I know the MAF sends a voltage signal that maxes out around 4.9volts, but at what point should you get a pressure sensor? and which one? Does anyone have recommendations for a guy like me who will probably be around 15psi after the engine build up. I plan on keeping my profec eo-1 for now with my GReddy TT setup.

 

You already have a pressure sensor with the e01 all you need is get a pressure harness and connect the e01 to the emanage and run the emanage using boost and then you can tune to your hearts content and it will run much smoother.

 

The MAF sensor in the 350z is maxed out right away. When you start tuning the E-Manage in a boosted 350z you will find that you are only tuning the last couple rows of load. This means that your finished tune at 7.5 psi might be awesome... but then you turn your boost down and its way too rich cause the E-Manage cant see the difference, it just sees 4.9 volts. Get the MAP sensor if you wanna do it right.

 

Thanks guys, I'll pick up the pressure harness.

 

http://www.alamomotorsports.com/products.html?http://www.alamomotorsports.com/grd_emanage.html
16401406 e-Manage Pressure Sensor Harness $30.80

is this the right one?
$30.80?
anything else needed...pressure sensor is already there right?

 

No you need 15900543 E-01 to e-Manage Pressure Harness for 17.42

This connects the e01 to the emanage to supply the boost signal from the e01 pressure sensor.

 

^^^Correct^^^

You already have the a very nice quality pressure sensor in the e-01. Just that cheap cable, and some patience and dyno time.

i really like this concept. you could potentially tune a pressure based map from 0-20psi, and no matter what boost you choose to run, the eManage will compensate automatically. No more running rich when you turn the boost down....or running lean when you turn the boost up.

 

you can also retard timing by psi if you got the pressure harness...


you are still somewhat held back tho, since you can only work with so large of an injector. Having an external FPR will help you run a larger injector then a solid pressure because it will take fuel out down low and add it in with boost... so this lets you idle and cruise a larger injector and then get more out of it on the top, both better then just having a solid pressure out of it all the time.

another trick that one could incorporate is the rising rate fuel pressure regulator... get a vortech FMU with something like a 4:1 spring in it. The vortech FMU will then raise fuel pressure by 4 psi for every 1 psi of boost, but it will not have this effect in vacuum, just positive pressure.... this is nice cause you can get even more top out of your injectors.. lots of honda guys get away with running ONLY a 12:1 FMU for their fuel management and no electronics at all... thats a little ghetto tho and it brings your fuel pressure to insane levels... someone with a 350z with the E-Manage could use something like a really small 3:1 or something just for a little kicker there that would make it require less additional of fuel per psi from the E-Manage, meaning your top end is a little higher.... this is a nice little trick that could help one who needs to get a few more ponies out of their current fuel injectors... its also nice cause you get the extra top end without having to compensate for larger injectors... just cant go overboard with crazy rates like 12:1.

 

Yeh...the Vortech FMU is 8 to1 with the stock spring in it . Putting over a 100 psi to the injectors at 8lb's of boost . That cant be to good on the injectors running that high , wouldnt think they are going to last long . A couple of Vortech guys have already had injectors go bad . Im having the shop install the AAM fuel system and RC 550's and dumping the FMU and aux. fuel pump . I'll have them up for sale if any of you want to try punk's suggestion

 

will the altitude affect this adversely???
...meaning, ernie and my e-01 show that we were putting out 7-7.5 lbs of boost when a mechanical gauge showed that we were actually putting out 8.5-9lbs of boost.
is this setup difficult to figure out (will doing this for the first time for a tuner be difficult, any instructional guidance you could reference?, or is it not necessary?)

 

Any variances in guages is just that.....variance due to the accuracy of the guage itself. It really has nothing to do with altitude. if you have a quality electronic guage, and a quality mechanical guage, they will both read the same thing. Neither of them has any type of compensation for altitutde....nor is one needed. 8psi is 8psi no matter what the altitude. Of course, due to altitude, this will have a different impact on power production.

 

so the most likely explanation of why the e-01 and a mechanical gauge produce boost #'s that are a 2psi difference is because of where the sensor is mounted? possibly?

hmmm

 

a 2 psi difference from your e01 to your mechanical boost gauge?

perhaps a small vacuum leak? or maybe you have an autometer boost gauge... those things come wiht the needle all over the place sometimes they read 2 psi just sitting in the box.

 

i dont think it was an autometer...i 'll get back to u guys...phunk: the main studs wont be available till 1/05, they should be sent out by second week according to what i was told, the head studs have been sent out already

 

how nice of them to tell me they had it all in stock...

 

phunk:
they told me the same thing, then sent me an e-mail confirming they were sending the head studs...i called them immediately, and they told me that they didnt get the mains in on a shipment they were expecting (i heard the same bullsh!t story from 2 other places)...these guys at least claim they will get them first...as long as i get mine by 2nd week of feb, it wont set me back, hopefully u are in a similar situation!