Rear Bumper Suggestions?
#24
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I've got all four 30mm. I think it's about perfect.
I had to roll my fenders tho.
But to answer your question. I personally love the vestito gt kit you have posted. Since you have to have the rear first, I'd go ahead and get it, then save for the rest. As to which brand replica to get, I'm not sure. Poor fitting kits will end up costing you more with install though.
I had to roll my fenders tho.
But to answer your question. I personally love the vestito gt kit you have posted. Since you have to have the rear first, I'd go ahead and get it, then save for the rest. As to which brand replica to get, I'm not sure. Poor fitting kits will end up costing you more with install though.
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#26
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Sunken Treasure V710s would fit the color of your car perfectly! We ran a Black Friday/Cyber Monday promo on wheels that could have saved you some money too.
Would have loved to see how that came out on your car.
Would have loved to see how that came out on your car.
#28
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https://my350z.com/forum/wheels-and-...er-thread.html
You will have to roll your fenders. Some people rent/buy a fender roller, I just used the ole baseball bat/heat gun routine. Worked fine, no chipping.
The vestito is the Amuse Vestito GT. The "AMS GT" bumper you have posted is a replica of that kit. I personally love it, there are a couple different companies that make replicas of that kit.
But I agree with the guys. I'd just fix your existing bumper (unless insurance is paying for the new rear) and use the excess money to focus on other areas.
#29
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I have project kics. They are easy to install. It sounds like you need to read this:
https://my350z.com/forum/wheels-and-...er-thread.html
You will have to roll your fenders. Some people rent/buy a fender roller, I just used the ole baseball bat/heat gun routine. Worked fine, no chipping.
The vestito is the Amuse Vestito GT. The "AMS GT" bumper you have posted is a replica of that kit. I personally love it, there are a couple different companies that make replicas of that kit.
But I agree with the guys. I'd just fix your existing bumper (unless insurance is paying for the new rear) and use the excess money to focus on other areas.
https://my350z.com/forum/wheels-and-...er-thread.html
You will have to roll your fenders. Some people rent/buy a fender roller, I just used the ole baseball bat/heat gun routine. Worked fine, no chipping.
The vestito is the Amuse Vestito GT. The "AMS GT" bumper you have posted is a replica of that kit. I personally love it, there are a couple different companies that make replicas of that kit.
But I agree with the guys. I'd just fix your existing bumper (unless insurance is paying for the new rear) and use the excess money to focus on other areas.
Ok, well I got a quote from the guy who painted it, and to buy a rear bumper, and then have it painted to match the car will run me about $2,000. So.... needless to say I'll stick to getting a carbon diffuser, the wheel spacers, and eventually those Sunken Treasure wheels! This paint job is becoming a curse... haha but it's so pretty ;]
Ok so for the project kics I understand I would get the 25 or 30mm's depending on what I feel, but then do I also have to get the 25mm or 30mm hub centric rings? I've read that article and Im just trying to digress the information into application... I have a company that can roll my fenders I just need to know what I need to buy to install it all and have a safe rolling car.
Thanks guys!
#31
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Ok, well I got a quote from the guy who painted it, and to buy a rear bumper, and then have it painted to match the car will run me about $2,000. So.... needless to say I'll stick to getting a carbon diffuser, the wheel spacers, and eventually those Sunken Treasure wheels! This paint job is becoming a curse... haha but it's so pretty ;]
Ok so for the project kics I understand I would get the 25 or 30mm's depending on what I feel, but then do I also have to get the 25mm or 30mm hub centric rings? I've read that article and Im just trying to digress the information into application... I have a company that can roll my fenders I just need to know what I need to buy to install it all and have a safe rolling car.
Thanks guys!
Ok so for the project kics I understand I would get the 25 or 30mm's depending on what I feel, but then do I also have to get the 25mm or 30mm hub centric rings? I've read that article and Im just trying to digress the information into application... I have a company that can roll my fenders I just need to know what I need to buy to install it all and have a safe rolling car.
Thanks guys!
You are in luck dude. Z1motorsports is having a Christmas sale on their wheel spacers:
http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=5496
All you'll have to do is:
Remove the wheel.
Slide on spacer.
Torque down the spacer nuts to your lugs. (I torqued to 100ft/lbs)
Then bolt the wheel onto the spacer's lugs.
Everytime I get my oil changed I retorque the spacer nuts just for safety's sake, but they have never been out of spec.
Then what will happen is the inner fender lip will rub the tire when the suspension flexes. To move the fender lip you can:
1: cut it off with a cut off wheel. This will work but it will cause the paint to chip eventually.
2: have a body shop "roll" them. (Which basically means using leverage to bend the lip up out of the way.)
3: grab a baseball bat, a heat gun, and a jack and do the following:
a: jack the car so the suspension is at full droop.
b: wedge the baseball bat between the tire and that fender lip.
c: heat up the inner lip with the heat gun
d: using the tire for a fulcrum, press down on the bat and start bending up the inner lip rolling the bat back and forth. Eventually you will get to a point to where you have no more leverage. At this point you can lower the jack and decrease the space between the tire and the fender. This will allow you to get more leverage to bend it further.
d: keep doing this procedure of heating, bending, and lowering until the car is almost on the ground.
e: once you can't bend it any further with the fat side of the bat, turn it over and use the skinny side to press it flush.
There are some YouTube vids if you search it.
#32
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Initially wanted to get project kics for F&R but didnt have kics in one of the sizes so I ended up with ichiba spacers up front and project kics on the rear....for some reason I prefer the ichiba, think it just seems to be better quality to me. Not knocking anyone that has kic spacers...cause I do myself.
ichiba are hub centric and kics were not...might be another reason I prefer the ichibas
ichiba are hub centric and kics were not...might be another reason I prefer the ichibas
Last edited by vex008; 12-19-2012 at 05:46 AM.
#33
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You are in luck dude. Z1motorsports is having a Christmas sale on their wheel spacers:
http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=5496
All you'll have to do is:
Remove the wheel.
Slide on spacer.
Torque down the spacer nuts to your lugs. (I torqued to 100ft/lbs)
Then bolt the wheel onto the spacer's lugs.
Everytime I get my oil changed I retorque the spacer nuts just for safety's sake, but they have never been out of spec.
Then what will happen is the inner fender lip will rub the tire when the suspension flexes. To move the fender lip you can:
1: cut it off with a cut off wheel. This will work but it will cause the paint to chip eventually.
2: have a body shop "roll" them. (Which basically means using leverage to bend the lip up out of the way.)
3: grab a baseball bat, a heat gun, and a jack and do the following:
a: jack the car so the suspension is at full droop.
b: wedge the baseball bat between the tire and that fender lip.
c: heat up the inner lip with the heat gun
d: using the tire for a fulcrum, press down on the bat and start bending up the inner lip rolling the bat back and forth. Eventually you will get to a point to where you have no more leverage. At this point you can lower the jack and decrease the space between the tire and the fender. This will allow you to get more leverage to bend it further.
d: keep doing this procedure of heating, bending, and lowering until the car is almost on the ground.
e: once you can't bend it any further with the fat side of the bat, turn it over and use the skinny side to press it flush.
There are some YouTube vids if you search it.
http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=5496
All you'll have to do is:
Remove the wheel.
Slide on spacer.
Torque down the spacer nuts to your lugs. (I torqued to 100ft/lbs)
Then bolt the wheel onto the spacer's lugs.
Everytime I get my oil changed I retorque the spacer nuts just for safety's sake, but they have never been out of spec.
Then what will happen is the inner fender lip will rub the tire when the suspension flexes. To move the fender lip you can:
1: cut it off with a cut off wheel. This will work but it will cause the paint to chip eventually.
2: have a body shop "roll" them. (Which basically means using leverage to bend the lip up out of the way.)
3: grab a baseball bat, a heat gun, and a jack and do the following:
a: jack the car so the suspension is at full droop.
b: wedge the baseball bat between the tire and that fender lip.
c: heat up the inner lip with the heat gun
d: using the tire for a fulcrum, press down on the bat and start bending up the inner lip rolling the bat back and forth. Eventually you will get to a point to where you have no more leverage. At this point you can lower the jack and decrease the space between the tire and the fender. This will allow you to get more leverage to bend it further.
d: keep doing this procedure of heating, bending, and lowering until the car is almost on the ground.
e: once you can't bend it any further with the fat side of the bat, turn it over and use the skinny side to press it flush.
There are some YouTube vids if you search it.
Thanks a lot for all that! Are the ones from Z1 motorsports good quality? Everyone is telling me to get either project kics or ichiba? I don't mind spending extra money for quality. I also called the auto shop and they said it would be $40 to roll both my fenders in the rear.
#34
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You can't beat 40 bucks man.
I can't imagine them selling bad spacers. Spacers are a hard thing to screw up manufacturing anyway. I bought a set of 3" off-brand spacers for my h2 and I've never had a problem with them. And I beat the hell out of it off road so, I'd be comfortable buying the ones of Z1.
I can't imagine them selling bad spacers. Spacers are a hard thing to screw up manufacturing anyway. I bought a set of 3" off-brand spacers for my h2 and I've never had a problem with them. And I beat the hell out of it off road so, I'd be comfortable buying the ones of Z1.
#35
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You can't beat 40 bucks man.
I can't imagine them selling bad spacers. Spacers are a hard thing to screw up manufacturing anyway. I bought a set of 3" off-brand spacers for my h2 and I've never had a problem with them. And I beat the hell out of it off road so, I'd be comfortable buying the ones of Z1.
I can't imagine them selling bad spacers. Spacers are a hard thing to screw up manufacturing anyway. I bought a set of 3" off-brand spacers for my h2 and I've never had a problem with them. And I beat the hell out of it off road so, I'd be comfortable buying the ones of Z1.
Also, It said that the one's on the Z1 site have hubcentric rings?
#36
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the ams gt bumper sticks WAY out behind the car.. its very bulky and has a ton of lines.. micks blue cars rear shot is modified as well and is cut and molded out, its not a good pic to start with.
Your car has mostly stock lines.. any bumper out of waht you have described would be the Chargespeed rear bumper.. it blends well w even a stock bodied Z.
Ive owned the Weber style bumper and the fit is not good.
Also, the Nismo style from AIT is not going to fit well.
Replica chargespeed bumpers usually fit just fine, but yes, you certainly ahve other things to change on that ride.. paint aside... blending a new bumper is going to be a 100000% nightmare as the paint direction of spray cant be matched ever. its very directional fromthe spray gun.
headlights. wheel spacers, and yank those taillights, they cause ECU issues.
Your car has mostly stock lines.. any bumper out of waht you have described would be the Chargespeed rear bumper.. it blends well w even a stock bodied Z.
Ive owned the Weber style bumper and the fit is not good.
Also, the Nismo style from AIT is not going to fit well.
Replica chargespeed bumpers usually fit just fine, but yes, you certainly ahve other things to change on that ride.. paint aside... blending a new bumper is going to be a 100000% nightmare as the paint direction of spray cant be matched ever. its very directional fromthe spray gun.
headlights. wheel spacers, and yank those taillights, they cause ECU issues.
#37
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jsut saw posts above.. as for spacers, you need to make sure they are hub AND wheel centric.. ie the center bore is correct 66.1 and also has a hub ring section on the wheel side of the adapter. This is uncommon for the cheapies.
This takes tremendous pressure off the lugs themseves and helps balance the wheel.
This takes tremendous pressure off the lugs themseves and helps balance the wheel.
#38
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jsut saw posts above.. as for spacers, you need to make sure they are hub AND wheel centric.. ie the center bore is correct 66.1 and also has a hub ring section on the wheel side of the adapter. This is uncommon for the cheapies.
This takes tremendous pressure off the lugs themseves and helps balance the wheel.
This takes tremendous pressure off the lugs themseves and helps balance the wheel.
#40
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