Ok, so I have had my vortech for almost 2,000 miles. It is only 5-6 pounds of boost and has a very rich tune. WOT is at around 9. I have only really gotten on it 3 times so far, since most of the time I drive the car in traffic!

anyways, my car was running fine, nothing sounded, felt different etc. I Have a Wideband gauge as well as boost, fuel, temp and all those were normal. drove my car today and everything was fine, but when I got back in it wouldn't start.... it turned over but wouldn't start, the battery is fine. I let it it sit for a while and then some how I finally get it to start, (I am like 3 blocks from my house) so I drive it but it won't go over 20 MPH!!! IT WOULDN"T LET ME GO OVER 2000 RPMS, then I would shift and it would go a little faster then stop at 200RPM's and WOULD NOT GO OVER IT!!??? and all the gauges ARE NOT WORKING!? do you think something is wrong with the ECU? I checked the oil and it isn't leaking, Just changed it when I installed the vortech. I also checked the fuel, nothing leaking.

I am waiting right now to get it towed, but I just don't understand what could have happened! Any guesses or ideas??

 

Could be a short where you tapped the ECU wires for the Split Second box. Some of the symptoms sound like a blown MAF but the gauges would work if that was it..

 

I have the ECU patch harness.

 

It could still be a short on one of the wires...Something to check....Did you solder all your connections or crimp them?

 

I don't know what they did. I didn't install it. but why would my gauges not work either~!? and the short in the wire, does that cause me not being able to go over 2000RPMs?

 

Yes if one of the engine inputs or a main signal wire shorts it could cause the ECU to do all kinds of crazy stuff. I would honestly just say its the ECU and have it replaced but before you do look at the wiring to ensure its ok. If it is the ECU and the wiring cause it to short out and fail you are going to have the same problem when you put in the next ECU. I hope you know a mod friendly dealer near you....BTW the reason you cant go anywhere is cause your car is in limp mode. This is usually a symptom of a blown MAF....but your gauges dont work so I doubt its that simple..

 

Sounds like an MAF failure.

 

Most likely the plugs are fouled from running so rich. Pull one out and see what color it is.

 

That causes the gauges to stop working?

 

Doesn't ECU limp mode restrict you t to 2k RPM. Seems like someone else that had gotten there AEM filter soaked at a car wash sent the ECU into limp mode and had to get it reset at dealer. Id have to agree with the posts above pointing to the ECU and it;s wiring.

just my .02.

 

Opps missed that last bit about the electronics freaking. Though it was just a no start.

 

ok, so you HAVE to go to a dealer to get it reset????

 

You should be able to disconnect the negative battery terminal for 30mins or so...but depending on the issue it may not fix it.

 

but doing this resets the ECU?

the closest dealer to me is 20 minutes on the highway, and I don't want to have to tow it for nothing.

 

Ok, the 30 minute countdown begins!!!

 

Good luck....keeping my toes, feet, fingers, and teeth crossed.

 

WELP!.... 30 minutes passed and I reconnected the battery...
but still the same thing with the car! not above 2K RPMS AND NOW THE SERVICE ENGINE SOON LIGHT JUST CAME ON ****! ****! ****! I just don't want to have to deal with this right now! dangit!

 

Hey hey, you decided to mod your car

 

K check your hose clamps after the MAF. Who wired up the Split Second Box? Have you checked all the connections?

 

This sounds like much more than limp mode. In limp mode, all the dash lights come on, the car will start, but just wont rev past 2500rpm. In this situation, your gauges dont work, and you have a bunch of other issues.

My guess is faulty wiring, and possibly something with the split second box.