Rocket bunny body kit
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Rocket bunny body kit
Looking for opinions …what company makes the “best” knock off Rocket bunny kit ? Yes I’m aware that it’s always best to go authentic but honestly I’m not paying 3k for a body kit 🤷🏾♂️ Sooo knock off it is … I got a dam good body guy but I’d like to start with something halfway decent if possible any opinions are welcome even the ones that say just save up and buy a real kit
Pic for attention
Pic for attention
#2
******
iTrader: (1)
Is the LS swap even finished yet?
The following users liked this post:
iideadeyeii (11-02-2022)
#3
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Thread Starter
The following 2 users liked this post by iideadeyeii:
1BaddLSZ (11-02-2022),
ChildishhZ (11-02-2022)
#5
******
iTrader: (1)
Asking a question about something you never followed up on telling us about is giving the community a bad name? I think defensive replies like yours is what does that.
#6
New Member
Thread Starter
maybe word your question differently to get a different response..when you ask someone did you “ever” finish something it sounds bad so you get the reply you get had your ask if finished my other project my response would have been different..just my thoughts take it how you need to 🤷🏾♂️
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#8
New Member
Thread Starter
how about this yes I’m 43 and living my best life own my house happily married with kids and I have a great career and yes I want a RB kit why? Because I just do and honestly I don’t have to prove or justify anything to anyone so if you can’t answer my question just move on ..anything else ??
#9
hatersgonnahate
iTrader: (162)
how about this yes I’m 43 and living my best life own my house happily married with kids and I have a great career and yes I want a RB kit why? Because I just do and honestly I don’t have to prove or justify anything to anyone so if you can’t answer my question just move on ..anything else ??
So...lets see the LS swapped Z running, next to your other Z.
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fullvietFX (11-16-2022)
#13
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iTrader: (1)
So there is none
#14
Super Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
iTrader: (8)
Let’s get back to the bunny kit
#16
New Member
iTrader: (11)
Y'all are missing the important question, like is that LS swapped car any faster than a FBO DE in the same chassis. IMO that's the only question that should be asked, cause people like to think they are "upgrading".
Upgrading would be getting a Corvette chassis with that LS lol.
But seriously tho, I don't understand what people see in those kits, they are HIDEOUS and look like stuck on garbage. TJ Hunt ruined the new Z even more with that "wide body" of his.
Upgrading would be getting a Corvette chassis with that LS lol.
But seriously tho, I don't understand what people see in those kits, they are HIDEOUS and look like stuck on garbage. TJ Hunt ruined the new Z even more with that "wide body" of his.
#19
350Z/370Z Tech Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
Let's clarify a few things...
To set up where this is coming from, "I" built a molded flare S30 in 1979 or so. After I finished ONE rear fender, I realized "I" was NOT a body guy. Dropped my rivet gun, body hammer, and had it all professionally finished including installing complete front fenders, (not tack-on over fenders). I spent $5k in parts (the cheap part), body, paint and it looked great. But, keep in mind those are in 1979 dollars.
Now, today's topic...
First, the original Kei Miura/Pandem design kit will run $4500 (complete kit), not $3k, for natural, unfinished pieces. So that will require LOTS of bodywork just to get the pieces themselves up to primer-ready state.
Then, there's the color matching (or complete car paint), expert installation. At the low end, to do it right, probably $5k
Following (or during all that) is the suspension, rolling stock (tires/wheels) to fit the kit properly.
Custom built wheels in 11" and 13" widths with big negative offsets will easily run $5k or more plus another couple of grand on the correct 315 and 335 width tires. I've seen people run "normal", off-the-shelf 10.5s with 285s, huge spacers. Trust me, that just looks lame. Not to mention my internal thoughts.... "Ohhh, those poor wheel bearings..."
Sure, buying a replica kit will save you on the initial purchase but factor these other things in to do it right AND especially "getting the replica kit to even fit" aspect someone referenced, is key and a HUGE added cost in shop labor. The savings on "fake vs. real" will be eaten up immediately on the labor there.
In any event, if you aren't deterred at spending $15k PLUS to do it right, then go for it. But let me stop being objective and get right to the meat... my two-cent opinion, that is. A poorly installed body kit of any kind, RB or otherwise, makes a car (any car) look positively laughable, IMO. Done right with properly fitted panels, good paint work, right wheels... looks pretty good. But trust me, I've seen so many bad examples that I've given up on even thinking I'll ever see a "perfect" installation.
.
I don't talk much about replicas here because, well, I hate fake stuff produced in cheap materials (that invariably fail over the short term) and ripping off those that have taken the time and expense to do it right. Again, IMO.
Here's a good example of a "fake kit testimonial" (and I can't say I disagree):
In any event, I always like to see a good "any-custom-bodywork" done so have at it.
To set up where this is coming from, "I" built a molded flare S30 in 1979 or so. After I finished ONE rear fender, I realized "I" was NOT a body guy. Dropped my rivet gun, body hammer, and had it all professionally finished including installing complete front fenders, (not tack-on over fenders). I spent $5k in parts (the cheap part), body, paint and it looked great. But, keep in mind those are in 1979 dollars.
Now, today's topic...
First, the original Kei Miura/Pandem design kit will run $4500 (complete kit), not $3k, for natural, unfinished pieces. So that will require LOTS of bodywork just to get the pieces themselves up to primer-ready state.
Then, there's the color matching (or complete car paint), expert installation. At the low end, to do it right, probably $5k
Following (or during all that) is the suspension, rolling stock (tires/wheels) to fit the kit properly.
Custom built wheels in 11" and 13" widths with big negative offsets will easily run $5k or more plus another couple of grand on the correct 315 and 335 width tires. I've seen people run "normal", off-the-shelf 10.5s with 285s, huge spacers. Trust me, that just looks lame. Not to mention my internal thoughts.... "Ohhh, those poor wheel bearings..."
Sure, buying a replica kit will save you on the initial purchase but factor these other things in to do it right AND especially "getting the replica kit to even fit" aspect someone referenced, is key and a HUGE added cost in shop labor. The savings on "fake vs. real" will be eaten up immediately on the labor there.
In any event, if you aren't deterred at spending $15k PLUS to do it right, then go for it. But let me stop being objective and get right to the meat... my two-cent opinion, that is. A poorly installed body kit of any kind, RB or otherwise, makes a car (any car) look positively laughable, IMO. Done right with properly fitted panels, good paint work, right wheels... looks pretty good. But trust me, I've seen so many bad examples that I've given up on even thinking I'll ever see a "perfect" installation.
.
I don't talk much about replicas here because, well, I hate fake stuff produced in cheap materials (that invariably fail over the short term) and ripping off those that have taken the time and expense to do it right. Again, IMO.
Here's a good example of a "fake kit testimonial" (and I can't say I disagree):
In any event, I always like to see a good "any-custom-bodywork" done so have at it.