Majority of body kits made are constructed out of fiberglass, which is an exact building and molding material crucial to molding your kit. Applicable to any car, you need fiberglass mats, long n short hair, a container of short strand fiberglass and a can of good bondo.

Genuinely loads of types of grit sandpaper work, especially if you need to shave off more faster. I like to work with 36,80,180,220,320 and scotch brite. A sanding block (soft) and DA. That alone will get you incredibly far.

Rivet and install your kit in the desired location, im assuming you already have it measured out and a good idea as to what you want to create.
Post proper kit installation, you can begin morphing your vision into reality.
Grind down the area around the edges of the kit, including the actual kit. You want the metal on the fenders + quarters stripped and scuffed good. You want as aggressive as a surface possible to get the fiberglass to adhere better. Grind down everything your molding to the body. You don’t need to grind down everything and go crazy, purely where your applying your means.

I took mine up to my fender lines to achieve a flush smooth seamless appearance. A lot of people enjoy rivets. This is a perfect way to get rid of them if you dislike them as well, nothing wrong with them, your leaving them in for structural support and integrity, not appearance. No panel bond or 3m tape necessary.

post grinding, mix your fiberglass. Apply it firmly and smoothly eliminating pinholes and bubbles. Make sure to clean area off before applying, for best adhering ability. Let harden and grind off, 36 grit works too just takes a while if you don’t have a grinder handy. Clean off area and mix up your filler. Use the hardener as needed for how fast you’d like it to dry, take into account the weather and humidity (if hot use less, if it’s cold out use more type of thing). Apply filler exact same way, ensuring smootheness.

Sanding the filler:

Grit goes lower to higher for primer to paint finish. 36 to 80 to 180 to 220 to 320 to scotch. Skipping steps makes the bodywork have “scratches” and look bad in the light in the end. Don’t skip steps, take your time. go higher grit if you’d like, personal preference.

this is where it gets creative, if your working with a lot of negative space like me (creating your edges rather than using OEM lines such as my rear bumper morph from kit to bumper) your definitely going to want to use your block or hand, or something nearby that’s round and smooth. You get to create exactly where your body line edge will meet, covering the rivets and ultimately morphing your kit. It takes time, and each panel is different. (My fenders mold up to the OEM lines, the rear quarters had to be blended out)
Keep in mind symmetry is the goal, and measuring helps with lining up curves. You can genuinely create extra aero indents, holes, deletes, cover up holes, make new body lines hard or soft, or make your car smooth as hell like I did.

Genuinely an extremely rewarding process, and is obtainable. Just takes time..

Any questions on bodywork or more specifically on bodykits, feel free to ask

 

How is the radiator supposed to get air?

 

I question how it's going to cool and also why it's needed at all. I'm on 275/305 tires with stock fenders and that's a LOT of tire.

 

At least there isn't wood and sheetmetal screws in this one.

 

Gosh, you asked if you could and not if you should.

 

With good airflow from underneath

 

It’s about doing whatever you’d like to your car. The bounds of fabrication are endless.

 

There wouldn’t be… in any sense… or be in any kit…. I completed it with professional grade quality out of my bodyshop.

 

looks like a tesla and 350 had an ugly baby

 

While non-stock “widebody kits” are not my thing, I admire the work and tenacity to build your vision of what your car should look like. Good job.

I dabbled briefly in building fiberglass parts for cars. “Briefly” is the key word. The fumes and chop gun itches didn’t agree with me. 😆

 

Looks like a transformer who stopped transitioning half way though.
Good work though.
I used to mold body kits 15-20 years ago, I would literally kick the side or front of my bumper for people who though it would crack. I would install metal supports on the bottom lips and sides in addition to fiberglassing/fasteners.
These pics are from 2005

 

Thats not how that works unless there are diversion panels underneath with a V mount rad or something similar. Its like driving with the window open vs driving with your head out of the window. What has more airflow?

 

He gets airflow from the hood-bumper gap

Ok, I'm done roasting. It's your car do what you want with it and I respect the work involved

 

Thank you so much for acknowledging the endless nights! It definitely took an immense amount of work to make the car exactly how I envisioned, but I couldn’t be happier with how it looks. It took a while to get used to the fumes and sanding dust when I first started bodywork. I appreciate your comment, cheers.

 

All in all, if the temps are the same it doesn’t matter if the windows glued shut. My z ha really good temps, I specifically made the area underneath wider allowing for more airfloe up underneath. Cars don’t just “breathe@ through the front

 

Thank you I appreciate it, and I built off the OEM bumper. They’re notorious for the gap, a lot of bumpers for z’s are like that. I actually created a brace to attempt to help support it, and it did a justice.

 

I really appreciate your comment, those kits you’d create are pretty cool. I could never ever imagine kicking one of my cars, but to everyone their own. That literally shows the durability of your work, very cool. Also the intricacy of the kit is awesome. I admire your work, especially if you made all of it! Have you dabbled with anything recently? I’d love to see some of your projects! Cheers.

 

This was a 2001 kia sephia, I bought a bomex body kit from a civic, 2005 corolla plastic headlights that came with no clear cover, a tiburon spoiler and the rear taillights were aftermarket RSX taillights that I cut up.

The front bumper was cut in 4 places to make fit. The top vent in the front was more or less gapped evenly with the bottom vent. The side vents near the tires were gapped evenly with the front contours.
I think the spoiler was actually the hardest because that's molded in also and getting your hand in there to manually sand sucked.
I don't have my pictures from the olden days, but here's a turbo wrangler that I used to have and I molded a dragon nose hood scoop to get the intercooler I top-mounted some air.

Also a del-sol which the kit was almost 4" too wide in the front on each side and about 2" in the back

 

A radiator doesnt breathe, it radiators heat hence the name. It works by cross sectional airflow through the fins on its core. The bottom is usually sealed to divert all air with minimal turbulence through the air dam. Every car, truck and van has a vented grill to force air through the rad unless it has no rad because its electric like a Tesla. If it worked so far for you, more power to you. But you cant deny the science to justify the inefficiency of your design.

 

It’s not denying science, it has plenty of room to radiate. No skid plate underneath, that’s where majority of the cold air ones from. Works insanely well