hi i just want to introduce myself im new to the forum and am considering picking up a z. i curently have a 2005 sti with about 420whp on 93 octane. i have an aps dr55 turbo set up with supporting mods. so i have a few questions about the z before i go and start a project with it. what 1/4 times and whp are you twin turbos putting down and at what boost level. i was looking into getting the aps kit and am going to run it on the stock block and compression ratio for a while (about 6 months) do you guys think the compression ratio is to high to bump the boost up to 9-10 psi without getting into detination.. i would think the block would handle that power and i would think that would be about 430whp. i would guess a 430whp car should run very low 12's correct me if im wrong. Is there anyone out there running around a 8.5:1 compression ratio and 1+bar of boost yet. What em are most of you guys running i know the aps tt kit comes witha unichip. Is there any em's similar to the utec that would be used on subys, that allows you to switch maps? aps says that the turbos they use are garrett gt2535r, would that be a hot side of a gt25 and cold side of a gt35r?? anyway thanks in advance and sorry for all these questions Brian

 

the search function would help answer many of those questions.

 

http://robrobinette.com/et.htm

 

0-60 4.3
1/4 mile 12.42 street tires
440whp
8.5psi
JWT Cams
I think the maps are being discussed.

I think that was all your Questions,

 

Out of the box the APS TT kit will get you high 11's or low 12's. Quality is the same as their Subaru setups. So far there have been no motor failures with the APS kit. Most people dyno between 400-450whp on this kit depending of course on the dyno manufacturer. I've been running 11psi for about 4-5000 miles I think with no issue's however I wouldn't recommend that kinda power with the stock motor. The only similar engine management to a Utec would be from HKS. Full timing and fuel control. The unichip so far works very well in this application and I don't see a real need to change it unless you are looking for 600whp or above.
What dyno was that DR55 tuned on. Pretty decent numbers for 93 on the STi.
-Tuan

 

it was on a dynojet thats why its on the high side on a dd dyno i would say its a 370-380whp car..

 

I don't know if this guy searched before posting, but in fairness to him the search button on this site sucks ****!

 

i know it sucks, but honestly most of us have read threads here that went over all of those questions. i would rather he got firsthand info from the ppl that know this stuff, than rehashed from me.

 

The APS TT is giving the best #s i think for TT. With a few other simple bolt ons, like test pipes, catback exhaust, at 10psi, you will be getting close to 500rwhp. I think some1 did like 10.5 on their Z stock block, and got like lil over 500rwhp. Not sure how long it lasted, it might still be going at that boost, but anything over 9 on a stock block is very risky. But if you plan to rebuild in 6months, might as well go for it right? Could even set a new record, boost to 11 and run the APS TT, and get well over 500rwhp .
Stock APS TTs on Zs, where people are gettn about 400rwhp at 8psi, people are running avg. high 11s i think. So with your 10psi you should be gettn some good #s.

 

Virtually all turbos make the same power at the same psi on a stock block. The APS may spool slightly faster, but you would never know it. The APS is the best out of the box, complete kit. All kits can be upgraded to be as good, but you will spend close to the same amount of $$ to do so. You could run 10psi on the stock 10.3, but most here would not recommend doing that on a daily basis. The biggest issue with the Z coming from a scooby is the traction. You will not hit low 12's or high 11's w/o DR's or slicks. HP does not equal 1/4 mile time unless weight and traction are identical. As far as those with built blocks and lower compression ratios, traction again is the issue, power is from 550whp to 575whp uncorrected.

APS is rumored to be working on a unichip solution to run multiple maps. You can do this with the HKS VPro, but you need to buy the Navigator to switch maps. You would be looking at spending alot more.

 

I hit a 12.42 on Michelin PS2's.
But my kit is not out of the box. The cams, testpipes and flywheel most likely helped achieve that as well. But I would say it is possible if you shifted and everything went right.

 

The cams and TPs definately help, the lighter lywheel's contribution ti reduced 1.4 mile times is questionable , since launching is more difficult and traction is still the primary limitiing factor. So basically the lighter fly has it's main benfit on a road course (speed matched shift and heel toe) but can be counter productive on the drag strip (with FI).