98sr20ve

There is no Rev Up info in this thread. Whats the status of that as a longblock. I don't want to loose my rev up motor. Also, It seems that a lot of people are saying that 400whp is just not going to last on a VQ. Is that really still the thoughts around here?

Edit: I "could" assume that I could just use a built short block and then reuse my Rev Up heads as is. I would think I would need to retrue the heads to make sure they are truely flat, but I'm not sure if thats needed. Once you get the engine apart you would know but then it's just more work if you don't have the longblock and you bought a shortblock instead.

350Zzzz

If you mean 400whp on a stock engine, it is viable. I had the procharger since mid-2003 till 2005 @ 400whp on a mustang dyno stock block, 380 cc PE injectors, walboro pump and fuel regulator. We have club members running 419 rwhp with JWTT, and complete stock everything, even the injectors, still running strong.

Not much experience with rev-up, just the basic concept that intake and exhaust run on separate, dedicate timing controls; correct me if I am wrong.

Too bad, the technology was not available for Ernie the first time around. He’s understandably upset to have to go through rebuilts over and over again.

I am sure you guys have come a long way and capable of a better job today blindfolded

G
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98sr20ve

Good because that was kinda my plan.

350zDCalb

iTrader: (21)

we have built the rev up engine as well...only difference is the heads and the timing covers (and timing gears- cam gears)

Like you said, easy solution is; purchase a built shortblock..have your heads redecked locally..and then assemble your components back onto the build shortblock

TODD

Mamounas123

iTrader: (2)

Now for the short list, yes it does exists. If you don't want to listen to the advice above, at least buy these at the bare minimum:

Connecting rods
Pistons
ARP Main studs/Head studs
Rod+Main, Bearings
Overhaul Gasket Kit
Rear Main Oil Seal
NGK one step colder plugs
Boost gauge
Oil Press gauge
EGT Gauge
AFR gauge
Clutch Upgraded
And the following depending on boost levels:
AAM Fuel Return System
Bigger fuel injectors

How much do you guys think all these parts would cost me? Im not looking for big hp like over 500whp. I just wanna run like around 400whp safetly.

The_man_in_Black

I have had my z for a little over a month it is an 06, I have been reading as much as i can and have been considering an FI solution. I was thinking of going with a charger because it is my everyday driver, I dont have the 30k to invest though I had planned on about 10-12 for everything. So now I am wondering about some milder mods. Here is what I had in mind.
headers and full exhaust
short Ram intake
Plenum Spacer
New pulleys
Does anyone have any idea what kind of gains I could expect from these mods, any suggestions are appreciated
Thanks in advance Great Post by the way, Very Very Informative

carlosprats

this is the answer to all your concerns and worries

http://www.nissansportmag.com/shooto...oshootout.html

I will personally go with the JWT since the parts are made here in the states , APS would be my second option but you have to wait for the parts to come all the way from Australia, since they do not keep them here, therefore delaying any repairs you might need. Also the JWT has got best reviews . Enjoy

The_man_in_Black

Thanks for the reply but there is a little misunderstanding. The question I ha was what kind of HP gains would I get from the following mods
Shorty Ram intake
3 peice pulley kit
Plenum spacer
Full exhaust headers back

But thanks again for the reply, That is an awesome link because I am still considering FI

carlosprats

If I were you i will drop those 10-12k that you are planning in a turbo set up, and then from that point go up, by adding those not so important mods that will give you certain gains but no as radical as the twin turbos. And by the way with 10-12k you can get the JWT or the APS or whichever you like up tuned installed and running . I think 10k will do , at least that was a quote a had once. With 10k i was gonna be able to get the APS twin since installation was like around 2500 - 3000. Man go FI before doing anything and then go from that point up. Oh remeber to build the engine to so extent , or just do like many do and wait for it until it blows and then you do it. Good luck

badboyblake11

iTrader: (1)

wow, im glad i decided to look on here before actually puttin turobs on. this helped out a lot and made me realize the there is a lot more that i need.

The_man_in_Black

Do you know a common Mileage when peoples engines blow. I have kinda a long commute 100 miles a day round trip, so I am going to be putting a minimum of 15k a year on this car, I would say closer to 20k because I guess I have had the car for 2 months and I have right at 5k on it right now, of course I took a couple of road trips the first couple weeks I had her and put 1k miles on her that weekend

carlosprats

[QUOTE]Do you know a common Mileage when peoples engines blow. [QUOTE]

Hahahahaha that is funny, noone can tell that bro. Look , engines come out of the factory with different tolerances, meaning they all are not alike, the more close to perfect tolerances the longer life in general the engine will have. Now we dont know who's engine are those , it is a matter of luck. I know a guy that blew his engine after lets say less than 1000, miles and had tunning problems like crazy. The general saying was that he had one of those bad engines. Now there is also the strain that you put in the engine, meaning how hard you take it to, You know acceleration up to red line, every day racing , or just weekend racing it all depends. This post was created by someone that had a problem cuz he did turbos with no engine build. I know a guy who put a solid 6000 miles in a greedy twin set up. Now i dont know how he drives but he race it once in while. My advice if you are gonna go FI is :
1st do internals if you have the money
2nd do the short block and they garantee it for 1 year and 550whp this is the link:

http://sgpracing-store.stores.yahoo.net/sgpravqmo.html

Or you can do the old school move of having the car down for like 6 months and do thingys one at a time or dunno. My advice save up, build the engine with the short block package 4000.00 and then drop the twins on the beast. Trust me 550whp is enough of what you will be able to achieve with stock boost. You will need to tune, Y pipes , ecu , fuel return and what not to get to 550 whp. the guy that had the greedy running for like 6000 miles has 440whp and he build the engine himself this is the link for the thread

http://sfzcc.com/forum/showthread.ph...t=engine+build

He is in my car club , and he has a shop in FL where he build the engine. Eventually i think he would offer the build up along with installation of twins , all in one package, He said something about doing it in a future. Dunno what has happend with that. Anyway good luck peace out

The_man_in_Black

[QUOTE=carlosprats][QUOTE]Do you know a common Mileage when peoples engines blow. Thanks for all the info man, Thats more the Direction I am leaning. I have decided I am gonna wait a while on FI I guess Do some other stuff and may do a short block build. I am normally a very patient person, but for some reason with this car I want everything and I want it yesterday a little off character for me. take it easy

turbo-maxima

Does anyone know how high I would be able to rev the VQ35 safely with a built engine and built head? And what components would you recommend to rev that high with reliability? Also what turbos(twin turbos) would you recommend to make peak power at the 8000+ range I am guessing the VQ35 can rev. I am looking to be at the 550+ whp range with the least amount of boost I can even if that means giving up some torque.

skaterbasist

iTrader: (3)

Very knowledgeable thread.

Myself, in the other hand, plan on going Vortech and NOT TT. Why? Personal reasons.

I plan on being anywhere near 430-450 whp and 375-390 wtq.

With this in mind, what internals are necessary to stay within safe range?

I do not want to kill my wallet, and want just the necesary internals to stay safe with this SC.

.

carlosprats

I am not pretty sure those numbers you are aiming at would be easy to achieve at the rear wheels, with that superchrger just right out of the box, and just the fact that to improve a super charger you can only do pulleys, to play with the boost levels wont help you either. FORGET it bro , why do you think ppl do twins or singles turbos not superchargers? Turbo charger are the best for those numbers you are aiming at. Just do some research cuz I think for real gains you are about to go on the wrong ship. As for engine build you can go to SGP performance

http://sgpracing-store.stores.yahoo.net/sgpravqmo.html

and there for what you want is 4000.00 after you return your short block which if you do not send it is 2200.00 buckaros totaling 6200.00 , you can also send your own engine as long as you can aford to dismantle your car. So you can have an idea of what are the real gains out there the closest that someone have done to a turbo shootout was this.

http://www.nissansportmag.com/downlo...outstests.html

The best would have been to gather 6 stock Zs and stick them all with the stock turbos to see the real gains, but that would be to much to ask. So check them out and for a real idea of power gains.

End of story for that power you r aiming out you need twins, consider also the stress you will put on a single turbo since you will need to increase psi tremendously to achieve the performance you can get from 2 turbos working half capasity at around 9 psi , which is the range of psi you need to get over 400whp. Check this guy from my car club he just did greddy twins and is boosting 9 psi 414 whp. GOOD LUCK.

http://www.sfzcc.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4553

skaterbasist

iTrader: (3)

Carlosprats, are you familiar with Vortech?

I will not be going twins for many reasons, and going over 400 with Vortech is an easy task as long as you have the necessary upgrades.

In fact, many vortech owners are pushing high 400's (490-450) in whp.

Torque will not be as high as a turbo, but you have the wrong concept if you believe a vortech will not give you that certain power.

And yes, I am familiar with SGP... but as far as money goes, thats a big problem there. I'm wondering which single internal mod would make an FI safest. Probably lower compression pistons... or rods. Not so sure about that one.

.

carlosprats

oh well like you said you need another upgrades to push that kind of power , ...another meaning ? like what an extra couple thousands ? falling into TT territory,. look bro I could care less what type of FI you do, you wanted an honest opinion and you got it. You wanna go and do what just a few have done and realized later that for 2000 bucks or maybe less worth of savings, was not worth, and that a TT system would have been the best. I think TT is the best for pushing this kind of power, but again it is my opinion. I dont think more than 80% of car enthusiasts are wrong about doing TTs plus the manufacturers(meaning mayor car companies) doing TTs. Again this my opinion but TT are more customizable and have way more potential than a SC and that is a fact.

About some internals done pistons and rods would help, considering the crankshaft is gonna hold your 400 plus WHP, remeber the engine will be facing a lot more than that to the crank , prob around 450-460.dunno. But from trial and error the crankshaft has hold so far that kinda power. Some have, some have not it depends. Advice do crankshaft pistons and rods, and pray you dont blow the engine...LOL.... personally i think it would be a waste of time and money to do mayor mods risking a blown engine. When ppl go FI without rebuildding the engine they know eventually the engine is gonna blow, it is just a matter of time and how it will. Good luck with the mods but if budget is your concern and not a well done build, then you are in the wrong hobby. Just a piece of my mind , GL.

GreatWhiteZ

Sentry65 has a 473rwhp vortech sc kit with bolt ons, no internal work (if i remember correctly). I think he might have done the 3.12 pulley but not sure. SC'ers are a way different feel and drive than turbos from what i've read, i wouldn't know, except for some drives in a friends STi which had gobs of torque, 100-150 in sixth with ease, anyway SCers are less money when simply going over 400, right?

You have to set budget brackets for yourself, TTs take a lot more time and money, and SCers are limited but can make you happy for under 10K, all mods considered. If you can spend over 10k... TT BABY no doubt!

Mid117

iTrader: (11)

I wish I could do a motor build in under 10 minutes

http://youtube.com/watch?v=kVXj4ULvPJQ