I tried to post this last night, for some reason it does not show up, I hope it does not end up doubled.
OK, 2003 coupe, I bought it as is, needing a ton of work. It is actually a one owner 89,000 mile car but unfortunately the original owner let a friend, former friend use this car for 6 mos. The guy never should have been given the keys he damaged many things on what was a nice car. I am working down the list, bumper to bumper trying to get the car back to a nice driving car.
The car came back to the original owner with many problems and many new scratches in the paint. The first fix item, the guy tried to install a new Alternator, messed up on install, shorted it all out, melted the new alternator and melted that part of the wire harness. I installed a new alternator and the wire harness and that part is working perfectly now.
Work so far, new brakes, even the emergency brake, fixed the oil leak at the cooler by pass, changed the oil. Changed the Differential fluid, flushed the brake fluid. Replaced the driver door window motor and the control switches. Still need to fix both doors Lock actuators, parts are ordered. New seat leather coming, maybe tomorrow. Pulled the Radio and soldered the connections as youtube instructed and BAM, now the Radio, AC, Heat and Temp controller and the Navigation screen are all working again. Installed a new Bose Amp so the speakers came back to life.
Pulled a dent out of the rear bumper using a heat gun, this job was actually much easier than I imagined. Fixed an airbag light on the dash had one pinched wire under the seat. So,nothing major but many time eating projects but I am gaining on it. The engine runs great, tranny and differential all work like new.
Now back to the subject at hand, I hope I can share what worked so the next guy saves some time.
I went to open the passenger door, found out it was locked, this door does not have the ability to open with a key. Tried the door lock on the driver door, did not work, tried the door lock on the passenger door, both electric and manual did not work. Door locked and I am stuck.
I read all I could find and the best I found is some guys went to a locksmith or the dealer to fix this issue. I did not find anyone describing how to fix this.

I first tried to remove the door panel from the inside pulled the 3 bolts, no luck, the panel sits hard against the door weatherstrip on the bottom and sides, no way to pop it off normally from the inside.
I took apart the driver door and studied the lock, assuming the two sides are similar. Even with the door panel off and a clear view of the lock I could not find a way to unlock the door using, wire, slim jim or any other tool I had available.
At this point I am thinking I will have to ruin the door panel to open that damn door. I started at the top outside the car, window down, I took some wood wedges, same ones you buy to square up door frames in homes as you install them. These wedges/shims are available at the hardware, pack of 10 or 20 for about $4. I slipped one wedge between the door panel and the door frame, coming in from the outside trying to open a gap between the door frame and the door panel so I could snake a wire down and grab the door cables. Hoping if I pull the door cables up I can get them to open my lock.
One shim is about 10" long, 1 1/2" wide and tapers from a point to about 1/4" in thickness. I slipped the pointed edge in and pushed it carefully in till I had nearly a 1/4 gap between the top of the door panel and the door frame. Trust me, I thought this alone would break my door panel. This is a good door panel I don't wish to ruin. With my 1/4 gap I tried to snake a wire in to grab those cables, no luck, not even close. I added a couple more shims, now I have a wider area in approx the middle of the window sill, still only 1/4" thick. Still no luck, can't grab anything with my coat hanger wire.
I decide I need more room, I doubled up on my shims so two shims stacked in 3 places, now my gap is nearly 1/2"wide, still no go, the door panel is shaped to hug the door frame shape so there is not enough space to get to my door lock cables. I added a third shim, still not enough room and no luck. The door panel has made many sounds as I did this, I thought I was breaking up my panel.
At this point I went nuclear. I was about 3 hours into this fiasco and decided to go ahead and pop the top of the panel wider even if it breaks. I took a Pry Bar, carpenters steel pry bar about 15" long, 1.5" wide and had a curve on one end and a nail puller 90* on the other end. With this for more leverage and the existing gap with my wedges I was able to slip the pry bar into the gap and slowly, very slowly open the gap up to about 1.5" wide at the top between my door panel and the door metal frame. Very scary, again I thought it would break but it did not. I inserted a couple wood blocks that were small enough to slip into the 1.5" gap and hold the panel open so I could go after the wires again. This time it was very easy, I could see down into the door panel clearly, spot the wires and pulled them up with my coat hanger wire with a hook on the end. Now one pull on the door lock cable and the door unlocked instantly. I opened the door slowly since the door panel is now half off. Once the door was open I removed the door panel normally starting at the bottom and working my way up.
No money involved, no locksmith charges, no parts ruined, my door panel is still perfect although I am really surprised because I bent it out away from the door to get in. I think with this knowledge I could open the door in about 20 minutes with a do over.
Since I took the door panel and spread the gap so slowly using the wood shims and then finally the pry bar I think that helped me not break the panel. I think if I started with the pry bar I might have damaged the outside trim and the door panel but that is just my opinion.
I took some pictures and will try to post them. Again I did this last night and the post evaporated so I hope it works this time. Maybe this will help some other locked out poor soul!
Mark

 

OK, tonight it posted so I will try to add the photos. (The car does have matching rims on it now, one of my first fixes) I just realized there are no pictures of the door shims/wedges I used. I had about 9 of them in use to spread the door initially before I went to the pry bar and larger wood pieces to hold the door gap open. PS: I know this is a G35 and not a 350z but your forum helped me fix other issues so I thought your forum should get the help. And they are the same car from what I can tell.

 

I had the same problem with my passenger door. I didn't have to use all the prying methods that you used. The rod hook setup you made would have worked alone. There is a blue tab on a rod inside the door by the door handle. You can see it pretty easy with a flash light if you look inside where the window goes down (It may also be covered in dust and hard to see the blue, but it's there). Just hook the rod with the blue tab and pull up, it will click up. The door will unlock manually then. I think you did a good job by not destroying door panels like I have seen people do in the past.

 

I thought that should work but when I tried on the drive door I could not get it to unlatch. I had clear sight since the door was open and the panel off. Even when I gripped it with my fingers, no wire, It would not release the door? I thought it should have been a simple pull or push.
That is why I went to the extreme panel removal. I did have the wire on that rod you mentioned, getting that hooked was pretty easy but I never got it to release the door? Oh, well, it is now done. The new Door Lock actuators arrived so I will install them and hopefully be done with projects for a while. Thanks.

 

I would have just had the passenger dukes of hazard it..

 

In my case, auto locksmith near me has unlocked the door for me when it's working opening.