Wiring a switch for LED sidemarkers
03-18-2004, 10:24 AM
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Wiring a switch for LED sidemarkers
So I have been thinking of going with LED sidemarkers, but I am really concerned with getting pulled over for speeding or something and having them write me a ticket for these as well. I have decided to put a switch to them to turn them on and off at will. It seems trivial but when i look around for switches I dont even know where to start. I have found this, any of you guys know what is going to be needed to do this!?! light switch i found
That is all I have found that could possibly work, anything at all would be of great help! Thanks!
That is all I have found that could possibly work, anything at all would be of great help! Thanks!
03-18-2004, 10:47 AM
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Re: Wiring a switch for LED sidemarkers
Why not get the switch for the heated seats (Touring)? They fit nicely on the center console and have built in lights. The only thing you'd have to do would be paint it or somehow remove the picture of the seat from it.
03-18-2004, 11:06 AM
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Re: Wiring a switch for LED sidemarkers
Also check out http://cars.potn.com/default.php/cPath/2913_3185.htm
They have a few cool switches
They have a few cool switches
03-18-2004, 11:14 AM
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If you just need something simple, PepBoys would carry something...plus if you make the switch hidden, it won't really matter what it looks like. Here's what I did on my 3.5 Altima I had. I got the switches from PepBoys, and they all light up when on:
03-18-2004, 11:34 AM
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Originally posted by D@ActiveTuning
If you just need something simple, PepBoys would carry something...plus if you make the switch hidden, it won't really matter what it looks like. Here's what I did on my 3.5 Altima I had. I got the switches from PepBoys, and they all light up when on:
If you just need something simple, PepBoys would carry something...plus if you make the switch hidden, it won't really matter what it looks like. Here's what I did on my 3.5 Altima I had. I got the switches from PepBoys, and they all light up when on:
Last edited by Conceyted; 03-18-2004 at 11:38 AM.
03-18-2004, 11:41 AM
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Yeah if you're hiding the switch, go to pepboys and buy a cheapy metal one and just mount it wherever. Even if you go to like Circuit City they may have one lying around that they can give you at no cost because they come with remote starts and don't need to be used all the time.
In terms of what my setup was, the 1st was for the underbody neon kit, 2nd was an amp kill switch, 3rd was to turn on LEDs in the footwell, and the **** below was for the remote bass control.
If you're not going to make the switch hidden, definitely take some time and find some switches that you think will look clean showing in the interior, and placement plays a big part too.
Another option is to mount something like a plain black toggle switch like in a compartment in the center console...so for example when you want to turn the lights on, you open the compartment on the center console, flck the toggle switch, and you're all set. This way it's hidden, and if you choose the right switch ,it still looks clean. Plus if you don't plan on turning on the lights when the car isn't on, you can power it up through the cigarette lighter, so running wires won't be too bad.
In terms of what my setup was, the 1st was for the underbody neon kit, 2nd was an amp kill switch, 3rd was to turn on LEDs in the footwell, and the **** below was for the remote bass control.
If you're not going to make the switch hidden, definitely take some time and find some switches that you think will look clean showing in the interior, and placement plays a big part too.
Another option is to mount something like a plain black toggle switch like in a compartment in the center console...so for example when you want to turn the lights on, you open the compartment on the center console, flck the toggle switch, and you're all set. This way it's hidden, and if you choose the right switch ,it still looks clean. Plus if you don't plan on turning on the lights when the car isn't on, you can power it up through the cigarette lighter, so running wires won't be too bad.
03-18-2004, 11:46 AM
#7
why not just turn off the car when pulled over, and headlights while your at it. unless you want them always on then continue as you were.
I had pepboys rocker switches that lit up, I used them to power piaa fogs and clip lights on my truck. they broke. dont know how, but I assume because there was too much current going through them, they needed to be on a relay.
the metal ones tend to be a bit heavier duty.
I had pepboys rocker switches that lit up, I used them to power piaa fogs and clip lights on my truck. they broke. dont know how, but I assume because there was too much current going through them, they needed to be on a relay.
the metal ones tend to be a bit heavier duty.
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03-18-2004, 11:48 AM
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Originally posted by D@ActiveTuning
Yeah if you're hiding the switch, go to pepboys and buy a cheapy metal one and just mount it wherever. Even if you go to like Circuit City they may have one lying around that they can give you at no cost because they come with remote starts and don't need to be used all the time.
In terms of what my setup was, the 1st was for the underbody neon kit, 2nd was an amp kill switch, 3rd was to turn on LEDs in the footwell, and the **** below was for the remote bass control.
If you're not going to make the switch hidden, definitely take some time and find some switches that you think will look clean showing in the interior, and placement plays a big part too.
Another option is to mount something like a plain black toggle switch like in a compartment in the center console...so for example when you want to turn the lights on, you open the compartment on the center console, flck the toggle switch, and you're all set. This way it's hidden, and if you choose the right switch ,it still looks clean. Plus if you don't plan on turning on the lights when the car isn't on, you can power it up through the cigarette lighter, so running wires won't be too bad.
Yeah if you're hiding the switch, go to pepboys and buy a cheapy metal one and just mount it wherever. Even if you go to like Circuit City they may have one lying around that they can give you at no cost because they come with remote starts and don't need to be used all the time.
In terms of what my setup was, the 1st was for the underbody neon kit, 2nd was an amp kill switch, 3rd was to turn on LEDs in the footwell, and the **** below was for the remote bass control.
If you're not going to make the switch hidden, definitely take some time and find some switches that you think will look clean showing in the interior, and placement plays a big part too.
Another option is to mount something like a plain black toggle switch like in a compartment in the center console...so for example when you want to turn the lights on, you open the compartment on the center console, flck the toggle switch, and you're all set. This way it's hidden, and if you choose the right switch ,it still looks clean. Plus if you don't plan on turning on the lights when the car isn't on, you can power it up through the cigarette lighter, so running wires won't be too bad.
ps: is that correct ares?
03-18-2004, 11:48 AM
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Originally posted by ares
why not just turn off the car when pulled over, and headlights while your at it. unless you want them always on then continue as you were.
I had pepboys rocker switches that lit up, I used them to power piaa fogs and clip lights on my truck. they broke. dont know how, but I assume because there was too much current going through them, they needed to be on a relay.
the metal ones tend to be a bit heavier duty.
why not just turn off the car when pulled over, and headlights while your at it. unless you want them always on then continue as you were.
I had pepboys rocker switches that lit up, I used them to power piaa fogs and clip lights on my truck. they broke. dont know how, but I assume because there was too much current going through them, they needed to be on a relay.
the metal ones tend to be a bit heavier duty.
03-18-2004, 11:51 AM
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^^ If that's the case, that could get complicated since if the headlights are on, your parking lights are on, which means the lights are always getting current...so how to get them to blink when the turn signal is giving it current....
03-18-2004, 11:57 AM
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Originally posted by D@ActiveTuning
^^ If that's the case, that could get complicated since if the headlights are on, your parking lights are on, which means the lights are always getting current...so how to get them to blink when the turn signal is giving it current....
^^ If that's the case, that could get complicated since if the headlights are on, your parking lights are on, which means the lights are always getting current...so how to get them to blink when the turn signal is giving it current....
03-18-2004, 11:59 AM
#13
first D active, your right there, parking lights are on, so they wouldnt and dont blink. the setup isnt perfect. but during the day when the parking lights arent on, they do blink. its a nice step foward to the previous options of doubling the number of LEDs or using relays that had the opposite problem of only blinking when the parking lights were on.
if anyone has a better idea without getting into expensive circuitry, Im all ears.
as for your question concey, thats simple and probably even preferable. put the switch in the ground line. its a single common ground, you can wire it up to the front, into the switch and then to any bolt you find under the dash. no chance of a short since it carries no current.
if anyone has a better idea without getting into expensive circuitry, Im all ears.
as for your question concey, thats simple and probably even preferable. put the switch in the ground line. its a single common ground, you can wire it up to the front, into the switch and then to any bolt you find under the dash. no chance of a short since it carries no current.
03-18-2004, 12:00 PM
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Yeah you may want to find out....it's probably one or the other...whichever way you wire it up 
I'm sure it's POSSIBLE though. As for wires, pepboys again will have something for real cheap. The wires for the switch don't have to be that long, but from the sidemarkers to the switch have to be decent...but really not TOO bad.
I'm sure it's POSSIBLE though. As for wires, pepboys again will have something for real cheap. The wires for the switch don't have to be that long, but from the sidemarkers to the switch have to be decent...but really not TOO bad.
03-18-2004, 12:02 PM
#15
the setup has 2 lines, it could have 3, 10, 50, well ok not 10 or 50 cause theres no space. but all its doing is giving more ways to get current.
as long as 1 of the lines is hot, the LEDs are on. if 2 are hot, doesnt matter, still on. has to have 1 to be on. so if one is always hot, then the second will never do anything.
as long as 1 of the lines is hot, the LEDs are on. if 2 are hot, doesnt matter, still on. has to have 1 to be on. so if one is always hot, then the second will never do anything.
03-18-2004, 12:02 PM
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Originally posted by ares
if anyone has a better idea without getting into expensive circuitry, Im all ears.
if anyone has a better idea without getting into expensive circuitry, Im all ears.
Good idea though with them working when the parking lights are off! I may just have to modify the EVO-R's to work that way. Just running a simple positive wire to the turn signals would allow that to work, right?
03-18-2004, 12:09 PM
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Alright! I am excited now, I think your ground wire idea is PERFECT! that way its real easy to wire and no need to worry about blowing anything because I am not dealing with any currents! Hmm, now I am not sure I want them to even blink at all, I think it would only look good blinking when the headlights are on, maybe i can get you to only put one set of wires in the set i order? I will be ordering soon so start preparing! haha
03-18-2004, 12:29 PM
#19
they can go together thats no problem. and they can go together wherever along the line its easiest. like you could combine them in the engine bay and pass 1 wire through the firewall.
when they blink it would be with the turn signals, but thats personal preference, no problem to not have that.
dactive. close. the problem there is that the positives would carry current backwords down the other wire, thus when parking lights are on, your turn signals would be too. you need the inputs seperated. to do that I used zener diodes. only lets current flow one way, so no backflow to a different circuit that you dont want lit.
when they blink it would be with the turn signals, but thats personal preference, no problem to not have that.
dactive. close. the problem there is that the positives would carry current backwords down the other wire, thus when parking lights are on, your turn signals would be too. you need the inputs seperated. to do that I used zener diodes. only lets current flow one way, so no backflow to a different circuit that you dont want lit.
03-18-2004, 12:33 PM
#20
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Why don't you just use a SPST relay. Connect the ON to the parking light power (for the led, not actual parking lights) and the switching part to the blinker's ground (or power).
Then you can just connect the parking light ground (again for the led) to the switch. If the switch is on, power is supply to the LED's (if you turn on the regular parking light) So if there's power going to the LED, this will turn on the relay and connect the blinker's ground (or power) allowing the blinkers to work.
Not sure what Voltage or current is being supplied to the Led sidemarkers, but you can probably find a small on at Radioshack with the right Voltage & Current rating for about $5.
gnd
|--===RELAY +----Parking Light--Switch
....|
....|--------Blinker's gnd
(don't mind the periods, it's just for spacing, the Relay switch is 2 wires, one to gnd the other to blinker's gnd)
the Relay power goes to the parking light
the Switch on the relay goes to gnd and blinker's gnd
So if parking light is on, Relay switch closes allowing blinkers to work.
Then you can just connect the parking light ground (again for the led) to the switch. If the switch is on, power is supply to the LED's (if you turn on the regular parking light) So if there's power going to the LED, this will turn on the relay and connect the blinker's ground (or power) allowing the blinkers to work.
Not sure what Voltage or current is being supplied to the Led sidemarkers, but you can probably find a small on at Radioshack with the right Voltage & Current rating for about $5.
gnd
|--===RELAY +----Parking Light--Switch
....|
....|--------Blinker's gnd
(don't mind the periods, it's just for spacing, the Relay switch is 2 wires, one to gnd the other to blinker's gnd)
the Relay power goes to the parking light
the Switch on the relay goes to gnd and blinker's gnd
So if parking light is on, Relay switch closes allowing blinkers to work.