Originally Posted by trefling

Just wanted to chime in


Just had my procharger installed on my Z with 9lb boost pulleys. Technosquare did the ECU tuning with 550cc injectors.

This thing is simply awesome! It sounds like a jet all through the rpm.

Originally Posted by overzealous1

i put on an ati kit about a week ago. it definately turned it into a different car. i got the kit used and not sure exactly what psi pullies are on but i know they are significantly larger than the 7psi it came with originally. in the initial test drive it shot up to 11psi at only about 60-70% throttle and less than 5000rpm. i was watching my boost gauge luckily and pulled my foot out of it as i had done no tuning yet and stock comp motor. ati says the compressor max. speed is 80,000 rpm and i am planning to set it at that, but first go with forged low comp internals because i don't want to take the bigger pullies off, hahahha (why yes i do have a broken parts wall with many rods and pistons and well pretty much every single internal part from small blocks i have grenaded) hopefully that will not be the fate of my vq35, but what the hell, sometimes it can be fun to see the destruction. and it gives me a real good excuse to built a stronger motor, lol.
i have heard some of the stories about people blowing their motors from the ati kit but there can be alot of variables that caused that. plus ati was one of the first to do fi on this car, which means even tuners were just learning about the car with not many people having experience with it.
i am in portland oregon and so far mine is the only fi Z i have seen. so people in the know that see the intercooler give a thumbs up. i have only had the kit on for a week i know but so far am pleased with it. about the only complaint i have (and it is my own fault, cause it is pretty loud) was using a different bov that vents to the outside and not back into the intake tract like ati designed it. but in my opinion they put it in the wrong place. it should come off the tube running after the intercooler and not before the intercooler so it would not vent hot air back into the intake raising the chances of detonation. it is an easy fix buy just using a different bov that vents to the outside, or just weld in another bung to the tube exiting the intercooler. i would advise this change to anyone who has not already done it. surprised really they over looked something so simple but it would surely make a difference in power as those temps before the intercooler can reach 150 or more degrees i'm guessing depending on boost. my bov is venting almost all the time at cruising speeds, but that is just the nature of the beast with a supercharger matching engine rpm and creating boost the motor does not require at cruising speeds, so until you get on it a little bit it is almost constantly venting. my case may be different than others as again i am running more boost. but when you do get on it the bov shuts and you do not need to wait for boost to start being made as it was already there. i have the bov set at a very high setting but it shuts easily and quickly so it would be a quick transition when i wanted more power. ( it contradicts what was said about setting the bov for the vortech above so correct me if i am wrong, but it made sence to me and any lower setting the bov was going off almost at idle too)
i feel as though i am rambling on now, but with no info about this kit yet maybe i gave some useful information to someone. i havn't seen or heard any posts about what kind of power or torque numbers this set up is capable with low comp and forged internals but if anyone does know i would like to know what the limit of this compressor is. thanks

Originally Posted by gspot35

You don't want a BOV after the intercooler on any s/c kit. Why intercool air you are going to expell, makes no sense. Good luck with you new s/c.

Originally Posted by nis350ztt

Are you answering overzealous1?

Originally Posted by gspot35

Yes as well as a general statement....the statement that ATI is wrong for placing their BOV where they did is incorrect. It needs to be before the FMIC.

Originally Posted by overZealous1

just saying if you are venting the surge valve back into the intake (which is the way ati made their kit, not sure of others) wouldn't you want the coolest charge going into your intake or do you not believe all the facts of colder air is denser and the millions of dollars being made and proven benefits of cold air intakes, lol. plus being fi, you desparetly want your air charge to be as cool as possible (ei. intercooler, lol) putting before or after the intercooler makes no difference as far as i can figure as long as you are venting the purge to outside.

Originally Posted by Sins4u33

ATI Procharger C-2 Unit w/ or w/o Intercooler

C-2 model are the first and only gear-driven centrifugal sport compact supercharger to feature self-lubrication

The self-contained design not only eliminates the heat that is transferred to a supercharger by engine oil in oil-fed applications, it also avoids the risk of clogged supercharger oil lines, oil drainage problems, or engine oil leakage.

55-60% HP gain
3 year supercharger warranty
100% complete bolt-on
8-10 hours install
Billet Mounting Plate
Air-to-Air Intercooler
Volute Diameter - 7"
Max Supercharged HP - 725
Base HP Range of Motor - 175-375
(Naturally Aspirated)
Max Boost - 24 psi (without having to rebuild the unit unlike vortech you must send it back in to have it rebuilt to spin this fast)
Max Impeller RPM - 80,000 Rpms
Self Contained unit (does not require to tap the oil pan like the vortech) has its own special formulated oil for the procharger,
oil capacity of 3oz

Basline WHP for stock 350z - 240whp...
after procharger w/ intercooler - 360+ whp on 7lb Pulley

more to come...

Ben Y
AAM

Originally Posted by trefling

Hey guys.. I just blew my engine with a Procharger at 9lbs of boost (Altered Atmosphere took off the intake manifold and saw shrapnel all over the engine, atleast I went out big). I really can't blame the procharger I should have had it properly tuned instead of just sending the ECU of to Technosquare. TS does good job, but it's a little more than just plug and play like most have read about around here. But not to worry, my car is currently at Altered Atmosphere and they are going to fully build my motor and turn the boost up on the procharger up to 18 psi. The procharger is loud at idle with just 9lb boost pulleys, I can't imagine how it is going to sound with the 18lb pulleys




Am I pissed my motor blew? Absolutely! But having the chance to build it back even better than before makes it all worth the trouble.

Trefling

Originally Posted by gersteinp

This has been dealt with in other threads, however, I'll share my own experience.

BOV--On the factory setting recommended by Vortech (spring adjuster all the way out), I seemed to be losing boost until really gunning it over 4K RPM. I could hear the BOV scrubbing off pressure even when accelerating around 3-4K. This was immediately fixed with a big increase in boost (perceived, not measured) by adjusting the spring preload set screw in so it was showing about 6-7 threads above the jam nut. I listened carefully for any flutter which indicates excessive back pressure when lifting off the gas--none at this setting. How you do it: using a 13 mm box end wrench, back off the jam nut at the base of the screw until loose. Using a small Allen key (I think 3 mm) on the end of the screw, wind in the screw (shorten) a few turns until 6 threads or so are showing above the jam nut when you tighten it back down to set the screw at that position. Be sure to listen for deceleration flutter (a sign of potentially damaging surge). If you get this, reset the screw outwards until eliminated. You can check this just by revving the engine and then letting of the gas--no need to drive it.

Cogged drive belt: This needs to be loose when checking the underside--about an 1/2 inch or so of play both up and down. I know it's crazy, but the idler pulley on top of the cog belt between the two cogged pulleys will keep the belt in full contact even though the belt seems rediculously loose. How to set it: while engine is idling, hold the 19 mm nut with an open end wrench and grab the 17 mm bolt head with a box end. Loosen, then slowly pull up (ie. loosen the pulley on the belt) until the clunky vibration at low idle is quieter but you don't hear cog noise (sounds like the cog belt would start jumping teeth). There's a sweet spot. Tighten firmly here and place a few drops of red LockTite on the threads behind the fixing nut. Now, at idle, there shouldn't be too much vibration in the jack shaft (a sign that the pulley is set too tight). After turning off the engine, the bottom of the cog belt should have the play mentioned above. If the belt starts jumping teeth or is getting prematurely chewed up, the pulley needs tightening later.

Hope this helps.

Originally Posted by booger

The HP and tq should be lowered for the Vortech . The 412whp is the highest Ive seen , and thats with a 2.87 pulley . Most will get 100 to 120 whp over base line with the 3.33 pulley

Originally Posted by gspot35

Works with older G's motor driven fans by replacing with an aftermarket electronic fan. My 03 sedan needed the room in the front. I used a Flex-a-lite dual 12" fan with adjustable thermostat.

Originally Posted by mcduck

True, though some other mods will help pull bigger gains. In my case, I saw over 150hp gain adding the Vortech using the stock pulley (see dyno). The best argument for my larger gains are that I have done cams and good aftermarket headers. Most have not done the second item and I'm not sure anyone other than me has done cams with a SC.

Personally, I've had great success with Vortech and would recommend it to anyone. With that, there are a few minor items to note.

KNOWN VORTECH ISSUES
FMU - In some cases, the Vortech kit FMU seizes up. This happens when residue from gas builds up on the washer valve inside the FMU. The result is the washer sticking creating a pressure build up in the fuel line than can pop the fuel line off one of its fittings. Fix is to buy the rebuild kit for the FMU (around $39). Mine did this around 6K miles. Others have done this, but I don't know the mileage. Preemptive solution could be to add fuel additive or high octane gas occasionally. Since I've started this more regularly, the problem has not reoccured.

Strut Bar - If you run a plenum requiring you to replace the strut bar (like the Crawford), then the Vortech means you will have to run with no strut bar. This may be an issue for some. I didn't notice a difference in handling on my car after it was removed.

Belts - Serpentine belt on Vortech tends to "loosen" over time. To keep a good snug fit, a new belt may have to be adjusted 3 or 4 times to ensure there is no belt slippage.

That's all that come to mind now. If I think of anything other items, I'll post them.

Originally Posted by axxizzer

The stillen supercharger that I had responded very well to flow upgrades like headers cats and intake. I ignored what Stillen said and went ahead with those mods, which worked out beautifully. I also suggest the Technosquare Custom reflash for the airflow mods. Cams made tons of power too, come to think of it...

At the end of my mods, my stillen stage 3 supercharger made 360WHP and 344WTQ if my memory serves me correctly.

Originally Posted by mzack

I went with Stillen Stage 1 for a couple of reasons. First, I am new to the FI world and I am nervous about blowing up my engine. I went with a moderate gain package that I felt had a sufficient amount of gain without the worry since there is a warranty and no claims of failure as of yet. I know the other models listed above show higher gains but I felt the options Stillen provides is a great alternative to reflashing, etc... I can upgrade my SC to Stage 2 or 3.