Are you standing up? ok, sit down for this one...
#61
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The cooling issue is an issue that has not been completely uncovered. We only know that high HP Z's, even as low as 450whp are demonstrating that there is excessive heat in the block. Now what? That is where the R&D comes in. There are a few reputable 350Z tuners working to solve this problem. Until it is solved, it may be time to turn down the boost. There are only a handful of built Z's out there, and a handful of problems. There will always be those who do not have problems, but the heat is a very real problem. Look for more information on this as possible fixes are discovered.
#64
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Originally Posted by t32gzz
We only know that high HP Z's, even as low as 450whp are demonstrating that there is excessive heat in the block.
Todd,
My condolences on your misfortune and mad props for pulling your block apart yourself.
#65
Condolences to all whom have sacrificed their cars in the name of building a monster Z. Someone has to blaze the path... I've not tried yet, but just when I think it may be safe, I may also end up taking one for the team so others may learn.
#66
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Originally Posted by MOTOP
Sorry for OT, but add one more to the list. Greddy TT@14lbs. We added radiator and oil cooler and that barely helped. We're planning on using electric fan for the cooler and see if that helps much. We use 98RON fuel.
Todd,
My condolences on your misfortune and mad props for pulling your block apart yourself.
Todd,
My condolences on your misfortune and mad props for pulling your block apart yourself.
Might want to also consider water/methanol injection, cools the chambers down quite a bit. nips some of the heat at the source.
#67
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Originally Posted by SpeedDreamTuner
If you only knew what goes on down here...
This the same customer whose publicly slandered our shop on several occasions on several forums, public and national. :
This the same customer whose publicly slandered our shop on several occasions on several forums, public and national. :
There were a few issues with the quality of your work at the time when I dealt with you guys...after pulling my motor out to rebuild the new motor...that is when i discovered all of the quality issues with your guys' work...(I wont list them again because it really is pathetic and old news) and let me re-remind you..the reason these things came out in the open, publicly (because I never had said anything publicly before) is because you guys started talking **** and critisizing my current shop!!!
Again, I will say it, you bring this all on yourself...
I tried to bury the hatchet, I even wrote you a PM telling you to call me so we could end this entire back and forth crap...but you choose to "hide behind your keyboard" and further stir the ****...
In my opinion, and as seen in the last couple of posts, in many others' opinion as well, you don't have anything useful to add...you don't know much about this motor...and you are not welcomed with arms wide open to this discussion
so, my advice to you, you can read what the big boys write on this thread and this forum, just try not to interject too often, because as phunk said, you make yourself and the shop that you work for...look like a$$holes!
TO EVERYONE ELSE HERE:
I am happy to share this information with you all, I will continue to try to help complile as much information about this motor as possible so that we can all avoid these costly situations
My car should be up and running this week, Sharif is flying out here so that we can all put our heads together and make this project Z a successful one!
#69
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Originally Posted by 350zDCalb
why would i do something like that? you didn't even work there when these things went down, you don't know me, you act like we go way back, WHO ARE YOU ANYWAY???...
and at the time of my disgruntledness (if that is a word)..it was due to the sheer attitude that you are perfectly demonstrating right now!
There were a few issues with the quality of your work at the time when I dealt with you guys...after pulling my motor out to rebuild the new motor...that is when i discovered all of the quality issues with your guys' work...(I wont list them again because it really is pathetic and old news) and let me re-remind you..the reason these things came out in the open, publicly (because I never had said anything publicly before) is because you guys started talking **** and critisizing my current shop!!!
Again, I will say it, you bring this all on yourself...
I tried to bury the hatchet, I even wrote you a PM telling you to call me so we could end this entire back and forth crap...but you choose to "hide behind your keyboard" and further stir the ****...
In my opinion, and as seen in the last couple of posts, in many others' opinion as well, you don't have anything useful to add...you don't know much about this motor...and you are not welcomed with arms wide open to this discussion
so, my advice to you, you can read what the big boys write on this thread and this forum, just try not to interject too often, because as phunk said, you make yourself and the shop that you work for...look like a$$holes!
#70
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MOTOP - Not many of us have publicly posted about the heat issue, because we were under the impression that it was only happening on guys running 15+ psi. Did you take the block apart? Were the pistons melted? Please share. I know of my car and one other with melted pistons. If yours are melted, that makes 3. Definitely an issue.
#71
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It looks like the issues are
1. Water pump does not flow enough volume
2. Restrictions in the path the coolant flows.
3. Collant in the rear of the block heats up faster than in the front. Temp sensor is in the front.
1. Water pump does not flow enough volume
2. Restrictions in the path the coolant flows.
3. Collant in the rear of the block heats up faster than in the front. Temp sensor is in the front.
#72
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Originally Posted by t32gzz
It looks like the issues are
1. Water pump does not flow enough volume
2. Restrictions in the path the coolant flows.
3. Collant in the rear of the block heats up faster than in the front. Temp sensor is in the front.
1. Water pump does not flow enough volume
2. Restrictions in the path the coolant flows.
3. Collant in the rear of the block heats up faster than in the front. Temp sensor is in the front.
When you mention melted pistons what are we talking about?? Fractured rings or actual deformation of the piston?
#73
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Unless I totally missed it, isnt the coolant temp sensor on the back of the head...located in that u shaped channel that connects the jackets between both sides of the head???
I have noticed that the 350Z tends to run very hot EGT's....most cars like to be in the 1250-1350 range...seems like ite not uncommon to see 1400 plus on these motors.
It might be safer to run these high boost motors in the 11.0:1 or 10.5:1 range and slightly more timing advance towards redline...to help keep EGT's in a safe range.
I have noticed that the 350Z tends to run very hot EGT's....most cars like to be in the 1250-1350 range...seems like ite not uncommon to see 1400 plus on these motors.
It might be safer to run these high boost motors in the 11.0:1 or 10.5:1 range and slightly more timing advance towards redline...to help keep EGT's in a safe range.
#75
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Originally Posted by Zues350ztt
This might be off topic ,but how much piston to wall clearence's is everyone using?
#76
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Originally Posted by Zues350ztt
This might be off topic ,but how much piston to wall clearence's is everyone using?
.003 for high silicon AL, and .004 for zero silicon Al. Each manufacturer will have their own piston to wall clearance guidlines, so this applies only to Arias pistons.
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Originally Posted by gq_626
Unless I totally missed it, isnt the coolant temp sensor on the back of the head...located in that u shaped channel that connects the jackets between both sides of the head???
I have noticed that the 350Z tends to run very hot EGT's....most cars like to be in the 1250-1350 range...seems like ite not uncommon to see 1400 plus on these motors.
It might be safer to run these high boost motors in the 11.0:1 or 10.5:1 range and slightly more timing advance towards redline...to help keep EGT's in a safe range.
I have noticed that the 350Z tends to run very hot EGT's....most cars like to be in the 1250-1350 range...seems like ite not uncommon to see 1400 plus on these motors.
It might be safer to run these high boost motors in the 11.0:1 or 10.5:1 range and slightly more timing advance towards redline...to help keep EGT's in a safe range.
I always felt my Z ran cool egt's, The MAX i've ever seen was about 1400*F which is ~750*C. That cool as hell, which most likely means it's running quite a bit of advance. I think my engine failure may have been from pulling too much timing with the emanage. I don't think the stock pistons could hold up the the extra heat. Forged pistons on the other hand love heat, so that's good.
I'm putting the 9:1 arias pistons in my motor, they better not break. The first thing I said when I saw them was they are probably the least beefy forged piston i've ever seen. Sharif, how do the CP's match up to the Arias pistons? Can you post a pic of the bottom showing the thickness of the skirts?
#78
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Originally Posted by gq_626
Unless I totally missed it, isnt the coolant temp sensor on the back of the head...located in that u shaped channel that connects the jackets between both sides of the head???
I have noticed that the 350Z tends to run very hot EGT's....most cars like to be in the 1250-1350 range...seems like ite not uncommon to see 1400 plus on these motors.
It might be safer to run these high boost motors in the 11.0:1 or 10.5:1 range and slightly more timing advance towards redline...to help keep EGT's in a safe range.
I have noticed that the 350Z tends to run very hot EGT's....most cars like to be in the 1250-1350 range...seems like ite not uncommon to see 1400 plus on these motors.
It might be safer to run these high boost motors in the 11.0:1 or 10.5:1 range and slightly more timing advance towards redline...to help keep EGT's in a safe range.
I'll plug again for water/methanol injkection again. I have noticed over a 200F drop in EGT on other apps with very small volumes Water injected. It is cheap and it really does work.
#79
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Originally Posted by gq_626
.003 for high silicon AL, and .004 for zero silicon Al. Each manufacturer will have their own piston to wall clearance guidlines, so this applies only to Arias pistons.
#80
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Originally Posted by etx
Most stock cars run much hotter than that. They have to for emissions, it heats the cat up.
I always felt my Z ran cool egt's, The MAX i've ever seen was about 1400*F which is ~750*C. That cool as hell, which most likely means it's running quite a bit of advance. I think my engine failure may have been from pulling too much timing with the emanage. I don't think the stock pistons could hold up the the extra heat. Forged pistons on the other hand love heat, so that's good.
I'm putting the 9:1 arias pistons in my motor, they better not break. The first thing I said when I saw them was they are probably the least beefy forged piston i've ever seen. Sharif, how do the CP's match up to the Arias pistons? Can you post a pic of the bottom showing the thickness of the skirts?
I always felt my Z ran cool egt's, The MAX i've ever seen was about 1400*F which is ~750*C. That cool as hell, which most likely means it's running quite a bit of advance. I think my engine failure may have been from pulling too much timing with the emanage. I don't think the stock pistons could hold up the the extra heat. Forged pistons on the other hand love heat, so that's good.
I'm putting the 9:1 arias pistons in my motor, they better not break. The first thing I said when I saw them was they are probably the least beefy forged piston i've ever seen. Sharif, how do the CP's match up to the Arias pistons? Can you post a pic of the bottom showing the thickness of the skirts?
You might want to consider a skirt and crown coating. I wasn't going to go with a crown coating , but my builder kinda insisted. I will be running WI , so any addtional reflected heat back into the valves should be rapidly quenched and the pistons will run much cooler.