Ok so I'm FINALY going to start my car for the first time since the install on saturday morning.

Now my question is, should I leave it at stock boost (5.6 psi) or can I increase the boost to 6 or 7 psi from the start ?

Thanks !


Tasso-

 

its not a matter of how much boost for break in, its a matter of the tuning.

in your signature i am not seeing a fuel system, and I am not seeing E-Manage tuning add-ons... so your only safe to make about 360rwhp...which will happen between 5-6.5 psi on your built engine... these engines make so much power from every psi of boost that even .5 psi over where your fuel system is maxed out will create enough power to lean out the engine and ruin your fresh motor. Forged internals can take events of miss tuning a few more times and maybe a tad worse in those few times... but just like a stock engine it is very easy to destroy them. You can experience a little ping here or there and get away with it, but if you simply go out there and floor it at 7psi with a 15:1 A/F and no timing retard, its very likely that the engine will be ruined first or second time.

Put 100 miles on it and leakdown and compression test the motor and you should have changed the oil a few times by then too... by then it should leakdown good numbers and have great compression and that means its ready to go thru hell and you can start turning up the boost as the car gets properly tuned.

Tuning in these cars for high HP is divided into 2 meaningful sections... Fuel Injection and Ignition system tuning (EMS Tuning) and then the fuel supply system.

 

Thanks for the reply !

When I'm ready to go passed 7 psi I'll get fuel return system but not for now.

So is the timing harness the only thing I need from Greddy to address timing ?

 

as for boost i wouldnt focus more on boost as your fuel system capacities are more HP related then they are boost related. The first thing you should do is at least add a walbro 255 inside the tank... with just a walbro and the injectors that come with the greddy kit you are covered for about 415rwhp... thats the max I was able to push anything over that was too lean. I made that at 7.5 psi running 100 octane and stock ignition timing. If you are going to run pump gas it will require that you take out some ignition timing and run more boost to make those numbers.

But without a fuel pump, I wouldnt even try to go past 360rwhp.

The ignition harness is all you need, with the exception of those diodes everyone is using... something about it destroying the coils or not functioning correctly without the diodes... I am no electronic engineer so I can not explain wtf they are really doing for you.

I want to stress that you make sure you wiring for the E-Manage is 100% correct. The conditions are less then optimum to wire this stuff in the 350z, you have very little slack in the harness to work and the design of the ECU plug makes it more difficult to verify that you for sure got the right pin... if you mess up even a SINGLE pin on the E-Manage install your engine will be toast first time out.

BTW another great add on would be the Greddy MAP sensor... this will allow you to smoothly remove ignition timing as boost comes on... as in you can take out timing per PSI and based on RPM as well. Otherwise you are forced to pull out a static ammount of timing in the highest airflow areas of your E-Manage tune and it will not be a smooth transition.

By adding the MAP sensor and using it as your load basis for tuning... I beleive it will probably force you to tune the fuel based on MAP as well... which is time consuming and risky if not done by someone experienced... but its something you will need to do before your making big power anyway.

 

I do have the walbro fuel pump installed, but I'll be getting the return fuel system sometime next winter.

So how much power do you think I can push with my lower compression pistons before addressing timing, I'll be using 94 octane gas ?


Thanks again !

Tasso-

 

Great advice Phunk

 

hey charles:
ernie will by dynoing his car this weekend for 12-15psi (i'm not sure what he decised on)...we both have the $18 harness that , i think , you are referring to- i ordered last time this subject came up- a few months back- i'm pretty sure i have the correct little harness (don't have it in front of me- so i can't tell you exactly what they call it)

so the question:
what advice can you give on the pulling of timing..any special methods behind this?? i think my tuner is gonna contact you in the next couple of days to get your take on this process...
any info you could provide is extremely appreciated!!!

 

Base on this little chart I saw on the recent issue of DSport mag...going for 10:1 to 9.0:1 only results in a 2.8% power loss...so we can probably assum a rough 3% power lose just for the pistons...that is insignificant.

So at 6psi with exhuast, test pipes, and a solid safe, you should be near 375whp on a dynojet.

As Charles mentioned, the stock fuel system is a time bomb waiting to grenade your beautitful new motor. I'd suggest leaving boost around 6psi until you address the fuel system. With 94 octane gas, you "might" be able to get away without timing retard, but I would pull a couple of degrees at starting at 3000rpm....just to be safe.

On my built motor, we are running 13 degees of total timing advance via TS reflash...which is pretty conservative on 93 octane fuel. Stock WOT timing is roughly 22-26 degrees total advance.

 

can u explain this again sharif...
do you pull timing up top??? you said timing advance..please elaborate...what would u recommend for me to do..being that i don't have the ts reflash (yet)...how far can e-manage go in your opinion?

TODD

 

OK so I'll leave it at stock boost untill I send my ECU to TS for a reflash and to address timing.


By the way your car must feel sick now, congrats !

 

If you are going to pull timing with an E-Manage, I see little to no point to pulling timing with a reflash... not only that but I see a negative side to pulling it with a reflash, and that is that the timing retard will not be a smooth transition... Because with a reflash they can only tell how much airflow you have by reading the MAF... that means they can only pull a static ammount of timing for your boost... if you have them pull 7 degrees then when you hit max airflow its gonna suddenly drop 7 degrees of your advance... when in comparison with the pressure based E-Manage tuning you could pull it out 1 or 2 degrees at a time as pressure increases. THis would result in a more OEM *feeling* tune and should result in a smoother powerband... true OEM would be 100% MAP based or would use a larger MAF that supports the true airflow and then they could afford the resolution in the mapping to smoothly pull timing as airflow increases.

 

True, but I didnt have them reflash the ECU specifically to retard the timing. All I asked was for the them to copy the conservative timing map into all three locations, so that the ECU can't randomly decide to use a different map.

My point is that if you are spending the money to get the injectors rescaled via Reflash, might as well flash the timing maps, so you get a solid level of consistency coming out of the ECU. Then the eManage will work better for ya.

 

that sounds like a good idea... i am not opposed to that at all.

 

I taleked to AAM a while back in regards to their T reflash rpogram and they do this by recommndation also , setting all three pages to the same conservative map. I good idea IMO.

 

dude if i were you GMADD i'd research some more before really boosting at all...

good advice phunk

 

That's what I'm doing and I just need some advice but thanks anyway.

 

Congrats Tasso! (Greek?)

 

Thanks !

and yes I am

 

The day has finaly come, I got my car back and all I can say is .... WOW !!!


I drove it for awile and it feels sooo much stronger now and I wasn't even in boost.The Apexi BOV is just sweeet !

Can't wait to break her it and really get on it !

Thanks to all that helped !

Tasso-