It seems that until like sharif mentioned on another thread, someone that has a tuned FI dynos with the SSV and tunes it to the same settings we will not know what exactly the SSV does for power.

 

Man I dunno. That APS felt REALLY good. But I dunno if Im down to add another 6k to my Vortech. That car that had the pulley and cams was FAST. It felt really close to the APS car. I talked with the owner of the APS car and he said that the G had beaten him a few times. But it was very close.
I had talked with Rob about doing just the pulley. He said that he wouldnt do it and before he did he would do cams. He said the pulley was too big of a risk. But cams installed were 2300.00 I think for now Im going to get the car back togeather and just drive it. Only time will tell what I do next.

 

I see it being risky with upgrading the pulley on your setup as of now but if you do the fuel return line system with bigger injectors when upgrading the pulley you shouldnt have any problem and you would be at 400+whp

 

The cams seem to be a nice modification for some serious power but that is a steep price. Not sure why he is against the pulley as if it was tuned correctly then there should be no issues.
As I do not have the SSV I could go down and get mine tuned and dynoed then someone else can do the tune and dyno with the SSV, that way at least we have some baseline numbers.

 

I am trying. The only change in mine was the intake, I am not overjoyed aobut the prospect of $500-1000 dollars in tuning and issue resolution to get the number though. I almost took the damn thing off. I currently have loaded my last good tune before I put the intake on just because I have toyed with the idea of removing it all together this weekend.

Jeremy

 

lemme repost your graph with my notes....

 

I think this a pretty good show of hp increase. 20hp. I would say don't post results until you have them. i.e. tune your A/F. If you tune to a proper A/F your hp will go even higher. Many people have bolted on a $1k exhaust system and lost hp. This is "untuned" and way richer.
Alan

 

Untuned? I just had it tuned. Im not going to raise my air/fuel. Its safe now. I have the Greddy evo2 and that has a Y pipe in it. So I dout I lost HP. I also have high flow cats and the alphawerks headers. I hope I can get Rob to post on this and give his thoughts.

 

Do you remember how much additional timing "play room" there was, Sharif? I remember Eric saying they could go a few more degrees, but that it would be much safer as it was tuned.

 

The right cams definitely compliment an FI setup well. You want a grind more aggresive than stock, but not as aggresive as an NA set. Also, intake & exhaust duration should be as close to equal as possible. Both the Nismo & JWT serve FI motors well. I'd definitely get cams before buying the SSV. You'll see more gains and the engine will feel more responsive.

 

Hi G352NV,
You said your car had been tuned. The chart I am looking at show that it is off the page rich in two places, with a weird jump in between. I have a G35 Coupe and you could use my A/F chart as a straight edge. Mine could have been tuned to a more straight line but the person tuning it said why bother.

This chart shows 361hp and my best to date is 375hp. I have an automatic. If it were a 6 speed it would be in the low 390's.

AlanL

 

I have noticed a few interesting thingsregarding some of the recent dynos.

I dont think it is accurate to say that if the A/F goes richer, then it must be flowing less. What is consistent with all of the dynos (every dyno has shown increase except for Lemans350z) is that it has shown gains while the A/F has gotten richer.

I believe Lorca from Z1 showed about a 10hp increase, and that was no tuning done between runs, and the A/F was richer by about 1 point. If the manifold flowed less, than it definately wouldnt be showing 10hp gains. I would like to see the car tuned to the previous A/F ratio and then compared with the before run.

This does not however explain the other recent dyno from lemans350z which has the A/F going off the chart rich, and then even when R4 adjustments were maxed out, they couldnt get it back into the previous A/F range.

Speeddreams has installed and tuned 2 different vehicles, so maybe they can show some dynos from the second vehicle.

 

Excuse the question, but what do you use to tune, a piggyback chip, TS reflash, or what?

 

This does not however explain the other recent dyno from lemans350z which has the A/F going off the chart rich, and then even when R4 adjustments were maxed out, they couldnt get it back into the previous A/F range


After a PM with Lemans350Z . He told me [ I believe ] his numbers in the R4 fuel map , were 9's . This is far from maxing out what you can pull fuel out . Mine are in the 7's after 6000rpm . I dont know if his tuner didnt feel comfortable with the R4 program or what . But he for sure can lean it out enough to get it back to where it was.

 

That is interesting, because I was going off the mention that his tuner couldnt adjust it any more.

 

With the R4...a [ 10 ] means no changed to fuel trim and the ECU will control the injector pulse . With the fuel preasure being over 125psi in the fuel rails after 6000rpm , to much fuel is being dumped in . You can adjust the numbers in the R4....down to [ 1 ] or up to [ 20 ]

 

Agree! Mine start at the SS R4/Vortech SC setting of 10.2 and go into the 7's. They vary from in the 10's starting at 3500 rpms / 0 Boost to the 7's at 7000 rpms and 6+ pounds of boost.

 

I am tuning with a Powerhouse Racing MAP ECU. The most important thing is the return fuel system. I do not have an FMU. I am using one Walbro fuel pump. A return fuel system, and 440 injectors. There is a bypass kit you have to use for the fuel pump that is available from Altered Atmosphere. I have a couple of spares to sell.
Timing has been pulled out via Technosquare. I actually have too much timing being pulled out. I could add some back and be safe, and definately pick up some hp. One of these days I will have a little added back.
Alan

 

There was roughly 3 degrees of additional timing that could be added which would take you to the danger threshold for your setup on 93 octane fuel. Personally, I think we all agreed its a safer tune at 421whp and 15 degrees of total advance. With the extra 3 degrees of timing advance, you would easily be in the 435-445whp range. Timing makes an enormous difference in power output.

 

I agree 100% with this. The vast majority of the Vortech kits we sell are the "tuner kits", and then we add the return fuel system, larger injectors, and an emanage setup for the ultimate Vortech setup.