Hi bros im from germany and thinking about going with FI.
I´d like to get the power enterprise kit and also do the technosquare reflash.
~400 rwhp would be very nice
so im searching for some numbers, how many miles did you already go with your stock internals, and manybe how much fuel u need about 60 miles.
1 liter (~1/4 gallon) 98 roz ist round 1.50$ in germany

im also thinking about an oil cooler for doing 250 kilometers an hour.


thanks a lot Peer

 

PM GurgenPB. He'll know more than you could possibly want to know!

 

Wie gehts Peer! (German for "how's it going")

Power Enterprise makes a great kit. It is very well engineered, has outstanding quality and does not require any tuning while providing about 375 hp at the rear wheels with no other modifications. Their are no guarantees when it comes to the stock internals with the combination of a turbo or supercharger, but the PE kit is one of the safest. Some people will argue that other kits such as APS are better, but the PE kit is definitely one of the best.

The technosquare reflash is not needed if this kit is installed on a stock set-up as the PE kit was designed to run with the factory tuning. The reflash could give you additional power gains though and would definitely be a good idea if you have other modifications. Plus it would get rid of the speed limiter for your runs on the autobahn.

You will probably see some decrease in your gas mileage. The PE kit comes with 380 cc injectors and a high capacity fuel pump. So the capability to flow and consume more fuel is their. Your driving habits will really dictate your actual fuel mileage though. It will achieve near factory fuel mileage if driven conservatively, but what fun is that.

You should be alright with your oil temperature, the PE kit has a +1 quart capacity oil pan with cooling fins.

 

I have 3K plus on daily driver, no reflash, aprox 20 mpg, before kit 23+, recommend oil cooler - at least here in Kentucky, these summer days she runs hot, not overheating, but would be better with a oil cooler, I am adding one soon, don't look for any support right now from PE, looks like they are hiring new staff, look at the help wanted on the website. Technosquare is great, although they would have made money from me via a reflash, as I was staying at stock boost they said NO. And they answered questions about the kit although of course it isn't theirs. Personnally, I love the kit.

 

thanks for ya suplys guys!

@gringott - i already read your thread about your way goin FI, thats why this tread is born it seems to work good, but im not sure how long. i got ~16k miles on my z and its gonna be much much more...
i also read the thread about how to go right the first time with FI, now im a little bit scared about windows and stuff like that
i like driving fast in the range to the rev limiter, permanently - some times...
without hitting it for sure.

@gary - danke mir gehts super! (you understand? im doing pretty good)
i think exactly the same way, the japanes people should know their cars in every way. the PE looks like a better quality then the APS kit.
if im realy going with FI the PE gonna be my choise for sure.

another problem in germany is the installation, it´s gonna be expensive, we ain´t got that much tuning shops knowing a 350 pretty good. and if i better should go with forged internals cuz of the daily driver its gonna be realy realy expensive.
May some more guys can post some experience with a stock engine.


thanks for the connection @ theking. im going to contact him, probably tomorra. its 10.00PM in germany right now, time for gettin out of here

 

PM Rayden2001 he has the PE Kit w/ a built motor

 

He has the PE but the motor is still stock, built motor is waiting to be installed once this one blows, at least that's what I heard last.

 

4200 mil kit installed at 300 mil been mad doging it ever since on stock internals. I to love to hit close to the rev limit all the time.

 

at the moment im thinking about the SGP small block. for more safety cuz of the daily driver...

Ultimate short block: $3900 + $1000 core


Block oil passages cleaned
Block redecked
Block Bored and Honed using a Torque Plate
Crank balanced
Crank journals polished
New Main and Rod bearings w/ceramic coating
Pauter Rods
ARP Rod Bolts
CP Pistons .020 over(8.5:1 or 11.5:1)
*Ceramic coating on Pistons
*ARP Main Studs

i think it can easily handle 500 wrhp, hope im not wrong...

 

Valeria: are you running stock boost or with flash? Oil cooler or no?
Purple Peer: that block does sound sweet.

 

stock boost right now no oil cooler. i to ordered the SGP small block been waiting for it for damn 4 months now.

 

hi valeria

what are you going to do with the setup after installing the small block? do i need to change something at the ecu or is a boost manager going to get thinks right? or is your shop going to change the setup?
thanks

 

I would recommend just upgrading your pistons and rods. With your goals of 400whp and reliability for a daily driver, going that route would be adequate. Plus, the parts would cost at least $1,500.00 less then the short-block, shipping would be considerably less and the pistons and rods are readily available. How much would an engine swap cost you compared to replacing your rods and pistons? With the short block your shop would have to transfer all your original parts (alternator, A/C compressor, coil packs, heads, oil pump, water pump, etc.) that are not included with the short block. Does it come with cams, timing chains/pulleys? In terms of hours of labor their would be no savings by going with the short block, it could actually cost you a lot more.

 

i thought about the short block because there is no one in my area that already has modifieded a 350z inside, changing pistons, and rods.
my plan for the moment is getting the PE kit and leave engine stock for a while, maybe end of the year.
then getting the small block, add some cams and a clutch+ flywheel of course. and if im realy going to get the block i wouldn´t say no for ~500 wrhp - "safety".
well but if i can do the 500 "safety" with just changing the pistons and rods i may would got this way, especially when it took about 4 months or more for getting a short block.
please tell me more helpful bout that.

thanks peer

 

i am lerning as i go as i m new to this. what i have been told by the shop was technosquare was selling the software. so thay are going to use the stock ecu.

 

Is there a shop in your area that does engine work on BMW's, Porsche's, Audi's, etc? They should be capable of working on your Z. If you desire more than 400 whp you are going to need a tune. Is their a Unichip tuner near you? All your goals are possible, you just need the right people to help you reach them.

 

Hey Purple_Peer

I almost didn't catch this thread... let me shine some light on this.

PE is a good kit, IMO the second best to APS. But, I believ that you are a little more enthusiastic about the quality then you probably should be. BEtween APS and PE, if completeness and overall finish/quality/tuning are important, it is not even a competition - APS wins hands down. Believe me, I'd love more people to be rolling in PE's, but the VERY fact is that they are just not as good. You will need about another $1500-2000 to make this kit right. Also, it is NOT that they engineered the kit to not require engine management, it's jsut that they slapped on a pressure regulator and called it a day. THis is TERRRIBLE. THe absolute bare minimum,, and that will only make you about ~50% safe if you are going to run 8psi+ (HONEST), is to get a TS reflash. In addition to this, you will need a BOV (about 500 installed), engine management (800-1500 installed/tuned), fuel correction kit by CJ Motorsports ($75 + install), boost controller ($400-600 installed), water coolign lines ($200+), plus not to mention the time/effort/agony that sourcing these parts will cause, and these are just hte ones off the top of my head.

The one thing that is great about PE, is that it's turbos are (from what we think - we haven't seen the garrett data on this from APS) pretty much the absolute best pick one can make for this engine; just look at the compressor diagrams I had put together a while back: http://www.gurgen.com/G35Pics/Compressor%20Maps

IMO, PE has the next to best, if not the best, components. But their overall design I would rate at no more than 7 out of 10 on a good day (with APS being 9+). Listen...you don't need to take my word for it... just look at the facts that i presented. There are very good things about PE, VERY VERY good things, but I just think that APS really has it right, especially in your case, where tuning/expertise availability for these cars (and especially these turbo kits) are scarce. I live in the car enthusiast capital outside of Japan (arguably), and I can't seem to stay out of trouble with these engines. So, IF you have a problem down the line, you will REALLY be in trouble. With the APS TT or ST you can truly be DONE when you finish the install.

HTH, let me know if you need any more help.

P.S. Remember they can really get away without an EM solution in their kits because they get 100 octane at the pump. So, running 25 degrees timign advance at 7.5-8psi is probably OK, but is a freakin' disaster waiting to happen on 98 R (about 93 R+M/2), in my humble opinion.

 

Does anyones sell these or did you have them made and your shop would be willing to make another set?

 

I still haven't had these made.... but that's the price estimate. You have to source all the lines and fittings, which is a pain in the rear... especially the BSP to NPT threads, and metric banjo bolts ... not easily accessible. I finally found a BSP thread plug...to screw into the side of the block. but the rest is on hold.

Gurgen

 

if you make the water lines, i'd suggest you get an aftermarket radiator with bigger cooling fans since it will increase the temp of the water.

i've been driving inthe mojave desert with the PE kit, and with 100+ ambient temps, i'm consitantly getting 200+ *F water temps and 230*F consistant Oil temps with no aftermarket oil cooler other than the finned oil pan.