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Stillen Belts And Pulley Problems

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Old Jan 4, 2005 | 04:02 PM
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Default Stillen Belts And Pulley Problems

Just broke my third blower tensor!! Have replaced the other serpintine belt twice and the supercharger belt three time in under 9 months! They have worked on all of pulleys and have gone through major belt squeelimg many times. My dealer is doing his best to fix the problem but I have to pay for the labour. Does anybody no how to fix these problems ??
stage 2 stillen
runs great but lots of problems.
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Old Jan 4, 2005 | 04:08 PM
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Ditch the Stillen ..
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Old Jan 4, 2005 | 04:15 PM
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I havent seen a Stillen set up in person . But with all that trouble , my guess would be a bad bracket [warped ] or the blower doesnt sit right on the motor . If the bracket that holds the pulleys isnt true....you'll never get the pulleys to line up right. The same would go for the blower . I would be asking for a whole new set up . But knowing the trouble people have had with Stillen..it will be hard going...good luck...Bill
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Old Jan 4, 2005 | 04:22 PM
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Could the belts be too tight? Or the the alignment of center? Don't know alot about superchargers, but just throwing a few ideas out there.
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Old Jan 4, 2005 | 05:49 PM
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hmm, I've had mine on for 9 months and never had a slippage or breakage problem. Seems like something isn't lined up right, but there isn't really any way to get it out of whack it seems.
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Old Jan 5, 2005 | 01:22 PM
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The idler arm broke last night and it sounds like a diesel truck. got a new one and can you believe that the part is not made in the USA. It looks like the pulley on the crank is out of line as the belt does not look straight when the engine runs. The real bad news is that the dealer only warrentys the parts for 6 months.
He helped me out today and I am very grateful for his help with the new part. I thought that Stillen warrenty was for one year on all parts? Will try to call Stillen and see what they have to say.
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Old Jan 6, 2005 | 02:44 PM
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Got a call from my dealer and he spoke to Stillen and they have a answer to the problem. Stillen returned my phone call and were a pleasure to deal with as they are helping me resolve this problem. This is the second time I spoke to them in 4 months and they gave me great service.
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Old Jan 6, 2005 | 07:19 PM
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I have always had very good service with all the folks at Stillen.

They are there to help, just ask!
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Old Jan 7, 2005 | 12:50 AM
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Heh, wish I could say the same... but after $1500 in troubleshooting problems with that kit, I've gone numb.

I too have belt squeal, although not as bad as before. My alternator also went bad (got new one in there), it started making noises when spinning, as well. One of my belts is breaking apart at the edges, so I do think this is due to bad alignment on the belts, and I think your issues are similar. I wish there was a way to clearly identify what is out of alignment - blower, or pulleys.
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Old Jan 7, 2005 | 04:01 AM
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I am about to buy a Z and a Stillen SC. I am going back and forth between buying a new Base Z or a used Z for the SC. Do you think it really matters? How do you like the Stillen SC route (as opposed intake/headers/exhaust route)? Any idea how base model SC Z will handle (doesn't have limited slip differential rear)...I will have to install one huh? I am really interested in bascelik, z eiliminator, and 2003z and their experiences and advice, but anyone else's experiences will be appreciated. I prefer PM. Thank you all!
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Old Jan 7, 2005 | 04:48 AM
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My experience, although different from the other 2 guys is that if you want a nice boost in hp without a lot of worry, and don't plan on wanting to upgrade to even bigger numbers, stillen is the way to go. Regardless, you probably want to go with an enthusiast over a base for the extra features. its well worth the money.
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Old Jan 7, 2005 | 12:23 PM
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Though I've had problems, if you don't its a great kit. However, I'm not as optimistic as 2003z, so...

I'll add a few more engineering shortcomings IMHO (but which kit does not have them ), because I think it is important to know them. All are my opinions/observations, and I'm just a user, not an expert, so take as is:
* M62 blower is not a perfect fit for engine of this displacement. An M90 blower would've been much better.
* Heat soak will kill HP in hot climates. Vented hood and thicker intercooler would've been very beneficial.
* Due to M62 blower being small, we surpass its maximum continuous operating speed even at Stage 2 kit. Anything over 8psi would produce too much stress on this little 1L blower. So, keep your hopes for big HP with another kit -- this one's good for about 340whp max IMHO.
* Due to space in the engine being small, some belts are quite thin, and pulleys are very small to provide necessary spin for the M62 blower. With heat soak, pulleys expand, reducing boost (bigger pulleys would not be so affected by this). Thin belts tend to want to slip and wear out quicker, especially over such small pulleys.
* Putting headers or hi-flo cats reduces boost and power.
* CAIs and short-ram intakes make a very loud combo with this blower kit. Think sirens.
* Kit adds about 50lbs to the front of the car and you lose your strut bar. Makes a diff in weight distribution.
* It'll cost you extra $$$ to paint the required hood (unless you get carbon fiber).
* Coolant is circulated with an electric pump. This pump is connected to power over a 2Amp fuse. The fuse can go out, leaving you running without IC effect, thus risking detonation. There is no indicator the pump is out, so you have to check it from time to time. Also, 5Amp fuse would be better, I'd venture to guess.
* Fuel/Timing controller is preset. That means you're running timing that is set to lowest common denominator -- e.g., 91-octane crappy CA gasoline. If you're anywhere else, you're not running optimal timing for better gas. Also, whatever A/F you wind up running, you're stuck with it. No fixin' it. I happen to be running lean, so go figure...

Last edited by bascelik; Jan 7, 2005 at 12:27 PM.
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Old Jan 8, 2005 | 04:26 PM
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Thanks, I beleive I am going with a used Track model which already has a NISMO exhaust put on (from cats back). This should be fine with the SSC since it was from the cats back as to not change air flow. I too am a user (less knowledge in cars through) so I definitely want no hassle and will not be upgrading any further for more HP. I don't understand your info on the gas? What octane gas will I be needing to use? 91 is good around here...and with the prices I don't really want to run that high octane. Why do I not need to paint a carbon hood? Are they pre-painted to the same color as car? Did you get new hood or the scoop to just apply more details and pics would be great.
Thanks for all inputs
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Old Jan 8, 2005 | 04:41 PM
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carbon fiber is a black hood, but glossy and can be left unpainted, if you like that look.

you need to run at least 91 octane,but i think it requires it anyway.

here is the cf hoodscoop, i didn't like it, too much of an add-on look
Attached Thumbnails Stillen  Belts And Pulley Problems-cf-hood1.jpg  
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Old Jan 8, 2005 | 04:42 PM
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another
Attached Thumbnails Stillen  Belts And Pulley Problems-cf-hood2.jpg  
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Old Mar 29, 2005 | 01:57 PM
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Im sure youve probably fixed the squeal by now, but I had the same problem and Stillen sent me a new updated tensionor. That also didnt help the squeal. We later realized the squealwas from the same belt that runs the power sterring pump. They tightened that and it has not squealed since. Other than that I have loved the Stage 2 Stillen SC system its great.
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 08:27 AM
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Default Belt squeal...

...has been resolved by me, by cleaning the whole assembly with brake clean (thorough cleaning!). Nevertheless, the alternator squeal remains. If you heard it, you'd say -- "I don't want to drive THAT" that's how bad it is. I drive it rarely, it is waiting for new pulley (8psi), tuning, and new (3rd!) alternator. I'll take the old alternator and dissassemble it, to find out what is causing the squeal.

Regardless of whether there is belt squeal, there certainly IS belt slippage. Primarily on the small belt. I too have received new tensioner, which didn't do dipsquat. Chalk that one down to bad engineering on part of Stillen's R&D team. Donnow if they hold B.S in Engineering, but 4rib belt should've been 6rib. Oh, don't tell me there isn't enough space, go check again, Stillen!
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 09:21 AM
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Guys, call Stillen and get a new shim.The stock system has a shim under one of the pulleys that looks like a half washer.Ask for Colin,he'll fill you in.
They told me, that they dropped the washer out of the first few jobs they did with out knowing.
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 09:22 AM
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Baselik, have you verified that your belts are all aligned and there no problems there?On the alternator issue, seems like that would point to a belt that is too tight and that you are ruining the bearings of it, ie the squeal...is the tensioner adjustable at all or is it just a spring device? On the 4 rib verses 6rib, I completely agree with you, but wonder if this isn't due to Eaton/Magnusson rather than stillen. I had SC on Miata in past. Just guessing that they may get the kit with the pully preinstalled and set from Factory, then they integrate it into the application...seems like stocks are made of steel, when you go for the extra boost it seems that they are CNC aluminum..ie stillen makes these...I am still looking at this for my FX35, but don't want to have all the belt issues...I would guess I had to change it every 7K on the miata...
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by weslutes
Guys, call Stillen and get a new shim.The stock system has a shim under one of the pulleys that looks like a half washer.Ask for Colin,he'll fill you in.
They told me, that they dropped the washer out of the first few jobs they did with out knowing.
What is the purpose of the shim?
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