trying to figure out what clutch you guys with over 400whp run and how they behave.

oh...one more thing. How many stuck with the stock flywheel vs. a lightened aftermarket unit?

 

ats clutch w/lightened flywheel (ats)

 

^^^1+^^^

Twin disc full face floating carbon discs and lightened flywheel. Entire assembly weighs just under 26lbs. Good for 700ft/lbs + and should last the life of the car.

The JGTC teams use the triple carbon version of this clutch with a heavier flywheel, and they go two seasons on the same clutch.

 

Why do they go with a heavier flywheel and not a lightweight type?

 

Hey man,

I have been using the ACT 6 puck clutch combined with the nismo chromali flywheel. The combo is amazing. The rev matching is perfect for me and the clutch, obviously, never slips. I have not had one problem of the clutch not grabbing, ever.

I went with the Nismo one because I didn't want to go too light and through off my torque curve. The Nismo seems to have been the right choice, for me.

When I finish building my motor, however, I will be switching to the ACT twin disk

btw, still looking for what the WindycityZ is doing for out meet. Should have substantial information by the middle of the month.

 

Sorry...typo on my part. I meant they go with a heavier "pressure plate". Same lightened flywheel.

 

I've been using the JWT flywheel and clutch for 2000 miles now and no problems. Holds great.

 

oh yea sorry, 10k on the clutch and flywheel. 5.5k with 6.5psi and the rest with 7.5psi. I only bring her out to race, so the clutch is definately used/abused

 

Clutchmaster Stage 4 clutch and lightened flywheel. I don't recommend this set up though because it is not user friendly. Too harsh of engagement from a stop with very little room to slip the clutch. Very grabby. I'm looking for a new clutch and flywheel package that will hold the power, but also let me have the feel and control to slip it like the stock clutch.

 

Gq, what is the price on that? Do you have a link?

 

Thanks for all the input guys....I think I'm down to either the ACT or the JWT. I don't plan on building the motor for a while so I'm not too worried about picking a clutch that will hold massive power. I'm more into a closer to stock feeling clutch that won't burn a hole in my wallet.

 

Stock with 6,000+ miles. No problems yet.

 

how much power are you making and on what FI kit???

 

415rwhp, 356tq with Vortech.

 

I have the Clutchmaster Stage 4 with no complaints. It is a little harsh on the street, but not an on/off switch. The Stage 3 is much easier to drive and will still habdle tons of tq/hp.

I am upgarading to the ATS twin disc carbon w/ the 1350 pressure plate and CM coatings. I have driven this clutch and it is unbelievable. Unfortunately, it will burn a hole in your wallet. The Clutchmaster is more affordable.

Keep in mind any puck clutch 4 puck or 6 puck will not be easy to slip and more difficult to drive on the street.

 

Stock clutch with APS TT 404 rwhp. 3000+ mi

 

wow...can't believe you guys have no issues with the stock clutch....well with the supercharger I can see it since it doesn't generate as much peak torque as the turbo setup...but an APS setup with a stock clutch is impressive.

 

Bri, the stock clutch can handle the load of 450whp/trq, but it cant even remotely begin to control the slippage and force generated from a standstill drag racing start.

So although it can hold the power from a cruise, or on a dyno....it will instantly overhead and burn if you try to slip it from a start. My stock clutch was completely smooth when I removed it.

 

ah...ok..that makes much more sense....definitely swapping the clutch out BEFORE the turbos

 

My stock clutch lasted 5000miles of daily driving until I took it to the track, on the second run it sh#t it self. (APS TT 400+ rwhp)

Cheers