Built Motor-BREAK -IN period
#21
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Originally posted by 350zDCalb
my car was previously tuned to 8.5 lbs or so putting down approx 465 (corrected) rwhp...again, that equates to approx 380rwhp here at 5500ft altitude.
it was tuned to maintain an a/f ratio of 11.4-11.6 across the band (for the most part a pretty healthy tune) i was pulling 5 degrees of timing with the greddy ignition harness.
...so that was the current tune...wouldn't putting lower compression pistons thus changing the cylinder pressure, make the previous tune be pretty far off anyway???
i DO appreciate the feedback, believe me, i want to do this right the second time around(should of would of could of-donr forged internal from day one)
THANKS
my car was previously tuned to 8.5 lbs or so putting down approx 465 (corrected) rwhp...again, that equates to approx 380rwhp here at 5500ft altitude.
it was tuned to maintain an a/f ratio of 11.4-11.6 across the band (for the most part a pretty healthy tune) i was pulling 5 degrees of timing with the greddy ignition harness.
...so that was the current tune...wouldn't putting lower compression pistons thus changing the cylinder pressure, make the previous tune be pretty far off anyway???
i DO appreciate the feedback, believe me, i want to do this right the second time around(should of would of could of-donr forged internal from day one)
THANKS
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Originally posted by 350zDCalb
the not staying in one piece comment...are you referring to even forged internals? has anyone blown on an engine rebuild?...or are you ONLY referring to all of the bolt on kits blowing up stck motors? i want to do things right...cheap is not an option at this point, my 30k car is now a 50k car!
the not staying in one piece comment...are you referring to even forged internals? has anyone blown on an engine rebuild?...or are you ONLY referring to all of the bolt on kits blowing up stck motors? i want to do things right...cheap is not an option at this point, my 30k car is now a 50k car!
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I am in the process of arrangin a mild engine build up: forged pistons, rods, valves and valve springs. If I use a "turbo compression" set on an NA motor to break it in before I get the twin turbo (APS) is that bad?
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Originally posted by ReavTek
I am in the process of arrangin a mild engine build up: forged pistons, rods, valves and valve springs. If I use a "turbo compression" set on an NA motor to break it in before I get the twin turbo (APS) is that bad?
I am in the process of arrangin a mild engine build up: forged pistons, rods, valves and valve springs. If I use a "turbo compression" set on an NA motor to break it in before I get the twin turbo (APS) is that bad?
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build up
Originally posted by ReavTek
I am in the process of arrangin a mild engine build up: forged pistons, rods, valves and valve springs. If I use a "turbo compression" set on an NA motor to break it in before I get the twin turbo (APS) is that bad?
I am in the process of arrangin a mild engine build up: forged pistons, rods, valves and valve springs. If I use a "turbo compression" set on an NA motor to break it in before I get the twin turbo (APS) is that bad?
Oh yeah if you are doing valve springs and rods , you prolley wnat to consder at leas ta mild CAM upgrade. I am using the JWT S1.
#26
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Gents, this has been a really good read. Todd and I are basically in the same boat with only a few weeks in between. In fact, we are even using the same shop, Greddy TT, and future set up as well. Here's my question, what about installing the AAM fuel return system and waiting to change out the injectors until after the break in period? I know that the AAM system will deliver fuel in a much better way than before, but would that cause you be rich enough to damage rings? how about, installing the AAM system and checking the tune? If all is well, then swap out the injectors after a couple of weeks?
#27
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Originally posted by going deep
Gents, this has been a really good read. Todd and I are basically in the same boat with only a few weeks in between. In fact, we are even using the same shop, Greddy TT, and future set up as well. Here's my question, what about installing the AAM fuel return system and waiting to change out the injectors until after the break in period? I know that the AAM system will deliver fuel in a much better way than before, but would that cause you be rich enough to damage rings? how about, installing the AAM system and checking the tune? If all is well, then swap out the injectors after a couple of weeks?
Gents, this has been a really good read. Todd and I are basically in the same boat with only a few weeks in between. In fact, we are even using the same shop, Greddy TT, and future set up as well. Here's my question, what about installing the AAM fuel return system and waiting to change out the injectors until after the break in period? I know that the AAM system will deliver fuel in a much better way than before, but would that cause you be rich enough to damage rings? how about, installing the AAM system and checking the tune? If all is well, then swap out the injectors after a couple of weeks?
i asked the same question on another thread..let's see if we get the same response!
#28
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With the new fuel system, you will likely be running a bit rich at the top of the RPM range. From idle to 4000rpm, I doubt you would tell the difference. You'll use the eManage to scale the larger 550cc injectors that we all bought, and can fine tune from there. I certainly would hire someone to tune your cars right away...once you decide on you will break it in.
Remember, that everyone will have a slightly different method of breaking in a motor. None of which is decidely better than the other. Just trust your machine shop, and the piston manufacturer, to guide you in the break-in process.
Remember, that everyone will have a slightly different method of breaking in a motor. None of which is decidely better than the other. Just trust your machine shop, and the piston manufacturer, to guide you in the break-in process.
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It looks like this issue has been covered pretty well, but I thought I would add a bit to help some people understand what is happening when you break in a new motor. This is a pretty controversial subject among tuners, and I've seen this subject cause some ridiculous arguments...
First off, let me say that my method of breaking in a motor includes running the car at WOT in top gear within MINUTES of getting it warmed up. If that scares you, read this.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
First off, let me say that my method of breaking in a motor includes running the car at WOT in top gear within MINUTES of getting it warmed up. If that scares you, read this.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
#30
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That well worn link (although I couldnt open it) has made the rounds of just about every motorcyle, car, and lawnmower racing website. It seem very authoritative..but it is still very controversial...and anything but conclusive. Too each his own....good luck!
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I agree that it is controversial, and not conclusive, but I don't think anything on this subject will ever be conclusive. In the end all we can do is go by who or what we believe, and see what happens. His method has never caused me a problem, but the races that I have won after breaking in a motor like that could very easily be attributed to driving skill instead of the engine making more power due to the break in process...
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This guy claims that the manufacturers are wrong because they say to baby a brand new engine. Some manufacturers already break the engine in for you but most of the time they give you instructions to break it in easily but the instructions are not for the engine-they're for the rest of the car.
On a new car you have not only a fresh engine but also a new clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, you also have new discs and brake pads etc. If you took his breakin method then you'd have a wonderfully broken in engine and a clutch that's only going to last 1/2 as long. Same deal with the brakes.
On a new car you have not only a fresh engine but also a new clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, you also have new discs and brake pads etc. If you took his breakin method then you'd have a wonderfully broken in engine and a clutch that's only going to last 1/2 as long. Same deal with the brakes.
#33
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i will revive another buried thread...since this should be my reality tomorrow!!! i'm not gonna sleep tonight...then again, i shouldn't get too excited until i am actually driving my car away! (supposed to take delivery of my car tomorrow and dyno on sat)
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Alright now you know that we expect a review sometime today! Congrats, btw. It's been a long time coming for you... Like a kid on Christmas Eve.
Originally Posted by 350zDCalb
i will revive another buried thread...since this should be my reality tomorrow!!! i'm not gonna sleep tonight...then again, i shouldn't get too excited until i am actually driving my car away! (supposed to take delivery of my car tomorrow and dyno on sat)
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Yeah, I know. Now I've got to get my **** built now....
Originally Posted by phunk
running an engine rich is just as bad as lean... rich washs the oil off your cylinder walls and wears at your rings and hone due to excessive friction from lack of cylinder wall lubrication.
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