2003z

iTrader: (7)

inside the car its normal sounding most of the time. when on the boost its a gentle whine, nothing overpowering. give me you email and i can send you a clip on the racetrack. its from outside, but it sounds the same inside. Its a little louder now with a popcharger.

chaps

There is a pretty good write up in the March Sport Compact Cars mag on the various superchargers...looks like they are going to take a look at the various types through the next couple months...This issue was on the Root/Eaton style and it highlights the stillen charger for the 350z. They have the typical marketing style of writing from these types of mags, but there is some good info and they touch on comparing them to turbos as well.

gspot35

As a side note, the tach's in our cars are way off at redline. 6600RPM is really like 6150-6250. So when you're talking about revving to 7100, you are actually around 6600 or so.

You need to find a way to ride in a S/c or TT car. It will change you're expectations.

redline350ZZ

iTrader: (1)

well if this is the case then the DYNO my car sat on was messed up too.....

I said take it to 6600 and the sheet showed 6600.............

EnthuZiast

iTrader: (4)

how so? Were you suprised! or dissapointed ??

AdamDC

The change to FI makes the car a whole new animal (no matter what the FI type is). Just look at the 1/4 mile times, every type of FI is putting people (with a decent launch) into the 12 second club.

I have never run, but I will this summer. 2003z is doing 12.8, and if you look at the vortech thread people are doing the same. The 12 second club is a pretty serious club.

gspot35

Right, what did your car say at the time of dyno? When my car's on the dyno, the operator doesn't look at the tach, he looks at the dyno monitor.

gspot35

If you've never taken a N/A car and put a F/I mod on it you're in for a treat. Once you start adding things like exhaust/intake to your car, and you start saying I think I got 5 hp or I think I got 10 hp from that. This is when F/I will simply scare the hell out of you on the first drive. And probably for the next 2 weeks or a month. BUT that feeling will eventually go away. You will most likely spend the 1st month learning about your kit. All of the intricate pieces and you'll start discovering how you can add more power. It consumes a lot of people. If you spend the amount of effort you are on deciding which to buy, you will spend a lot of time learning about the system you buy.

The reason I said you should take a ride:

You may decide you don't need that much power, you may not like all the new noises, you may not like the increased amount of maintenance.
I have a feeling you'll like it!

EnthuZiast

iTrader: (4)

Thanks Gspot35!
Maintenence?...I was hoping it would be very minimal with a SC like Stillen.

joe joe z

The only issues I have ever had with this Stage I s/c had to do with (and have to do) with belts braking - and that's the belt that connects to the s/c. This issue has been resolved for the most part (Stillen has changed the belts that they are using) and I have not had to replace the belt for about 5K miles. That said it is time to replace the belt. They cost about $20... and I can do it myself.

I'm also running synth oil - nothing new there...

What other maintenance are you refering to? So far this has been a very easy car to keep.

Gman2004

iTrader: (8)

He may also decide he wants more power when he feels it.....like what happend to me!

redline350ZZ

iTrader: (1)

They both matched........when I did my DYNO they verified the RPM matched before doing any run's......to ensure accuracy.....

redline350ZZ

iTrader: (1)

EnthuZiast

Im in the same boat as you..... I have the money for a kit but im still trying to decide which one to get...... I like the stillen a lot but there isnt much room for increase... atleast right now...... I may want more than 340WHP one day.....

AdamDC

Remember that the 340hp of the stillen is getting the same (or better) 1/4 mile times (12.6-12.8) as the 400+ vortechs.

That being said, the APS TT is putting z's in the 11's.

35ounces

iTrader: (5)

How is a 340hp car getting same times as a 400+ hp car ?

Gman2004

iTrader: (8)

EnthuZiast,

Why don't you stop by and see Charles ( Phunk) or Tuan (Zero2prove). You are so close to both of them. I am sure they can give you a ride in one of their TT's. Charles has a greddy and Tuan has the APS. They are excellent tuners. You don't know how lucky you are to have 350z specialists at your finger tips.

If you go with a s/c you will probably end up buying all the extra mods to make it faster....and if you go with stillen you have to spend $600 for a hood, not to mention get it painted. Lets add it up.

Stillen Stage 2 $5239
Stillen hood $589
Headers $300-$1200 (depending on which brand you choose)
Plenum $400
Pulley for moore boost $60
Exhuast $700-$1400
Total = $7288

I am going to add up everything using the least expensive exhaust and headers. The total comes out to $7288. That is only $162 less than the APS TT kit. Also don't forget when you add on all these mods to the Stillen or Vortech for that matter, you will have to have it retuned. Tunning cost about $125/hr. Figure 3 hr X $125 = $375 + $7288. Your total for the Stillen tuned with mods will be about $7663 without installation or body shop labor for the hood.

You can buy the APS TT from Tuan for $7450 and it comes tune already. It is a plug and play.....and end up with about 410rwhp and 385ft/tq. Just keep everything else stock on your car and you will still have more power and tq than the s/c modded......The best part is if you want more power in the future you have access to it, but the s/c will pretty much be maxed out.

That's my $20....I am done....and yes I meant $20 not $0.02.


Tuan currently has a 350z APS TT running 505rwhp on a stock motor.

http://www.350zmotoring.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=20979

This is Tuan website http://www.grdperformance.com

Charles ran he 350z Greddy TT at 467rwhp on a stock motor.

Here is one of his posts...

if you get the APS kit, wherever you buy it from have them load in the 93 octane map (if that octane is available to you) before they ship you the kit and it should have a pretty clean tune out of the box and put down mid 400's... at least i would think.

i just did a piston/rod/camshaft build for a customer and it made 455rwhp at 9psi on the APS 93 octane map and it was pretty clean already. so for those boost levels you might not really require extra tuning... i think it would be conservative enough out of the box and sacraficing just a little power for more safty.

if you go the greddy route just pick up the E01, ill get you special price on the CJM fuel system, add the MAP based tuning and ignition harness to your greddy kit and be in the same power area.

actually if this harness ever shows up this week, I have a greddy kit car that I am tuning for MAP with timing retard and the CJM fuel system, and I will be making the E-Manage tables available to the public so that a return fuel system, timing harness, and e-manage MAP accessories are all the Greddy kit owner needs to make the power they are looking for. my maps will be a conservative starting point for your E-Manage tuning, putting you in the position to only need to tweak to your own target goals.

Oh... and as for the subject of the thread... my greddy car made 467rwhp at 9 psi on stock engine and never blew up.

Gman2004

iTrader: (8)

BTW, I got those prices from a very competive website and the prices do not include shipping. I am sure Tuan has APS TT kits in stock, which will save you at least $200 in shipping for the all the mods you would get for a s/c.


Things that make you go Hmmmmm..................Do you see the big picture?

Tony@Performance

iTrader: (16)

Posts: 1,013 How is a 340hp car getting same times as a 400+ hp car ?


Since when does hp determine the qurater mile time of a car?

JimRHIT

iTrader: (6)

it's all in the launch.

traction traction traction

Yes, the APS Z ran 11s .. but not before he broke one of his axles dumping it at 5k on 10.5 etDrags.

weslutes

iTrader: (7)

The Stillen is upgradable,it just takes a lot of bugging the R&D team.
-First I started with stage 2(dyno at 300hp&tq across the whole sheet)
-Then a few months later I upgraded to the stage 3.(approx. 330hp&tq)
-Then I upgraded the intercooler fluid with water wetter.(lower cyl temp.)
-I still wanted more power up top, so I invested in a ZEX kit with all the goodies.I started with a 55 shot but you can start with a 35shot then move up in a few months.(55 shot put me at a conservitave 375hp&tq)
-Last,I bought a larger 7th injector & a bigger fuel pump along with some shorter belts,custom pulleys(8-9lbs), and a NX intercooler sprayer.

I'm still waiting to install the last because it takes over a month notice for custom tuning on Stillen's dyno.
With 8lbs, I should push 360 with my 5AT.
I plan on shooting a 35 shot which should bump me up to about 400hp.
Now remember,the SC steals a good 20-40 hp at that speed.So,with a good tune I should be safe.

side note: I have an Auto.When I went to stage 3,there was so much power that it shifted back & forth due to the open diff.(It was tricky& kinda scary some times) I then upgraded the rear end to a closed diff.(KAAZ) and that fixed everything.Now I can drift while sipping a coffee.