My body shop will be installing the vertical door kit tomorrow. I've done a search and know that they will have to shave some of the inner fender for the unit to work. I still have a few questions for those who have installed the kit. The instructions that came with the kit are for (what looks like) a Mitsubishi Eclipse.

1. I saw in one thread that when it comes to wiring you don't need to extend the wires. What is the concensus? (sp)

2. In another thread it says the doors need to be removed, but in the directions it clearly says do not remove the doors. Can anyone confirm?

3. Is there any tips the body shop should know when doing the install?


Thanks for all your help!!

--Mark

 

1. the wires that needed to be extended were for me.
2. i'm pretty darn sure the doors need to be taken out...ur taking off the hinges and replacing em.how else are you gettin em there?
3. dunno, didn't do the install myself :P PM me and i can get u the info of the import shop that did mine

 

350Mark... I'm in the same boat you are... my kit goes on this weekend. This is what I have gathered...

1 - The wires should be long enough without having to extend them, but without they may bind. This is why jcn used the .25" spacers on his hinges. My plan is to install and very carefully open the doors the first time to see how much wire play is and if there are any trouble spots. If necessary, we'll then extend the wiring.

2 - I know part in the instructions you are referring to. There are "static" door hinges you can buy that basically hard mount the door in an open position. These require mounting points for the static hinges which I'm not sure are available on the 350Z. We're just planning on taking the doors off.

3 - Can't field this one until Monday...

 

Thanks guys! The shop will be very cautious when they install the kit. I told them exactly what you guys said. Hopefully all goes well. I'll keep you guys posted.

 

Yes. Please post some detailed pics if possible. I still need to fond a place that will install mine. Two body shops have turned me down so far.

 

DR Bonz, why did they turn you down?

 

Bonz is going vertical?

I always thought you would be a little too conservative for that.

Congrats

 

They don't want to take resposibility if something goes wrong. I went to 4 body shops before I found one that would do it.

 

That, and the profit angle. They make WAY more money doing collision work that is paid by insurance companies than the couple hunded they'll get from me for this.

No one does custom body work around here. I'm still looking.

 

A couple of tips. I'm not a professional, I've just seen it done many times.

1. The wires shouldn't need to be extended, just rerouted.

2. The doors do not need to be removed. Use 4" masking tape going from the front windshield across each door. Use several long pieces of tape and it will hold the door in place so you can just remove the front fender and replace the hinge.

3. Do the passenger side first, in case you want to move the car.

 

 

thackattk...
Thanks, man! Your #2 answer is the best advice I've seen yet. Doing that avoids long time getting the door to line back, etc, etc. My doors will go on either tomorrow or Monday night depending on how busy my weekend gets.

BTW, love the yellow on your Z... how long has it been since you painted it? (sorry... it may have been done quite a while ago, but I just now noticed)

 

Thanks for the compliment. It's been yellow since SEMA, last November.

More pics:
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/465703

 

O.k.... My shop installed the kit today. The doors close fine at first but if the doors are open vertically for a while it seems like you have to push down to compress the shocks more to close properly. When you open the door it wants to shoot straight up without giving it a chance to open horizontally all the way. Is there a breakin period for the shocks? As far as pics go, the shop was more concentrated in the install and I wasn't there to watch or take pictures (working). There was no need to extend the wires but when the doors are open vertically, there seems to be very little slack. I'm about 90% happy except for those shocks. Should I have anything to worry about?

 

here is where it hits when you try to close the door. The shop wants me to bring it back tommorrow to see if they can adjust it.

 

Here is the semi finished product..

 

one more..

 

I don't think I am understanding how you can do this without removing the door and how Thack is saying to "tape" them. Can someone explain it differently to me or post a pic or drawing or something to help this illiterate goof?

Also, I am not understanding the pic of where your door is "hitting" 350Mark. Can you help me with a big red idiot circle or something?

 

What he means by taping it is that you take off the front fender. Tape the door in the closed position from windshield all the way across the door. Use alot of tape. Then you remove the factory hinge leaving the door in the closed position being held by the tape. Mount the new bracket.

 

Here is a better pic of what i'm talking about. The door and the little square thingy aren't aligned. Maybe off by 1/8". Thus not closing smoothly. I think it's the shocks.