possible boost leak. PIC OF R4 SCREENSHOT
#1
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From: Ft Walton Beach FL
possible boost leak. PIC OF R4 SCREENSHOT
can you tell me if this looks like something is going wrong with my r4 software ? here is a screen shot of me running through 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear, maybe a little in 4th, couldn't remember, if you read my previous post, i am having trouble with the vortech as soon as my car gets to 4700-5000 rpm. but only at wide open throttle. or full boost.
#2
How long have you had this problem? From day 1 or did it just start? Or, you knew you had a problem and just stayed below 4700 rpm's? I was perfectly happy with my Vortech SC performance until I went to 4700 rpm. Then it just lost power. Drove it for week, then finally put it on a dyno. The dyno showed the same thing. Checked all the hoses. Check all the wiring to and from the ECU. As I mentioned in a previous post, those two wires on the AUX fuel pump were crossed. Reversed the wires and the R4 program input began performing.
What does your dyno run look like? Can you post a pic?
What does your dyno run look like? Can you post a pic?
#3
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From: Ft Walton Beach FL
jus started saturday, had it on the car for a week, the car ran fine until saturday morning, the only thing i have done is fix my heater by bleeding the heater hose, and mount the aem wideband a/f gauge, there is no possible way that if two of the wires are touching each other from the aem wideband that it would cause this to happen is there ? do the wires from the aem wideband go the the r4 software (ss box) or the ecu ?
#4
Originally posted by backagain
jus started saturday, had it on the car for a week, the car ran fine until saturday morning, the only thing i have done is fix my heater by bleeding the heater hose, and mount the aem wideband a/f gauge, there is no possible way that if two of the wires are touching each other from the aem wideband that it would cause this to happen is there ?
jus started saturday, had it on the car for a week, the car ran fine until saturday morning, the only thing i have done is fix my heater by bleeding the heater hose, and mount the aem wideband a/f gauge, there is no possible way that if two of the wires are touching each other from the aem wideband that it would cause this to happen is there ?
I am speaking of the main serpentine belt. Not the Vortech belt.
#7
Originally posted by backagain
on a side note, it only does this when moving, if im sitting in neutral and rev to redline, the car is fine,
on a side note, it only does this when moving, if im sitting in neutral and rev to redline, the car is fine,
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#8
If you can rotate the "serpentine belt" 90 degrees, it is loose. I can turn mine about 45 degrees. The adjustment pulley on the cog belt should require force to turn by hand. Also, about 1/2" up and down play. Still would like to see some dyno graphs.
#9
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From: Ft Walton Beach FL
Originally posted by SungNamZ
If you can rotate the "serpentine belt" 90 degrees, it is loose. I can turn mine about 45 degrees. The adjustment pulley on the cog belt should require force to turn by hand. Also, about 1/2" up and down play. Still would like to see some dyno graphs.
If you can rotate the "serpentine belt" 90 degrees, it is loose. I can turn mine about 45 degrees. The adjustment pulley on the cog belt should require force to turn by hand. Also, about 1/2" up and down play. Still would like to see some dyno graphs.
#10
Originally posted by backagain
i was able to rotate the belt with a rachet , but was afraid to keep turning, i pulled the blue fuse in the yellow fuse holder coming off the battery, can someone tell me if this is the aux fuel pump fuse, i pulled the fuse, and drove around the block, same issue happened, could this be the issue ? also, i saw on the aem wideband going around low 12's the closer to redline, but when it was about to hit full boose, same issue but on the wideband it jumped up to 14.5 or so,....
i was able to rotate the belt with a rachet , but was afraid to keep turning, i pulled the blue fuse in the yellow fuse holder coming off the battery, can someone tell me if this is the aux fuel pump fuse, i pulled the fuse, and drove around the block, same issue happened, could this be the issue ? also, i saw on the aem wideband going around low 12's the closer to redline, but when it was about to hit full boose, same issue but on the wideband it jumped up to 14.5 or so,....
Also include what you have the options set for under settings..
Here is an example of what I am looking for:
www.dfwg35.com/maps.html
NOTE: DO NOT use my settings they are very aggressive and consider all my mods when created !!
Last edited by dfw350z; 12-21-2004 at 05:00 AM.
#11
Originally posted by backagain
i pulled the blue fuse in the yellow fuse holder coming off the battery, can someone tell me if this is the aux fuel pump fuse, i pulled the fuse, and drove around the block, same issue happened, could this be the issue ? [/IMG]
i pulled the blue fuse in the yellow fuse holder coming off the battery, can someone tell me if this is the aux fuel pump fuse, i pulled the fuse, and drove around the block, same issue happened, could this be the issue ? [/IMG]
#12
POWER and TORQUE lines look good on your dyno run. Good level fuel line. I might add some fuel with the R4 to get the fuel line down below 12 and closer to 11.5 starting at 3500 - 4000 rpm. What value is in those cells?
#14
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From: Ft Walton Beach FL
here is a screen shot of all i could see in the r4 software, the first pic is of map A, the second pic is of map B, and you can see what the rest is. i have no idea how to work the r4 software so tell me if you see anything wrong here. thanks.
#15
This is good info but two things.
1. We need to see the Boost and A/F from the "0" mark to say 11lbs (NOT the (–) stuff) - Scroll to the right on Map A & B
2. Unless I am mistaken the System Settings need to be set for:
Vacuum / Pressure - Programmable Signal Calibrator.
Please re-post the charts when you have time.
NOTE: You must VERIFY these settings EVERY time before you write to the ECU. They have a tendency to change and that will screw everything up.
Use my web site as an example of what to get:
http://www.dfwg35.com/maps.html
1. We need to see the Boost and A/F from the "0" mark to say 11lbs (NOT the (–) stuff) - Scroll to the right on Map A & B
2. Unless I am mistaken the System Settings need to be set for:
Vacuum / Pressure - Programmable Signal Calibrator.
Please re-post the charts when you have time.
NOTE: You must VERIFY these settings EVERY time before you write to the ECU. They have a tendency to change and that will screw everything up.
Use my web site as an example of what to get:
http://www.dfwg35.com/maps.html
Last edited by dfw350z; 12-21-2004 at 11:09 AM.
#16
Originally posted by SungNamZ
POWER and TORQUE lines look good on your dyno run. Good level fuel line. I might add some fuel with the R4 to get the fuel line down below 12 and closer to 11.5 starting at 3500 - 4000 rpm. What value is in those cells?
POWER and TORQUE lines look good on your dyno run. Good level fuel line. I might add some fuel with the R4 to get the fuel line down below 12 and closer to 11.5 starting at 3500 - 4000 rpm. What value is in those cells?
I really don't think the maps are going to help solve his issue since the car ran great for a week on that tune.
#17
Originally posted by backagain
i was able to rotate the belt with a rachet , but was afraid to keep turning, i pulled the blue fuse in the yellow fuse holder coming off the battery, can someone tell me if this is the aux fuel pump fuse, i pulled the fuse, and drove around the block, same issue happened, could this be the issue ? also, i saw on the aem wideband going around low 12's the closer to redline, but when it was about to hit full boose, same issue but on the wideband it jumped up to 14.5 or so,....
i was able to rotate the belt with a rachet , but was afraid to keep turning, i pulled the blue fuse in the yellow fuse holder coming off the battery, can someone tell me if this is the aux fuel pump fuse, i pulled the fuse, and drove around the block, same issue happened, could this be the issue ? also, i saw on the aem wideband going around low 12's the closer to redline, but when it was about to hit full boose, same issue but on the wideband it jumped up to 14.5 or so,....
Last edited by Lorca@Z1; 12-21-2004 at 12:20 PM.