Wet sanding for dull paint?
My redline z is starting to get oxidized so I'm thinking about getting it detailed since I got hit by some chick that ran a red light . They told me about 300 to wetsand and buff . Is that reasonable? I have no experience with paint and polishing and detailing. Help me out guys .
Wetsand? sounds like they don't know what they're talking about
I guess it depends on location but here the shop will do it for 150 and that has no wetsanding involved. Just a wax strip, clay bar, polish-paint correction, and seal/wax.The only reason for wetsanding I guess would be to fix a bad scratch, but seeing as you said you got hit thats possible.
Actually, go into the detailing section of the forums and do some research.You should be able to do this yourself with a bit of time, and way less money
I guess it depends on location but here the shop will do it for 150 and that has no wetsanding involved. Just a wax strip, clay bar, polish-paint correction, and seal/wax.The only reason for wetsanding I guess would be to fix a bad scratch, but seeing as you said you got hit thats possible.
Actually, go into the detailing section of the forums and do some research.You should be able to do this yourself with a bit of time, and way less money
Last edited by logan09; Jun 3, 2013 at 09:59 AM.
Invest some money into a good dual action buffer and you should be able to do the job yourself. You can get everything you need for $300 and then you can keep your car in immaculate condition.
Depends on how bad the clear coat is, 2-3,000 grit wet/color sanding is used for paint that's very oxidized. Using rubbing compound to cut the paint isn't always enough to get a glass finish. Wet sanding is a step above your basic detailer who just does a buff/polish/wax.
i charge 600-1500 for paint correction.. wet sanding would def. add more to that tab.. dont think id trust the person that said they would wet sand and buff?? what are they buffing? after wet sanding, they need to at least compound, then polish, then seal.. not to mention the many other steps a pro will do.. no way it will be a professional job that cheap!
$300? Run.... run far far away.
There's no way someone can do that type of work unless they are severely under pricing their work. Post pics so we can see what you are dealing with and recommend a course of action you can do yourself.
There's no way someone can do that type of work unless they are severely under pricing their work. Post pics so we can see what you are dealing with and recommend a course of action you can do yourself.
I'll post a picture later tonight. He's charging me 300 I guess cause he's going to paint my front bumper and hood from the accident I was In. But I have to ask him if he's going to compound polish and seal. Also I've noticed that the paint in my car is kinda thin as my mirrors are already cracking from the clear coat .
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Last edited by Fun40zx; Jun 5, 2013 at 05:12 PM.
Here's the hit from the accident all cause she was late to school and ran the red
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Sorry you got hit, man! Red is a hard color...fades fast usually. If your guy is gonna spray front end, I'd see what he wants to get it all the same shade. Good luck, and post up pics after!
Looks like bad oxidation from never being waxed/protected. If it were me I'd hit it with some Dawn dish detergent to strip the surface, clay, then something like Meguair's M105 and M205 with several orange lake country ccs pads make to remove oxidation and swirls, then a white or red pad for glaze and wax/sealant.
I agree that wetsanding probably isn't necessary on the back (don't really know)... but I'd rather just pay someone to do it. I'd rather not buy a ton of equipment that I'll almost never use. I'd recommend going to the autopia forum and finding a local detailer who is a regular on the site.
Wetsanding with like a 2000 grit paper is pretty close to some really aggressive polishing compounds. But like others have said, that's too cheap. There's 2-3 steps at least to be taken. Plus a final wax
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