egt temp ? whats dangerous
Originally Posted by booger
If your probe is 1 inch away from the head ....1450 to 1500 degree's is getting up there . If the probe is lower down the exhaust...dont know
I dunno, mine has seen consistent 15ish not even under boost. Im not too worried, i worry if it varies from the norm. Im gonna see if crawford cats make a difference on egt's as well. Maybe the autometer read a little high as well? We are not all using the same gauge/sensor.
its nice to not see any hotter than 1500-1550... if your air/fuel is in a good area, such as 11:1, then your EGTs can get hotter from conservative ignition timing. If your EGTs are hotter then you like to see and your A/F is good, then you can try a little ignition advance to bring them down... but you also have to keep from passing the threshold and make sure you dont advance so much as to start pinging...
Originally Posted by booger
If your probe is 1 inch away from the head ....1450 to 1500 degree's is getting up there . If the probe is lower down the exhaust...dont know
sharif had mentioned comparing temps with another z w/ the probe mounted in the exhaust manifold (sharif's is in the downpipe, as is mine)
the conclusion was less than 100 degree difference (slightly lower in the downpipe, of course)
I have never seen over 1250 EGT...I assume the cylinder is seeing 1350/1400 at that point
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Originally Posted by phunk
i personally believe that you will see more than 100 degree difference from downpipe to manifold
Originally Posted by phunk
its nice to not see any hotter than 1500-1550... if your air/fuel is in a good area, such as 11:1, then your EGTs can get hotter from conservative ignition timing. If your EGTs are hotter then you like to see and your A/F is good, then you can try a little ignition advance to bring them down... but you also have to keep from passing the threshold and make sure you dont advance so much as to start pinging...
*****, when im at 1500ish my air fuel is 14ish as im just crusing at 3500ish rpm, not really on the throttle. Vaccuum is 15-20 ish. I beleive that im running stock timing at this rpm as im not pulling any timing till 5000 rpm.
timing should be pulled by pressure, not by RPM, as the factory ECU already has a timing curve that factors in RPM... but it does not have proper timing mapping for airflow ranges above standard
Originally Posted by phunk
timing should be pulled by pressure, not by RPM, as the factory ECU already has a timing curve that factors in RPM... but it does not have proper timing mapping for airflow ranges above standard
Should i not be running on stock maps at that rpm(3500ish) and vaccuum then? Im using the stock r4 file, that does not alter timing till 5000 rpm.
If so, its safe to say even without the vortech, my egts would be the same.
If timing should be pulled by pressure, why does vortech do everything rpm cell based?
If i alter the maps, when should i start pulling timing, 3psi?
Originally Posted by freezeg35
*****, when im at 1500ish my air fuel is 14ish as im just crusing at 3500ish rpm, not really on the throttle. Vaccuum is 15-20 ish. I beleive that im running stock timing at this rpm as im not pulling any timing till 5000 rpm.
Freezeg, I am inclinded to believe that your EGT gauge/thermocouple is defective. There is no way your EGT's will be at 1500F when cruising and not really on the throttle. It sounds like you are seeing very little variation in temp, and that sounds like a defective gauge. I have always despised most AutoMeter gauges, becuase I have never seen one that was consistently accurate.
Booger and I did some comparison temping, Phunk, and he has his mounted an inch from the exhuast port, and mine is on the top of the downpipe. The conclusion, albeit slighly unscientific, was that there was minimal temp variation, especially since many of us are running cast manifolds. Our temps were within 50F of each other, and that could simply be reporting error.
To answer the original question, when I see 1400F, I am starting to worry....and I never exceed 1450. Most of the time, my EGT's are consistently in the 1250-1350 range at WOT on the dyno.
If they start getting too hot towards redline, add some more timing back in, assuming your fuel is already safely dialed in.
AL, particularly forged AL, is a has tremendous specific heat, and it takes a LOT of heat to change the temp of AL. This is why altough actual EGT's inside the combustion camber might be closer to 1800F, the temp of the piston top is only about 800-1000F. For reference, AL melts at 1200F.
Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
Freezeg, I am inclinded to believe that your EGT gauge/thermocouple is defective. There is no way your EGT's will be at 1500F when cruising and not really on the throttle. It sounds like you are seeing very little variation in temp, and that sounds like a defective gauge. I have always despised most AutoMeter gauges, becuase I have never seen one that was consistently accurate.
Booger and I did some comparison temping, Phunk, and he has his mounted an inch from the exhuast port, and mine is on the top of the downpipe. The conclusion, albeit slighly unscientific, was that there was minimal temp variation, especially since many of us are running cast manifolds. Our temps were within 50F of each other, and that could simply be reporting error.
To answer the original question, when I see 1400F, I am starting to worry....and I never exceed 1450. Most of the time, my EGT's are consistently in the 1250-1350 range at WOT on the dyno.
If they start getting too hot towards redline, add some more timing back in, assuming your fuel is already safely dialed in.
AL, particularly forged AL, is a has tremendous specific heat, and it takes a LOT of heat to change the temp of AL. This is why altough actual EGT's inside the combustion camber might be closer to 1800F, the temp of the piston top is only about 800-1000F. For reference, AL melts at 1200F.
Booger and I did some comparison temping, Phunk, and he has his mounted an inch from the exhuast port, and mine is on the top of the downpipe. The conclusion, albeit slighly unscientific, was that there was minimal temp variation, especially since many of us are running cast manifolds. Our temps were within 50F of each other, and that could simply be reporting error.
To answer the original question, when I see 1400F, I am starting to worry....and I never exceed 1450. Most of the time, my EGT's are consistently in the 1250-1350 range at WOT on the dyno.
If they start getting too hot towards redline, add some more timing back in, assuming your fuel is already safely dialed in.
AL, particularly forged AL, is a has tremendous specific heat, and it takes a LOT of heat to change the temp of AL. This is why altough actual EGT's inside the combustion camber might be closer to 1800F, the temp of the piston top is only about 800-1000F. For reference, AL melts at 1200F.
Sharif, i do see variance, when at idle its about 1000. I thought it might be the autometer gauge. Thanks.
Originally Posted by freezeg35
FYI its only in the upper 3500-4000k cruise. not that i cruise like that for a long period of time.
1500F is too high for just about anything...so I am still thinking the gauge is bad.
Try the Defi EGT gauges....$175 and very accurate. We've sold them to about 20 customers and never had one complaint.
Originally Posted by ccartwright
Alright, so what's the final word on the best location to mount the sensor?
If the motor is out of the car, the best place is definately to tap it into the exhaust manifold, about 1 inch away from the flange. I would pick the passenger side rear cylinder, as there is some speculation that this cylinder runs hottest.
When the motor is inside the car, it becomes very challenging to tap the manifold....doable...but you have to manuevery very carefully, and clear out a bunch of obstructions. There is also a chance that some metal shavings will be injested byt the turbo. So we recommend installing it on the downpipe...as close to the turbo as possible, if the motor is inside the car.