A dynojet dyno would give everyone a better idea what it really puts down like you said... And maybe a pull in 5th for 1:1 Gear Ratio.

 

Nismon,

Congrats on the nice setup.


I asked myself the same question and than looked at the stock graph, it barely hit 220. Which is more in the Mustang dyno ballpark than Dynojet . On Dynojet you would see 230-240whp from manual Z.
If that's the case - Nismon's car is around 485 Dynojet WHP.

 

Bottom line, all that really matters is the before and after power comparison from the identical dyno which can be clearly viewed by all - not what brand of dyno was utilised for testing.

Peter

 

How easy is it to install cams down the line after the APS TT kit is installed? I'll probably need a retune right? Also, with stock internals, should I worry about installing a radiator and oil cooler?

 

with cams? i believe the power... i was 467 on a dynojet at 9 psi on 100% stock engine, his cams will easily and more make up for the .5psi and slightly more aggressive tune my car was running compared to his pulling out timing and what not. If he ran 100 octane and tuned how my car was back then, I bet he could hit around 500 at 10 psi.

 

Without getting into a huge debate on the dyno issue...I think people like to see dynojets numbers...just for comparing the power output of one car to another.

 

Yes I understand that Sharif though the customer who is afterall paying for his turbo installation really wants to know the before and after power of his specific car/engine.

The only way the power measurement can be highly accurate is to conduct the dyno test of the car on the same dyno before and after the turbo installation. The power comparison between different dynos can be at best somewhat misleading, even the exact same brand of dyno does not always read identically.

Peter

 

aaagghhh....I thought I told you I didnt want to get into a debate on the issue!

Of course I am aware that dynojets do not spit out identical numbers. But my point is that if someone wants to compare their power output to another vehicles, than admittedly, dynojet numbers are a more consistent yardstick to use.

For tuning...hands down....load based dynos. This is the reason that most USA magazines request certified DynoJet numbers for their magazine articles...it is a more apples to apples comparison of different cars....not perfect...but better.

 

That's cool Sharif.

I just simply pointing out that what's most important to the customer/owner is the power his car produces before and after the turbo install, after all he's the guy spending the money on his car and is most likely not concerned what power a dyno jet dyno measures in terms of WHP.

Peter

 

OK, it's been a busy week at work, and did this thread grow! Anyhow, a few more notes:

1) Boost - I hooked up a boost guage today and did some runs. The Z is currently running around 8.25psi boost (70% boost pressure now, was dyno'd at 65% boost pressure - see below).

2) A/F - My bad on this. Turns out it was a faulty connection for the fuel pickup (in the pass. glovebox). Noticed a small puddle of raw fuel leaking down in the front of the rear pass. tire. Degreased it, cleaned it out, retightened and teflon taped for extra measure. Unfortunately, do not have extracted data on this (nor do I have torque data at this, time :T), but know that the car is probably running around 11:1 - 10:1 beyond 5k. Ted showed me how the fuel is added and timing can be/is pulled via the Unichip programming.

3) Programming- So....loaded Ted's program for what he runs on his Z. Car's running real good now at 70% boost on 91 octane. Ted showed me the Unichip program in detail on the laptop, what could be modified in relation to pedal input/load, rpm, fuel injector duty, timing, boost % (i.e. 100% = 12psi with APS kit), water pressure, etc. I must say Unichip is pretty thorough, and very easy to use/change up if you know what you're doing. However, the Z does still seem to idle a tad rich, which cannot be adjusted (note to Pete).

4) Cams - Didn't find out specific information on Delong/SP's specs (you can contact them), but I'm sure a JWT would get the job done just fine.

5) Other misc. observations - Factory outside temp guage likes to read about 2-3 degrees higher than typical, as it's been relocated. Car sometimes takes a little bit more time to turn over/fire up (running too rich at cold startup/idle?). Fuel economy increased? (Going to check how many miles on a couple tanks, and see if the factory Z comp is reading accurate/inaccurate).

6) Pictures - Been lagging on this, but looks like the Stoptech's will be here this week. Getting those put on, car dialed in, a Central 20 roadster spoiler, and it should be good to go. Pics to follow...

As for high horsepower breaking stuff, I was typing my opinions, but figured "don't get me started", deleted it, and will save that for another thread, hehehe. I'll just say for any project of this nature, sit down, do the research, set your goals on paper, talk to as many competent people and owners as you can, and figure out what works and doesn't work FOR YOU before committing to the install and tuning. The extra steps taken here go a long way (but I'm sure most of you know that already).

 

Good post my friend - It might pay to have a chat to Ted about this, if the O2 sensors are working correctly (not too slow) the engine will idle perfectly at Lambda 1 (14.7:1 AFR) unless the cam specs are upsetting the idle mixtures.

Peter

 

The ECU should easily compensate at idle for mild cams, or low compression pistons. It might take 100 miles or so for the ECU to make the complete adjustment. If it continues to run rich...I would be checking for vaccum leaks.

Do you have any check engine lights?

 

Over the weekend, yes, the Z did have a few check engine lights. Pulled up as cylinder misfires. I thought it could have initially been due to the fuel pressure variance/leak from the pickup (but nothing correlates those two together off the top of my mind). Nonetheless, that leak could have also contributed to the hard cold starts. Anyhow, we swapped out to 1 step colder NGK's, and narrowed the spark gap a bit today. No check engines on the way home tonight after uploading the new program, and the Z was running real strong, real smooth. The Z also seemed to fire up in a shorter time. Will see again on a cold start tomorrow, and after I put a few miles on this thing.

 

If the engine is running rich AFR at idle (not stoich or richer than 14.7:1 AFR) then it's more likely to be a dodgy O2 sensor, seen this many times before and it's a common problem.

Peter

 

Makes me wish mine would hurry up and get here. Ordered it two weeks ago, but knowing it's 7-8 weeks to arrive, I have to be patient. Stock internals don't seem to be a problem from all I've heard with the APS TT. I'm definitely getting an itchy foot, aaahhhh, I mean finger.

 

7-8 weeks? Where did you order it from? I ordered mine two days ago and am supposed to see it next week.

 

Bought on a group buy, volunteered to wait for the last one to come in, which I didn't mind, as to paying $6990.00 , no tax and shipped free. I can handle that.

 

Hey, whatever happened to the promise of pics for this thread!?

 

Congrats Nismon..... did you see my car there...??? I have a chrome silver track...=) 462whp holey ****..... I pick my car up this sat.... I have everything you have plus test pipes and aps plenum...can't wait to see my dyno #'s...We'll I'll post when i get mine....wanna run them.... =)

 

lol j/k unless you live near Fremont and it wouldnt be a big deal. Man im really wanting a TT kit now. Will it pass smog? Thats my only concern since it seems like SMOG2 and picky visual inspection techs would fail it. Im uneducated on these matters so dont flame plz.