Above pic is referring to this area

 

There should be an adjustment screw to slightly adjust how far your door comes down so you can align it. It should be an allen head screw and to get to it you need two people. One person lifts the door all the way up, then a little more above where the shock would normaly stop. Now that you've lifted the door, the adjustment screw should be accessible.
The adjustment bolt is basically adusting the stop on the way down. You can make it stop a little higher or a little lower. It's a very fine adjustment, a little goes a long way!
It's kind of hard to describe without a picture, but with those hints, you should be able to figure out what I'm talking about.

Good luck. It'll take you a while to get used to all the attention!

 

THANKS! So easy, even a moron can understand now!

Is this adjustment screw on the shock from the kit?

Is this it?

 

350Mark... looks great! Can't wait to get mine on... should happen Monday. Would be doing it right now, but I don't have access to the tools that I'll need to roll/cut the fender properly.

thack... is Bonz right on which adjustment screw or is it one of the ones on the hinge? Also, what type of tape did you use to hold the door in place when mounting the hinges? I presume there must be something body shops use that is safe to the finish

Thanks everyone for keeping the dialogue open. This is going to be very helpful for us getting ready to mount these bad boys!

 

The hex screw is on the hinge itself. That screw is unaccessible once everything is put together. There is a bolt that goes horizontal into the hole which makes it impossible to get to.

Regarding the hex screw on the hinge, is it suppose to be hard to turn? I tried to loosen it but its a pain in the a**. Looks like we're going to have to take the fenders off again.

 

Hex screw...

 

350Mark:

I am having the same issue with the door not wanting to sit all the way back down because of the shock. I have my hinge adjusted so that the door comes back down and lines up perfect, but the shock wants to pull the door back up. I was wondering if there was a break-in period myself. The only other solution is to adjust the hinge. I tried adjusting that hex bolt but the shock still pulls the door up so I set it back to where it seems it should be and just push down a little when shutting the door. I did the install myself. Really not that bad, just a lot of body parts to remove. The door will pretty much stay in place if it is shut and all hinges removed. My only other difficulty thus far is getting the front of the door lined up properly. It seems like it has no room to move anymore and it is sunk in just a tad so that it makes my front fender "look like" a wide body kit hehe. I am only talking a very small amount but it is noticable. I may have to drill out the holes on the hinge that mount up to the door to provide more play for adjusting. I wish I could post pics but my digital is still toast. I keep spending money on car parts instead of buying a new camera

 

Why is it a must to remove the fenders? Aren't the bolts visible? u can't fit (slide) the hinge in (too big)?

Thanks!

 

thackattk ... you said your installer used tape to hold the door in place during the hinge install. What kind of tape did he use?

My kit should be going on tomorrow.

 

Dr. Bonz - u should PM EnthuZiastDrive. He had his installed in NoVa. If I remember correctly, u r not too far away up there in Pa. His work great. Might be worth the trip.

 

I'm still a good 3 hours away from N. VA. I think I might have found a guy who does some custom work who will do mine. I'll let you know.

 

Update on the shocks: My shocks are not pushing the doors up as much as it did in the beginning. Now, when I open my drivers side door it just opens horizontally going up vertically very little. At first when I would open up my doors it would go straight up without staying horizontal. I think in time the shocks will give a liitle, with the weight of the door holding it down. Closing the door is much easier. Now I just need to start opening the passenger side door more, cuz it still has a slight problem.

As far as the door being sunk in you should mount the door all the way to the right of the hole. Mine sits flush with the fender. Does that make sense?

 

You can probably do it that way but you'll have to remove the door making it harder to align the door to close. Also it would now make it a 2 person job. Adjustments would also be easier with the fender off.

 

One more tip regarding the install. Put a piece of the velvet part of velcro on this area to prevent from accidentally scratching. I did this temporarily until I come up with something else.

 

One of the memebrs in our club just had his installed and already this part of the door is badly damaged. Is this from not opening the door out first then up?

 

I already bought this kit and was going to install it right away....this thread is making me think otherwise. Have a lot of people had these problems??

 

This install is not simple! Guys, I just wanted to give you a heads up because I've been able to observer first hand this kit going on my car. There are LOTS of issues to work around with these hinges.

I will have a more detailed post with what we have discovered that no one has told you about here.

Can they be installed? Yes, but I have not found a single thread on this forum that has really described the extent of work that must be done for the doors to funtion properly and not cause any damage.

I think I'll be very happy with the end result, but had I known beforehand what I know now about the install, I would have passed on the Lambo Doors and bought something else... even at the low group buy price I got... for that matter, someone want to make me a good offer on a Lambo Door kit?

Anyway, as soon as the doors are both on and my car is back together, I will give an honest review (both the good and the bad) and you guys can decided for yourselves.

 

I am selling my kit.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=7914723932

 

this is not a DIY kit. huge hassle. i've had mine for about 4 months now.

i've had to realign them twice. temps will mess with how the doors align. you shouldnt have to take anything off to align the doors. just go to a small hardware shop, and im sure you'll find everything you need to do the adjustment yourself. it should take longer then 5 minutes to adjust the doors. they are perfectly lined up as of now.

there is rubbing on the door panels when the doors are opened up. the door kinda rests on the piller of your car. overtime they will scratch the paint and rip the panels if you dont do something about your door panels. i just finished working on the passenger side door panel. i shaved off a chunk of it. you still have to be carefull when opening, but the door doesnt rest on the piller anymore. problem solved....for the passenger side anyway. i still gotta get the time to do the driver side.

it is possible to open the door from a seated position, but you have to get a spot as far back on the door to give yourself more leverage.

bottom line. WELL worth it.

 

anyone else care to comment on this...i'm thinking about getting this for my g35, but man with all the problems...shheeesssshhhh