sanding the area with 2000 grit. The first time I wiped the area to see my progress, I noticed a spot that I wore all the way through the clearcoat
I should have known, because my hatch is an 03' and had been buffed multiple times and likely only had a thin coat or 2 of clearcoat remaining. So, we (my dad and I) had 3 options.
1. Live with it (it was about quarter sized)
2. Attempt to clearcoat blend just a section of the hatch
3. Re-clear the whole hatch (on OR off the car)
We both take lots of pride in our cars and couldnt just live with the imperfected. So that rules #1 out. Pops said that blending requires pretty hard sanding on the blended area, and he assumed we would probably go right through the weakened clearcoat again if we tried that. So, we did the whole damn hatch. Sanded the whole thing, masked the whole car (since we left it on to spray), and re-cleared the hatch. We sprayed 2 light coats of color over the "350z" and wear through area as well. That blended great, and the clearcoat turned out perfectly as well (after more sanding and buffing). Scared me to death sanding before and after spraying because sanding is what got me into this mess. But I sanded much more conservatively than I had before.
Im bored at work right now, but will post up pictures in the next day or 2. Cant remember if I took pics of the boo boo spot or not...I was pretty pissed so I dont think I did.
Moral of the story: Dont make the mistake I made and debadge your car if its multiple years old and has sat outside and baked in the sun and slightly faded (even though its always been waxed) unless you want to either put the badge back on or reclearcoat your hatch. My car is actually an 06, but its back half is 03 (long story, search my name if you want to see the project).
I should have known, because my hatch is an 03' and had been buffed multiple times and likely only had a thin coat or 2 of clearcoat remaining. So, we (my dad and I) had 3 options.1. Live with it (it was about quarter sized)
2. Attempt to clearcoat blend just a section of the hatch
3. Re-clear the whole hatch (on OR off the car)
We both take lots of pride in our cars and couldnt just live with the imperfected. So that rules #1 out. Pops said that blending requires pretty hard sanding on the blended area, and he assumed we would probably go right through the weakened clearcoat again if we tried that. So, we did the whole damn hatch. Sanded the whole thing, masked the whole car (since we left it on to spray), and re-cleared the hatch. We sprayed 2 light coats of color over the "350z" and wear through area as well. That blended great, and the clearcoat turned out perfectly as well (after more sanding and buffing). Scared me to death sanding before and after spraying because sanding is what got me into this mess. But I sanded much more conservatively than I had before.
Im bored at work right now, but will post up pictures in the next day or 2. Cant remember if I took pics of the boo boo spot or not...I was pretty pissed so I dont think I did.
Moral of the story: Dont make the mistake I made and debadge your car if its multiple years old and has sat outside and baked in the sun and slightly faded (even though its always been waxed) unless you want to either put the badge back on or reclearcoat your hatch. My car is actually an 06, but its back half is 03 (long story, search my name if you want to see the project).
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Got a few of the pics to put up:

Thats me sad, guilty, and sanding

You can possibly make out the darker spot near the missing "350z" badge...thats the sanded through spot. Masking sucks, btw

Post clearcoat

Spot turned out nicely with the flash of red paint, then clear

Thats me sad, guilty, and sanding

You can possibly make out the darker spot near the missing "350z" badge...thats the sanded through spot. Masking sucks, btw

Post clearcoat

Spot turned out nicely with the flash of red paint, then clear
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Juztin
Wheels Tires
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Jul 29, 2013 06:57 PM
Sp00led Ya
2003-2009 Nissan 350Z
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Jan 7, 2010 12:30 PM
L. Baggins
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Jun 4, 2008 04:19 AM








