Have you ever intentionally or unintentionally written data back to the ECU when you have been connected. I had a similar problem when my "System Settings" were set incorrectly. VERIFY that your system settings are adjusted to: Vacuum / Pressure + Programmable Signal Calibrator and write the data back to the ECU. Then go test again..

 

actually, all this started happening before i got the laptop hooked up to the ss box. so i know i didn't do this to the car, but then again, i may have written something on acident to the ecu, but like i said, the issue started before i got the ss box hooked up to my laptop. i have another question... i was checking with someone else in town, they were saying that the weather was playing part in my trouble, that it being colder than how it was when it was initially tuned, the car may be leaning out too much at full boost, and the car is limiting itself so not to hurt it.

 

Absolutely…. I have a winter tune and a summer tune I program in the SS box. How much has your temp changed in your area.

For me it’s something like this.

100 – 80 – summer tune
79 – 0 – winter tune

 

From what your system settings say... you have additional injector controller checked....it should be ..programmable signal calibrator . I would change that first...see if it fixes the problem .
Yes , the hose should tee off , one going to your FMU and the other going to your BOV . If they are kinked this can cause problems . I didnt read the whole thread ....but have you checked to see if your aux. pump turns on at all ?
DFW is right if your temps have dropped into the 30's or 40's your tune will lean out also

 

how would i check to see if the pump turns on or not ?

 

Map B shows 0's where no timing has been pulled and 0 is the stock setting for most of the map, just like 10 & 10.2 are mostly the stock settings for Map A.

You have to keep in mind that the vast majority of the map is not being used, i.e., you will never be boosting 4psi at 2500 rpm so there is no reason to pull any timing in that cell. If you make a WOT run (on a dyno only!) and watch the map you will see the small range of cells that are actually being used. As you can see from both maps, the cells that are being used trend downward at an angle from left to right corresponding to the boost level at the given RPM.

 

thanks lorca, this helps me understand it a little better.

 

Ive made a copy of the timing and fuel maps and charted my RPM curve across them . To see what cells are actually being used . This helps alot when tuning it .

 

Interesting point, it has been damn cold even in Florida so he may be making more boost, but even if that put him outside the range (further right on the map for the given RPM) it would just be back into the unchanged stock Vortech settings which tend to be overly safe (rich), unless its strictly a timing issue.

Two cells to the right at 5000rpm would actually be .2 less fuel (leaner), but that is such a slight change it shouldnt cause the problem he is having.

 

If you have a fuel pressure gauge...you should see the pressure go up as soon as you get into any boost . If you dont have a gauge....I dont know of any easy way of checking it . I think I read some where....some one suggested hooking up a hand pump to the plenum...pump it up with ignition on ...and when pressure gets high enough...the pump should come...

 

The night I broke a piston..it was in the low 50's ....I made almost a half lb more boost than ever before

 

Alright guys, I was having similar problems and I've been reading this thread. We are really having the same problems. I've richened my SS box up by about 6% and have gotten the A:F some what acceptable. I will play more with the values. It's all starting to make sense, the car has been getting progressively leaner over the passed month or so, the air has been getting progressively colder. I did the air compressor on the vacuum line and watched my fuel pressure gauge pop off the charts so it's delivering the fuel.

Backagain, if you would like some assistance in modifying your split second settings pm me and I'll give you my phone number.

I think it might solve your problems.

 

I am for sure going to make 2 ..if not 3 maps . I'll leave the 3.12 pulley on this winter and do a map when its cold as chit out . Do another this spring with the 2.87 pulley on . When I change the cog , or blower pulley to get even more boost...I'll make another . The weather is making more of a diffenrence to the A/F than I thought it would

 

I had an idea as to the problem based on this pic:



What if the SS box is either not seeing the 2000 RPM signal through a loose wire or not seeing the 1.1 lbs of boost because of a kinked or loose vaccum hose. Then the auxiliary pump would never turn on regardless of whether the fuse was in or not and the car would hit a lean condition as soon as boost hit hard around 4500 RPM causing the computer to pull timing and thus his problem.

 

Why is injector B so much lower than A? I've never used this setup, but that seems like it could be an issue.

 

Map B is the timing map and the numbers represent the amount of timing being pulled. Map A is the fuel map and the numbers represent the amount of extra fuel being added, i.e., the higher the number in the cell the more fuel is being added.

 

I think its more likely the change in temperature as booger has indicated, but you never know.

 

Backagain and I are both near sea level. I wonder if climate is more effective related to boost at sea level vs. 500-5000 feet altitude.

 

Im at 800 ft . Like I said , I mad almost .5 lb's more boost at 50 degree's than I did when I tuned at 80 degree's . Im sure of it because I recorded the first 2 runs at the track that night on my laptop .To bad I wasnt paying attention to my A/F that night . I could have shed more light on the effect of temps on it .

 

According to the dyno chart the ambient temperature when the car was tuned was 64 degrees.