Hey guys. Well the Brakes are on, wheels and tires. Everything that needed to be ready before I go hacking the engine apart for my FI plans. The question I have now is if I should go nuts and strengthen the engine for what I am looking for, or if it is just overkill.

I am not looking to build a 1000 horsepower car. I want to end up with a car that is just a mean son of a *****. I would say 450 rwhp... Adjustable because I don't want to drive around with that all the time. So my question is this. If my aim is about 450 give or take, what additions should I make to ease my mind that my turbos won't turn my car into a heap. My thoughts right now are to do the rods and pistons, but at the same time if I am doing these things should I just go ahead and balance the engine, get head studs, have all of the parts coated etc and have everything redone? Or am I being over zealous with my saftey concerns with my goals? Let me know what you think I should do for a ~450 rwhp engine, and let me know what you think is overkill. Thanks guys

~Josh

 

I had similar concerns as well. I was looking for about 400rwhp and told myself no TT unless I went forged internals. Well, that went out the window and the aps TT kit is on order for me. Peter from APS says there are cars out there with 60K-70K on them running their kit. Just stick with stock boost and a good tune and you should be around 390-425 whp. With my plans, the forged internals doubled the price of the setup. I am hoping to get 4 yrs of driving on the car which = 30K miles on the TT kit with stock motor. If you have the budget, do it all at once.

 

Well I am the one main person Peter speaks of... I have 71,000 miles on my bone stock block with almost 12,000 miles on my APS TT at over 400whp and 9lbs of boost. The car runs great. I do not feal it is needed to build the motor up if you are only planning on running this kind of power... The car bascially is at the point where it has too much power for the street... No traction in 1st or 2nd gear... If thats not enough for you, then maybe you might wnat to build the motor... Also, with a stock block and only 9lbs of boost, I consistantly run mid-high 11's at the track.... My best so far is a 11.67@119 and I just installed a new flywheel and clutch and will be shooting for a 11.5

 

What clutch were you running prior to this? Stock?

 

I was running the CM stage 3 before this one but after about 40,000 miles on it, it said goodbye.. My stock one didn't holdup to well to the power I was making NA and all of the racing.... I just got sponsored by Fidanza, so i am running there flywheel with an ACT heavy duty street clutch but I am sure thats not going to hold up very long... When that goes, I will will be switching to a 6 puck.... Unless ATS comes up with a better sponsorsip offer than the one I just got.....

 

Hey ONE,

Where did you have the APS installed? I'm on LOng Island and am looking for a reputable tuner. Ive decided on the APS kit. I'm thinking of doing the same....just bolt on and keep the boost low and my fingers crossed. I don't have 20k to put into the car.

 

email me @ jays350z@aol.com for info...

 

Im going with the APS TT and I will have my bottom end built up. I want about 450 rwhp, and I would rather have the reliabiltiy of the stronger internals. If you can afford it, I say do it. better safe than sorry.

 

I've also ordered the APS TT and with the jwt cam. Also spoke with several sponsors, Performance dealers, under 450hp stock should be fine. If plan to go highet than internals should be done. Talk to some of the sponsors on the forum, they're great and can give you excellent advice on the engine, hp, clutches, flywheels, etc. They're not bias, will give you excellent advice and they have their own modded cars they build up and test with, and than you'll can feel asured of what you want to do. That's the way I'm doing it.

 

I think you will be fine, but you will save alot of labor hours if you do it now. I ran 450whp for a year with no issues, even before return fuel systems and shielded crank wires. It can be done, but for how long. It's your car and your money. Look at it this way.. If you do it now, you save labor $ and you can always crank up the boost later. Just my .02.

 

Tim, so we meet again Yeah that is my debate right now. I want to do a one shot deal. I am definately changing the clutch and fly wheel at the same time, and am just trying to figure out what to do with the internals. With people saying no street traction with 420 rwhp I am thinking I want to stay there and under with adjustable boost settings in car. Of course also (not a flame) "Bolt it on and pray" I think is really risky because if ya blow up, you are going to lose more than 20k... But sounds like thus far that approach is OK. ARGHHHH I just have a ***** of a time making decisions when it comes to the car. Ah well I guess that is the fun ya? Oh by the way...

Are those 11.6 passes at 118 on street rubber? If it isn't still a sweet time but my god if it is ... big grins

~Josh

 

I don't think you will have to pray if you keep your stock block... Just make sure you install a reliable kit and have it tuned right... And my 11.6 pass was on MT ET Streets.... they are dot slicks.... But that was only with a 1.72 60' which isn't that great.... I will be racing again this weekend and testing out the new flywheel and clutch.... Shooting to beat my 11.6.....