Turbo Kit on a A/T & tiptronic Z
I am a bit of numpty when it comes to engines, but I was wondering if I can add a turbo kit (say APS) to my car even though it has an Automatic and tiptronic grearbox?
It may be a bit of a stupiod question, but i have to ask.
Thanks guys.
It may be a bit of a stupiod question, but i have to ask.
Thanks guys.
Originally posted by yorky500
I am a bit of numpty when it comes to engines, but I was wondering if I can add a turbo kit (say APS) to my car even though it has an Automatic and tiptronic grearbox?
It may be a bit of a stupiod question, but i have to ask.
Thanks guys.
I am a bit of numpty when it comes to engines, but I was wondering if I can add a turbo kit (say APS) to my car even though it has an Automatic and tiptronic grearbox?
It may be a bit of a stupiod question, but i have to ask.
Thanks guys.
not 100% sure but I think if you get a turbo(s) or a super you need to use the tiptronic when your going WOT but I think its ok to go full auto for track and daily driving... but I really don't know for sure.
Mainly all you need to do is get the valve body and tq converter done. A nice place to get this done at would be SGP Racing. They have already done one on a Z and said it worked out great. They also sell tq converters there. I was thinking Level Ten but have changed my mine to try someone else for a change. With manual or auto, going turbo you will need to stiffen up the tranny to handle the hp so it does not do damage or make it slip. I think if you get the valve body done you will not need to worry about it going over the redline. Also the reflash helps out. Manual mode through is the best way to race it through.
the car is not intended to be driving in automatic mode when a F/I application is added....the D (drive) mode wont shift in time, that why u must shift with the tektronic mode, or manual mode whatever you want to call it. There is much more control of the car in manual mode i beleive. automatic (drive mode) the car doesn't stop moving...and brakes are more dependant, when u could just downshift with the manual mode.
Ben Yavari
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Ben Yavari
AAM
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What's up Ben. I knew I were see you here. This is are type of tread. I talked with a couple people and they said once you get the vb done that it can run perfectly in auto mode. Also, they said that the reflash helped them out to. Has altered had any experience with the reflash helping them shift in auto mode? I know a couple of auto people with F/I on this forum without the vb done said the reflash helped them out where they can now run in auto mode.
Thanks for the replies, trouble is though I am not in the States, but in the Desert sands of Dubai in the UAE, so not sure where i can get this done!
perhaps try Nissan dealership? can they be trusted?
perhaps try Nissan dealership? can they be trusted?
Originally posted by yorky500
Thanks for the replies, trouble is though I am not in the States, but in the Desert sands of Dubai in the UAE, so not sure where i can get this done!
perhaps try Nissan dealership? can they be trusted?
Thanks for the replies, trouble is though I am not in the States, but in the Desert sands of Dubai in the UAE, so not sure where i can get this done!
perhaps try Nissan dealership? can they be trusted?
Thanks Aggro_Al,
Anything to do with engines is not a do-it-uself job when it comes to me! hahahahahahahahaha.
I am dead scared of touching engines. Everything else is OK ish, but engines! Let me see what I can source around here.
Anything to do with engines is not a do-it-uself job when it comes to me! hahahahahahahahaha.
I am dead scared of touching engines. Everything else is OK ish, but engines! Let me see what I can source around here.
yea most people forget about the install and tune pricing. A friend of mine has his heart set on a g35c and a vortec... he figured ~30k for a used g35c and 5k for the super. I seriously hope he doesn't buy it even if he is willing to pay the 3 to 4k for the install and tune b/c if anything goes wrong he really can't afford to get it fixed.
Vortech does not cost that much to install if you get the right person. Just to install it at most shops will run you around $700-1200. Its not as nearly as hard as a twin turbo. You can get a car tuned pretty cheap too and right if you also find the right shop. Some shops don't know how to tune very well and they over charge. Their are acouple places around here that do that. I know from experience. One shop claimed they were so good and other people recommended them to at first until I blew a spark plug on my turbo civic. I don't know if I was running lean or rich but the spark plug blew cause of dentnation and blew in half.
On the street I have had zero problems shifting in either mode. No experience on the track to report.
This thread may provide some additional info.
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....ight=Whosdaddy
This thread may provide some additional info.
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....ight=Whosdaddy
my female friends auto 350z has ati procharger and level ten valve body upgrade along with alot of other performance bolt-ons and I can definetly tell you that the level ten upgrade did not correct the "bumping the rev-limiter" problem when driven in auto.
What is worse is that level ten said they were completly aware of this issue and that it WOULD fix it.
After I installed the Valve body and complained NOW they tell me that they reccommend a reflash to raise the rev-limiter
The shift command cannot be adjusted as far as RPM's go
The command comes close enough to Redline that the horsepower induced slip 'causes the transmission to take just a little too long to complete the shift and therefore it hits the rev-limiter.
Shifting in manual mode sucks because the time between your input and when the TCM initiates a shift makes it neccessary to shift at around 5600 in order to have any hopes of staying out of the rev-limiter.
This is a horrible way to drag race; ruins consistency.
What is worse is that level ten said they were completly aware of this issue and that it WOULD fix it.
After I installed the Valve body and complained NOW they tell me that they reccommend a reflash to raise the rev-limiter
The shift command cannot be adjusted as far as RPM's go
The command comes close enough to Redline that the horsepower induced slip 'causes the transmission to take just a little too long to complete the shift and therefore it hits the rev-limiter.
Shifting in manual mode sucks because the time between your input and when the TCM initiates a shift makes it neccessary to shift at around 5600 in order to have any hopes of staying out of the rev-limiter.
This is a horrible way to drag race; ruins consistency.




