What options would I have if i was looking to get around 300rwhp with the following conditions:

daily driver (with streaks of 5-10 minutes of stop and go - 6MT)
I don't track it
it's bone stock right now
easiest maintenance
would prefer to not void the warranty
want reliable power (ie...no worrying about blowing the engine)
don't want to rebuild any internals


I have read several of the FI threads and searched.....but it seems like the gains discussed are a little more power than I want in a daily driver. I know more power=better....but I also know myself.....more power=me doing stupid stuff

 

do a search man, been discussed a million times.

 

Stillen is really the only one that will offer you any type of engine warranty after install. They also offer many stages and performance levels for their kit. The only downside is that the hood needs to be replaced or modified.

 

I did see that about stillen's SC.

Would getting a single turbo and just running it at a low psi to achieve 300-320 rwhp be an option??? Would it mean more reliabilty/longevity from the engine??? Or is there a certain psi you shouldn't go below???

 

It depends on what the stock boost they release it with, if it is around 5 then yes but if it around 8 like some are then no.

 

A friend of mine has the GReddy TT kit (at 5.5 psi) and he is pushing 327 at the rear. That is w/ no exhaust or anything, just the TT kit.

You could buy an Evo, put on a 3" TBE, fuel pump, mbc, and ecu reflash (all under $1200) and be there no problem. Then add a set of cams and you will be pushing 340-350 AWHP.

Sorry, just had to.

 

and your point is?

 

I think he's saying u should spend 30-35k on a evo run it a 21psi and have 340 hp not that impressive considering anymore power would require all new turbos. Only plus is awd.

 

if you consider awd a plus

 

in my case, if I did, I would be driving an evo

something about a screaming NA in a RWD car..

then something else on a 500hp turbo V6 RWD car

 

I don't see the point in going FI for only 300rwhp. The only thing you will be beating are the STI's, EVOs, NA 350z's, and a few others.

 

I would go with the HKS SC for sure, especially since your car is stock.

 

Or you can just buy a g/z and spend another $20K on the motor and have a 550-650rwhp beast that kills almost anything on the road as far as performance and looks Although, the EVO is not as ugly as the STI it is still not a g/z.

If it was all about buying the least expensive car that I could mod for little money, I would have bought an old Gremlin for $800 and then put in another $15K in the motor....get the point?

Sorry, just had to.

 

You obviously don't read much about Evo's (which is fine). There are guys pushing over 400 AWHP on the stock turbo and intercooler. Add alcohol injection and more tuning and you are there (TBE, mbc, cams, ecu reflash). And 21 psi on one turbo isn't the same as 21 psi on a 18G like the Greddy's have. I don't know why people think that just b/c Evo's are running such high boost that running lower boost on another car makes it any faster. My point was that for under $2K you can be pushing 340/350 HP. You can't do that w/ many cars.

And I guess I should have put a smiley face at the end of my post so some of you would have seen it as humor and not as a biased remark. Freakin' lighten up guys! It's all in good fun!!

 

How the hell does an Evo have anything to do with this guy wanting to know what setup he should go with for 300rwhp? The answer: NOTHING!!!

 

How the hell did you not read my above post?

IT WAS A FREAKING JOKE PEOPLE. Do you guys not have a sense of humor?!? Damn people. Calm down.


Now, back on subject. If I were you OakTown, I wouldn't go FI. But I don't know how many ponies you will get w/ just bolt-on's and if it would equate to the same price as going FI to begin w/.

 

snap, I wasn't referring to JUST what you did. I was referring to your post and the following posts regarding the Evo...completely unnecessary.

 

You could get very close to 300rwhp with crawford headers, exhaust, test pipes/hf cats, cams, pop charger, crawford cast plenum or the new kinetix IM, trotle body, ur full pulley set, and a TS or AAM flash. A member Javi got 295rwhp with these mods. I would say all these things would cost at least $6K with labor.

 

Right, I completely understand Nis350. It was meant to be a joke. I should have put a smiley face at the end of my first posts. I don't want to start anything, I enjoy posting here and reading the thoughts of others. People took it out of context. It happens, it's the internet. No harm, no foul.

So where are you in GA? One of the guys here in Athens has a GReddy Z and another is going to buy the Turbonetic's kit next month. What kit do you have on your Z? Did you do the install yourself? We are looking to install the Turbonetic's kit ourself (3 of us).

 

well, since your thread is gone all to crap I will try to impart advice from personal experience.

You are getting into modding your z at a great time. Alot of people have gone out and blown motors already so all the newer folks can learn from their mistakes. I ordered my G in sept of 02 and GOt it Jan 21st 03. If i could do it all over I would not have blown so much money on the NA mods and gone straight for the turbo but those were not available then. If i were on a budget I would get the APS ST (assuming you dont need carb, i see you are in FL so i dont think you do). This will get you your ponies and most importantly a good tq curve at a reasonable cost and you probably dont need to worry about internals. Basically, noone can give you the answer of what to do. READ, READ, READ, there are tons of valuable threads here and many people to help you out. Hopefully, this wont turn into an APS vs Turbonetics thread. DO your research and decide for yourself and remember to take each thread with a grain of salt. There is just as much bad info out there is good. If want to make the leap to FI you must make the comittment to understand many aspects and consequences of the decision.