Hey SungNam, mine read 87% originally, but I set the datalogger to calibrate the TPS to the data range, so it sets the high point, 87, to 100.

A few questions about your graph:

First of all, that A/F is just gorgeous.

Second, why is it only reading 2.9 lbs of boost at 6000 RPM?

 

Not sure why the 2.9 pounds of boost. Called Vortech and they asked where I was getting boost input. As you know, with Kinetix, it is just behind Throttle Body. They said OK! Now, what is your RWHP? I advised them 333 RWHP. There response was that "the HP numbers are good, but we don't understand why only 2.9 pounds of boost". Further suggested I "get another gauge and check it out".

Perhaps the boost sensor from Zeitronix is bad? I did have a bad ZT-2. Any thoughts?

I have a couple areas in A/F I would like to adjust. A little "lean" going into WOT and "rich" between 5700 and 6300 rpm. Otherwise I am very happy.

 

CaneZMD and booger, I have been exchanging e-mails with zbigniew at zeitronix for the past hour trying to get an answer. Can't believe he is working.

He had me do a test. Turned my key on, without engine running and read my "boost". It showed: -05.5.

Per zbigniew: "Your boost sensor is showing the right things. MAP sensors by definition are Manifold Absolute Pressure sensors. Atmospheric pressure at your altitude (i.e. Albuquerque = 5100 ft) is -5.05 inHg. Your engine makes 2.9 PSI Alsolute pressure. Those are pleasures of tuning at higher altitude. Everything changes, AFR, concentration of oxygen in the air, alsolute pressure. It's a different ball game than Florida. Kind of like tuning car in winter and summer. Ambient temps and changes in oxygen concentration from the temperature make a difference. Welcome to the art of tuning " "This is how boost gauges work in general.. You just do not notice it as easily on the mechanical gauge. Besides mechanical gauges are usually off from the get go. Once you roll down to the sea level your Zeitronix will show 0 PSI (+/- variations in the atmospheric pressure in a given day).

Cameron, it would be interesting to see what your "Boost Sensor" displays with key on and engine NOT running.

 

When I get mine hooked up I'll let you know what it reads . Im at 800 ft or so .

 

Not sure if this is the case I guess it depends on what kind of logger you've got and where it's tied in but heres some info.

If you were looking for a place to obtain a analog throttle position signal (0-5 volts) there are three possibilities and only one of them is right.

Pedal position output- (0-5 volts) not always relevent to throttle position. if your datalogger is tied into this it could still be trimming the throttle to 85% and you would not know it.

Throttle position 1 output-mechanically references the actual position of the throttle 0-5 volt output.

Throttle position 2 output-same as above except it has a 5-0 volt output.

I discovered this when hooking up our Dynojet wideband Commander/datalogger

 

A good electronic boost guage should auto zero itself for barometric pressure everytime the car is started. It has to have a power supply that does NOT go away while cranking the engine as that wil foul things up for the zeroing process. "Hot while cranking" signal is kind of hard to find on the Z.

 

Throttle position 1 output-mechanically references the actual position of the throttle 0-5 volt output.

Throttle position 2 output-same as above except it has a 5-0 volt output.

I discovered this when hooking up our Dynojet wideband



WFCALL
Do you know what pin number the correct one is ? I believe most are using pin # 50....so that one isnt the right one to use

 

Looked at the service manual and found the other TPS ..its pin number 69.....think I will try that one when I put the Zeitronix back in

 

I probably can't find it now, but the information I got from "Innovate! Motorsports" shows #62 for rpm signal and #50 for Throttle position sensor. Those should be the only two that have to be spliced into the ECU wiring.

 

Yes ....the manual shows...pin #50 as TPS 1 ...and pin #69 as TPS 2 . I got it hooked up on #50 now . If it shows 85% throttle , I'll hook it up to # 69 and see what it reads

 

To be completely honest with you I just got on the wires at the throttle body and started reading voltages until I got a 0-5 volt signal that correlated to the "butterfly" in the throttle body being moved by hand. I did this cause I did not have the service manual file at the time but I did know that there were multiple inputs/outputs off the throttle body.

I don't know if it is 50 or 69 but it IS the one that reads;

When referenced to a good ground

Almost 0 volts when the butterfly is closed
Almost 5 volts when it is opened by hand,

I say by hand so that we are not accidentally reading throttle motor input or pedal position voltages.

 

Mine read 0 when I turn it on with no engine running. I'm only about 30 feet above see level, so I guess I don't need any calibration.

 

Not really sure you could "calibrate" if you had to. Just have to mentally know that you could have a "negative" value, which needs to be taken into consideration when you see a positive value on Zeitronix LCD.

I guess that answers your question as to why I was only showing 2.9. I started at -5.05. Curious to see what booger is going to show at 800 feet in Nebraska.

So, zbigniew @ Zeitronix was correct in what he told me and what I quoted. If I should go to sea level, I would also show 0.0 + or -.

 

The autometer electronic boost guage we are using recalibrates itself each time it is energized. Whatever it sees as manifold pressure from the map sensor when the key is turned on and before the engine is cranked is assumed to be zero. That way boost read is true boost in psi above atmospheric at whatever altitude and barometric pressure is at that time.

 

I have a boost gauge in the car now . So after I get the Zt2 back I'll compare them

 

It looks like mine and CaneZMD's are working as zbigniew at Zeitronix described to me. Don't know if they have a way of doing what "afcall" has described?

 

Not sure how others do it...If it's mechanical with vac/press line running to guage I don't see how it could "auto-zero"

The way the auto meter works is through a map sensor...
As the key is turned on the guage swings back and forth and returns to 0 before the engine is started.....what it's doing is reading the manifold pressure before the engine is cranked which would be the same as atmospheric...
If you have the power for the guage hooked up to a source that is turned off during cranking it screws up the calibration....
The IPDM that manages power distribution in the Z turns off most of the stuff during cranking so it's hard to find a source that isn't just on with the key but off during cranking...
If y'all need to find this power source it is in the electrical block distribution block behind the drivers side kick panel and only half of this block stays energized during cranking.....
I've tested this by applying pressure to it before it's turned on and it will auto zero and read that as atmospheric.......................
The whole point is to read atmospheric as zero therefore ignoring changes in altitude and barometric pressure so that the guage reads "real" boost generated above atmospheric..

 

But, how do you get that to the Bosch electrical sensor that gets pressure from the Plenum?

 

I got mine hooked up . Boost sensor reads 0 with car off ..Key on . It reads -13 to -14 in of vacuum at idle . My boost gauge in the car says -6in of vacuum . Im at 800ft . Got an email in to Zeitronix .

 

Do you mean power to it or vac/boost signal to it?