I shaved the firewall with pics
06-15-2012, 05:35 AM
#41
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The brake side of things is going away, currently on a manual master cylinder and pushing through the ABS valve (for proportioning), in all hopes I will be migrating to a dual circuit manual master cylinder with proportioning valves and a push bar.
06-15-2012, 05:45 AM
#42
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well a strut bar main purpose is to connect the top of the two suspenion mounting areas in the the front of the chassis and prevent them from twisting during weight transfer that happen during turning.
not sure if the main intention was to use the engine as the third point an a strut bar design, since the engine moves alot during driving, and itself is on a non-rigid mount (unless he went to a solid mount) so i dont think it's meant to be a strut bar replacement, but rather an engine brace.. (i think?)
imho, i would still fab up a bar that goes above it to link the two strut towers for a legit brace..
not sure if the main intention was to use the engine as the third point an a strut bar design, since the engine moves alot during driving, and itself is on a non-rigid mount (unless he went to a solid mount) so i dont think it's meant to be a strut bar replacement, but rather an engine brace.. (i think?)
imho, i would still fab up a bar that goes above it to link the two strut towers for a legit brace..
I do carry an extra lower intake manifold, and upper/lower plenum to the track just in case I am wrong.
Also make a 2 point brace doesn't make sense to me, but I am an electrical engineer and not a mechanical Engineer. But I remember 2 points make a line and three points make a plane.
If you only have two points for strut braces; then if you put harsh upward force on one strut then some of that force is going to get transmitted to downforce onto the other tire. I'm not entirely sure I want to shock a tire that already, presumably, is loaded.
I just went for a statically stiffer chassis setup with the solid mounts, the upper brace is just eye candy, IMO and representative in my data.
06-15-2012, 06:43 AM
#44
The car is fast.... and crazy loud! Besides feeling every bump in the road and needing to smash the brake pedal just to slow down a little... I absolutely love it, and 2bad240, I have a hard time not chopping my car up more then it already is... however, I still like to drive mine on the street.
06-15-2012, 10:16 AM
#46
Also make a 2 point brace doesn't make sense to me, but I am an electrical engineer and not a mechanical Engineer. But I remember 2 points make a line and three points make a plane.
If you only have two points for strut braces; then if you put harsh upward force on one strut then some of that force is going to get transmitted to downforce onto the other tire. I'm not entirely sure I want to shock a tire that already, presumably, is loaded.
If you only have two points for strut braces; then if you put harsh upward force on one strut then some of that force is going to get transmitted to downforce onto the other tire. I'm not entirely sure I want to shock a tire that already, presumably, is loaded.
i dont think it's a shock to the other side, since preventing frame twist/flex between to sides of the frame would better. what you claim as just "two" points, if you take an imaginary slice through the car, where the two strut towers are, the bottom are already connected via the lower control arms, however the top struts and top of frame are unconnected, so its like a "U" ... when you put the strut brace over the two towers, you complete a box, which creates a more solid structure. the forces acting on the other loaded tire, you say, is already being transfering into the frame, causing flex, then causing the need for more driver input when the rest of the chassis is reacting to the rest of the forces.
as far a "three point" structure, techically what you have is still two points imho for the strut towers connecting to each other, since a real third point would be the back of the original fire wall area near the windshield to prevent the entire engine bay area from flexing upward and creating a true triangle structure.
even with your solid engine mounts, i would say watch those mount points simply due to the material of the hardware used and what it's bolted into. maybe you should talk to a mechanical engineer...
06-15-2012, 04:36 PM
#47
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i dont think it's a shock to the other side, since preventing frame twist/flex between to sides of the frame would better. what you claim as just "two" points, if you take an imaginary slice through the car, where the two strut towers are, the bottom are already connected via the lower control arms, however the top struts and top of frame are unconnected, so its like a "U" ... when you put the strut brace over the two towers, you complete a box, which creates a more solid structure. the forces acting on the other loaded tire, you say, is already being transfering into the frame, causing flex, then causing the need for more driver input when the rest of the chassis is reacting to the rest of the forces.
as far a "three point" structure, techically what you have is still two points imho for the strut towers connecting to each other, since a real third point would be the back of the original fire wall area near the windshield to prevent the entire engine bay area from flexing upward and creating a true triangle structure.
even with your solid engine mounts, i would say watch those mount points simply due to the material of the hardware used and what it's bolted into. maybe you should talk to a mechanical engineer...
as far a "three point" structure, techically what you have is still two points imho for the strut towers connecting to each other, since a real third point would be the back of the original fire wall area near the windshield to prevent the entire engine bay area from flexing upward and creating a true triangle structure.
even with your solid engine mounts, i would say watch those mount points simply due to the material of the hardware used and what it's bolted into. maybe you should talk to a mechanical engineer...
06-16-2012, 05:32 PM
#48
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Well update from the shake down.
everything went fairly well, the manual brakes take some getting used to.
no major drama, other than she cut off on me on a hot lap, the pushed the clutch in and she died. she didn't want to restart, so she got back on the trailer, We'll tear into her next week.
Prolly something simple like crank angle or whatnot. But instructing and running Grid doesn't leave a lot of time to work on a car for me.
I'll be rocking the Yaris tomorrow
everything went fairly well, the manual brakes take some getting used to.
no major drama, other than she cut off on me on a hot lap, the pushed the clutch in and she died. she didn't want to restart, so she got back on the trailer, We'll tear into her next week.
Prolly something simple like crank angle or whatnot. But instructing and running Grid doesn't leave a lot of time to work on a car for me.
I'll be rocking the Yaris tomorrow
06-17-2012, 01:15 AM
#50
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LOL, I'm telling ya, if the Z wasn't so far down that road I would srsly have a yaris track car. not that it is that good or anything, it is just fun. SO much understeer, so little power, it really is a good teaching tool. only one way to be quick in a yaris, many ways to be slow.
06-17-2012, 02:14 PM
#52
LOL, I'm telling ya, if the Z wasn't so far down that road I would srsly have a yaris track car. not that it is that good or anything, it is just fun. SO much understeer, so little power, it really is a good teaching tool. only one way to be quick in a yaris, many ways to be slow.
3 wheels of blazing fury!
Wheel 4 is optional for sissies.
06-18-2012, 04:06 AM
#54
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A buddy of mine shot a few pics this weekend at the track
I ran a 1:50.x on my shake down session, which is only about 1.5 seconds off my personal best.
Getting used to the manual brakes was a challenge. I do like them, but I am going to investigate other options for master cylinders. something that takes slightly less pressure, i did find that i was on the brakes longer because I was not able to woah the car down as good as I could before, but again this was a shake down session.
the power from the cams was NICE, the few times I took it all the way to 7300. No fueling issues what so ever with the new system, kept great fuel pressure all the time.
Power steering was drama free, except for a slight seeping of fluid from one fitting, not even a drip just a seep, easy to fix.
looking forward to removing more ABS/VDC stuff from the car, thats a lot of wiring and a LOT of power, the fuse for the ABS pump is a 60A, the VDC computer has a 40A fuse, and so on. I'll be able to reduce down to a single fuse block soon.
I ran a 1:50.x on my shake down session, which is only about 1.5 seconds off my personal best.
Getting used to the manual brakes was a challenge. I do like them, but I am going to investigate other options for master cylinders. something that takes slightly less pressure, i did find that i was on the brakes longer because I was not able to woah the car down as good as I could before, but again this was a shake down session.
the power from the cams was NICE, the few times I took it all the way to 7300. No fueling issues what so ever with the new system, kept great fuel pressure all the time.
Power steering was drama free, except for a slight seeping of fluid from one fitting, not even a drip just a seep, easy to fix.
looking forward to removing more ABS/VDC stuff from the car, thats a lot of wiring and a LOT of power, the fuse for the ABS pump is a 60A, the VDC computer has a 40A fuse, and so on. I'll be able to reduce down to a single fuse block soon.
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